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CS17 Hardware from B&B


PinoyPiper
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Hi guys,

Just got the hardware from Carla for my CS17. However, I'm not clear on where some of them go. My rigging diagram is from 2006, is there a more updated version of this?

I was supposed to attach a spreadsheet of the list of hardware and where I think they go, and hopefully some of you who know can help fill out, but apparently i'm not allowed to that on this forum. but i'm attaching a picture of the spreadsheet instead.

Hope you guys can help. I tried to email Graham and Carla but I think they're on vacation as I haven't been able to get a reply.

Cheers/Roy

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Roy,

Graham is out of town at the wooden boat school. Carla is quite busy. I can help some. I know that hardware prices fluctuate and that ronstan is "in" right now. Some of the lashing blocks can look a little weird but they are all real good stuff.

-The quick release cleat could go on the CB or the rudder. On our 20 we have it on the rudder and the CB has a bungee system and manual release. For groundings, our uphaul line for the CB has an old lawnmower handle on it "pull to start" get it. When your going upwind and the CB hits, if the release cleat is on the line and it trips, the board can just go straight up all the way and you lose your board in an instant. Thats why we preferred it on the rudder.

-2 upright micro blocks should go at the top of the masts for the halyards. Make sure you thru bolt em.

-The ronstan lashing blocks/single blocks could be for downhauls (if you use a 2:1 downhaul which I would.

-You need 2 ss S hooks for the downhauls. Hook through the grommets. Third is a spare perhaps.

-Orbit single blocks for clew end of sprits I assume. Attach to end of sprit just fwd of the sprit "pin" that goes through the clew. Must be attached to the sprit itself to facilitate reefing. We leave our sheet blocks attached to the sprits all the time. You can hang them on a line about 18 inches long or so which reduces the length of the sheet needed and weight of line in light air makes a difference getting the sail out and dragging lines in the water. We just drilled a 3/16 hole vertically through the sprit and tied the line through with a nice stopper on one end and the block at the other.

-Bullseyes, you need another one on the foredeck for the main halyard. Also I think you need blocks at the base of the main mast for running those 3 lines back (halyard, snotter, downhaul). Or just use the bullseyes at the base of the mast but I dont think I would do that.

-Lateral cleats for main and mizzen sheet. I think you need another pair of these. Alternatively, the 2 medium cam cleats are for the mizzen sheet. Matter of preference, the mizzen is adjusted less usually. If you have the aft deck, the cam cleats can just sit on the edge of it with sheets leads into the cockpit. Some consider that cleaner than the laterals for the mizzen.

-The 30mm standup block has me stumped. Could be used for the main halyard at the base of the mast. We have 3 stand up blocks at the base of the mast on the 20 for halyard, snotter and downhaul but the 17 has less line loading and might not need them? what do other 17 owners have. Mine has blocks.

-Ahh, the orbit cheek blocks are definitely for the ends of the sprit for the snotter. thru bolt to end of sprit with sheave facing the mast and then the becket blocks attach to the mast. This gives 2:1 on the snotters. On the 20 we riveted an eyestrap on either side of the mast at the snotter attachment point and connected them with a short length of line around the front of the mast. It acts like a "bail" and then the becket block attaches to that line which allows it to rotate around when the sail is let far out. Also keeps the eyestraps rivets in shear. I can send pic if you need.

-RF30111 becket blocks for the snotter for sure. you need those.

hope some of that is usefull

-Alan

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Roy,

Graham is out of town at the wooden boat school. Carla is quite busy. I can help some. I know that hardware prices fluctuate and that ronstan is "in" right now. Some of the lashing blocks can look a little weird but they are all real good stuff.

-Alan

I have the same problem, and when Carla gave me the same quote was not able to match anything to plans for price comparison with port supply. Unfortunately in the quote there are no serial / item numbers which would have made locating used hardware etc a lot easier.

My hardware should be arriving today.

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The CS20 is probably a bit different, and there are also probably a few "customized" variations in my rigging setup; however, I put a mostly complete overview of my basic rigging arrangement here:

http://www.roguepaddler.com/cs20q.htm

Hope that helps. It's a bit incomplete, but covers most of the basics.

I'll say this about the shipping industry, it's going downhill!!

