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Spindrift 11N kit progress: Question and ...


BARRYFOY

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After on-again, off-again progress, I had finished fitting and installing the foredeck/mast collar/front bulkhead, taping and and sanding the inside seams, and trimming and shaping the gunwales. The boat is now tight and rigid, and still fair. I then flipped the boat, and trimmed and fared all of the edges, ready for taping. I decided that rather than try and hollow the keel to match the ridge of the bottom, I would flatten the ridge, as per Graham's suggested alternative. I found I had to remove very little wood to get a 3/4" wide flat strip; it took about 5 minutes with a plane. I frequently balanced a ruler across the ridge to check its flatness.

This brings up a Question: Graham's instruction specify bedding the keel with epoxy, which I plan to do. BUT...I have had luck with other boats in attaching spray rails and a sacrificial keel using screws and a good polysulfide (Lifeseal, I think it was) bedding compound. My thinking is that it would make replacing the keel (if it becomes so chewed up) a bit easier. Would there be any advantages in using such a compound rather than epoxy? A friend who has built many boats also suggested 3M 5200 sealant, but since that sets up hard, I don't see much advantage over epoxy.

Now the possible Problem: One (only) of the bottom panels is bowed inwards longitudinally, centered on where the scarf joint is, by a maximum of 1/4" (see attached photos.) I have not yet made and installed the stern quarter seats. Should I make the effort of clamp the panel flat before fitting the seat on that side? It seems that the seat would help the bottom maintain whatever shape the it has, once they are glued into place on the bottom panel. Is this worth worrying about? If I do level that panel, should I do it before taping the outside seams? I find I can fairly easily push the bowed section flat by hand.

Thanks!

Barrypost-1518-0-71677600-1306000156_thumb.jpg

post-1518-0-80878400-1306000184_thumb.jpg

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This brings up a Question: Graham's instruction specify bedding the keel with epoxy, which I plan to do. BUT...I have had luck with other boats in attaching spray rails and a sacrificial keel using screws and a good polysulfide (Lifeseal, I think it was) bedding compound.

Lifeseal is silicone, it is pure evil. Lifecaulk is the polysulfide. What are you going to screw into? The bite you get from screwing into 6 mm plywood won't hold and the tensile strength of polysulfide is minimal. Screwing through the plywood into the keel won't be much better. I used some temporary screws through the plywood to snug the keel to the hull, but epoxy is what holds it on.

My thinking is that it would make replacing the keel (if it becomes so chewed up) a bit easier. Would there be any advantages in using such a compound rather than epoxy?

I put a bronze half round strip the entire length of the keel. I doubt it will ever need to be replaced. If it ever does get chewed up I can plane it down to a flat surface and laminate back what ever was damaged.

A friend who has built many boats also suggested 3M 5200 sealant, but since that sets up hard, I don't see much advantage over epoxy.

I don't see any advantages over epoxy, just disadvantages. 5200 is one of the most over used products in the marine world. About all I like it for is bedding external ballast keels on fiberglass boats and attaching cleats to the interior of fiberglass boats for attaching cabinets and such to.

Now the possible Problem: One (only) of the bottom panels is bowed inwards longitudinally, centered on where the scarf joint is, by a maximum of 1/4" (see attached photos.) I have not yet made and installed the stern quarter seats. Should I make the effort of clamp the panel flat before fitting the seat on that side? It seems that the seat would help the bottom maintain whatever shape the it has, once they are glued into place on the bottom panel. Is this worth worrying about? If I do level that panel, should I do it before taping the outside seams? I find I can fairly easily push the bowed section flat by hand.

It would drive me crazy knowing I did not try to true the plywood up. I would try to do it before any taping as each step like that makes the hull more rigid in what ever shape it is in at the time it is done.

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Dave and Graham--

Thanks for your replies! I had pretty well figured the consensus would be be flatten the panel before taping; it was easily done by placing a prop to bear up against a board placed across the inside of the panel.

Barry

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Barry...I'm building an 11N and I've been enjoying your work. I'm about to go 3D. Any tips you want to share? I see you have glassed the seams and I'm nervous about that step. It's my first S & G boat and I'm a little un-nerved by this method.

take Care,

Steve

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Barry...I'm building an 11N and I've been enjoying your work. I'm about to go 3D. Any tips you want to share? I see you have glassed the seams and I'm nervous about that step. It's my first S & G boat and I'm a little un-nerved by this method.

take Care,

Steve

Start small, work clean, it's not rocket science. I confidently predict that you will do fine. If there is one thing that I have learned in making a boat is that I worry too much and its rarely the bit that I have agonized over that causes me the most difficulty.

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