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Canoe Handling


aprophet

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As of now I have one of the outboard / trolling motor brackets. right now both ends are pointed as the canoe is fiberglass/polyester it would be fairly easy to cut one end and install a transom I was wandering if the transom had to be a certain size in relation to the LOA I may try a small pivoting leeboard and see what if any effect that has. the trim is pretty close until I apply power then not so bad . thanks

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As you have discovered, the traditional canoe shape is far from ideally suited for an outboard.

Cutting it off and adding a transom will get the kicker back on the center line, which is a good thing.  A small outboard, mounted as you have it, can result in an unintended bath with a split-second's inattention.  DAMHIKT

I assume that the stern of your canoe is squatting unacceptably under power and causing your problem.  If so, the solution is to move the weight in the canoe forward to get more of the hull in the water.  This could be a tiller extension and moving yourself forward, or a passenger seated well forward, or cargo well forward.

I would not expect a leeboard to help with steering.

Wayne

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First of all, you need a proper outboard motor bracket for a canoe. You also need to have the canoe properly trimmed. If you have no gear to weigh down the bow then the motor must be placed in back of the bow seat and you will sit or kneel from the bow seat.

If the canoe has a keel there will be no problem steering. I have been using canoes with 2 hp for years on many different canoes. Under 16' is not really the best canoe. A real tripping canoe 17 and up will really perform well.

Having said that my current canoe is a 16' Chestnut Crusier wood canvas, no keel. I have used it for 10 day trips and have always carried my Yamaha 2 hp along.

PS: The beam on my canoe is only 33" and I kneel all the time. That way you can get more power on your paddle stroke and more stability with the outboard.

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