Still no parts that where shipped last Mon & Tue on two day shipping Fed Ex... Was waiting for motor mount over nighted from UPS, it had not arrived in two weeks, so store sent second one for free overnight.. This was last Thursday.

I've noticed in sending stuff to relatives etc mail no matter what service you use is getting flaky on delivery times, dates.

So still waiting for parts.. Headed to West Marine tomorrow and will use Port Supply to get adjustable motor mount.

- Edward

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Thanks for the replies Alan and Wes.

Your posts and website helped a great deal. Was also finally able to get a reply from Graham thru Carla, she attached a document that gives the location for each bit and that helped too. I've updated the spreadsheet with Carla's inputs and everything has a place now. except for the RF25109, which I think is a substitute for RF20141, however I'm not so sure as one is a stand up block and the other is a lashing block.

Carla also said that she'll try to send an updated diagram from Graham's computer. which I hope will help a lot more as though I know now where they go, i still can't imagine how and and where some of them are installed. this is not my first B&B boat, installing the hardware on the spindrift I built a few years back was very straight forward.

Cheers/Roy

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I'll say this about the shipping industry, it's going downhill!!

Still no parts that where shipped last Mon & Tue on two day shipping Fed Ex... Was waiting for motor mount over nighted from UPS, it had not arrived in two weeks, so store sent second one for free overnight.. This was last Thursday.

I've noticed in sending stuff to relatives etc mail no matter what service you use is getting flaky on delivery times, dates.

So still waiting for parts.. Headed to West Marine tomorrow and will use Port Supply to get adjustable motor mount.

- Edward

Wow. Not my experience. Living in East BugSplat, NC I have to internet order practically everything. "Free shipping" from Amazon can be a tad draggy. Chesapeake Light Craft is a bit flaky, and their website needs an overhaul, but Sailrite, Duckworks, and a host of others get the job done promptly. When I ship stuff I use USPS, usually flat rate box. So far the USPS has scored 100%. Oh yeah, Aircraft Spruce located in your home state ships quick.

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update: looked through the CS17 CD that came with my plans... the folder that helped most wasn't the one titled "rigging details" but the one titled "CS15"! It had pictures of every bit of rigging, including the aft end of the sprits... which I didn't understand until now... still don't know where the lashing block goes though unsure.gif

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Quote from above poster: "Chesapeake Light Craft is a bit flaky, and their website needs an overhaul, but Sailrite, Duckworks, and a host of others get the job done promptly."

I have also had good luck with Sailrite and Duckworks, but have never had a problem with Chesapeake Light Craft. I have ordered three boat kits from them and they all came on the dates promised and packaged very nicely. I have always been impressed with how they put the customer first, even when a question I have does not pertain to a boat in their fleet. I have also ordered sundry supplies from them with the same great service. :)

Kyle

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  • 2 weeks later...

Quote from above poster: "Chesapeake Light Craft is a bit flaky, and their website needs an overhaul, but Sailrite, Duckworks, and a host of others get the job done promptly."

I have also had good luck with Sailrite and Duckworks, but have never had a problem with Chesapeake Light Craft. I have ordered three boat kits from them and they all came on the dates promised and packaged very nicely. I have always been impressed with how they put the customer first, even when a question I have does not pertain to a boat in their fleet. I have also ordered sundry supplies from them with the same great service. :)

Kyle

Still waiting on:

8 Harken Eyestraps - Har073

1 CL257 Quick Release Cam Cleat

1 Orbital Stand Up Block RF45140

2 Ronstan cleat, composite fiber medium RF5011

2 Cam Fairlead medium RF5015

1 Ronstan Orbit cheek block RF35151

2 Orbit single loop top becket block RF35111

Supposedly will be here Saturday.... I hope.. I'm about to jury rig some stuff and go sailing.. West Marine has one or two things like the Quick Release Cam Cleat and Harken Eye-straps but that's about it.

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The rigging plan I have shows the clamcleats for the sheets mounted to the inside of the coaming. Actually, on the rigging plan sheet, there is also piece of hardware shown on the side deck with a callout marked CL206/207, but I think that one is mislabeled as it looks like the oarlock socket plate to me.

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This should help. I mounted mine almost level as the bullseye was further forward. this pic was from a CS15. it's for the main sheet. the mizzen sheet uses cam cleats, mounted on the rear deck, though on the diagram I have it shows another pair of cl206/7 for the mizzen sheet.

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