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Core Sound 20 #130


Twetmore

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Hello everyone!

My name is Tom and I started the construction of my CS20 #130 at the beginning of October this year (2009).  I have never really been into sailing but I just graduated from college last December and started my new job and thought that it would be a cool project.  I also didn't think that I would ever be able to find the time to do it again or the resources.  My Dad is a carpenter so I have all the tools and he also has a two story garage with plenty of room upstairs to work.  I am from the Chicagoland area so if anyone in the area has a boat that I could look at to reference and maybe take some pictures I would really appreciate it.

I have been looking at everyone's posts since July and they have all been very helpful.  I have a bunch of pictures that I would like to post but cannot figure out how to attach them and want to get back out there building.  I will have to work on this.

I do have one question though.  I have the forward and center bulkheads installed and have tightened the wires and everything seems to be fitting very well, everything except the bottom of the forward bulkhead.  I think I may have jumped the gun a little bit when I started to tighten wires instead of installing the forward bulkhead first.  The bottom of the forward bulkhead is about 3/4" off of the bottom of the boat.  I have measured it several times trying to figure out what my mistake may have been but cannot figure it out.  It seems to be correct per the drawings.

Has anyone run into this problem before?  I think if I pull too hard on the wires they will just pull through the plywood because the centerline is binding.  I was thinking about removing some wires at the centerline and trying to shave down where the two bottom sheets touch so that it has more ability to come up.  The problem is that I layed out all of my sheets and then corrected them from the mylar full size prints that I ordered, so I think they should be correct.  I am worried taking more wood out of the bottom could put a weird curve in my hull.

I would appreciate any input anyone has.

Thank you,

Tom

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I have been looking through the old forum threads quite a bit and have seen this mentioned a few times. People have used blocks to pull the hull up to the bulkhead, run saws along the centerline to modify how the bottom panels meet, etc., but the recurring theme seems to be to check the hull lines and make sure they're fair first, before doing anything forceful or you may introduce unfair lines into the hull.

In a pulling boat that I did using stitch and glue, the sliding seat frame's fore and aft pieces weren't as Vee'd as the bottom of the boat for some reason. Not wanting to see a lump of thickened epoxy in the bottom of the clear-finished interior, I decided to "hide the gap" and sandwiched the 2 frame pieces between two smaller pieces of ply that had the bottom's shape transcribed. The hull remained fair and the sandwich peices just looked like a gusset between the seat frame and the hull, then I filleted.

Look through some of the other CS20 build threads and you'll also see what others did...some threads go back a few years so you have to do some digging.

Good luck.

pat.

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:lol: Hey and Welcome to the crews of the CS-20 boats and the best design team and support you'll ever find.  We are building CS20-104 and just turned the boat over to sand and fair out and glass the seams.  I had the very same problem and never did figure it out, so I improvised and installed fitted plates inside the bow section, mudded them in with thickened epoxy and glassed.  Added thickened epoxy on the cockpit side, sanded smooth and doubled glassed the lower seam of the bulkhead and it looks beautiful.  This is probably NOT the right approach but I was loosing time and getting frustrated.  After turning over, the hull lines look VERY GOOD and I cannot tell that there is a problem with the hull shape it looks really good.  I cut all per the provided pattern prior to wiring together, someone said I should have cut the forward bulkhead to the hull shape after stitching together and installing the temp bulkhead.  Not the path I took and I did not want to redo not knowing how limited I might be on the plywood.  Glad I did not as we are going to use up almost all of the 1/4 inch plywood with NOT very much scrap in the leftovers that would allow me to have redone the forward bulkhead.  Call Graham and talk to him, he's super and available.

Jim

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I had the same problem on my CS20. I was not in a hurry so I tried several fixes before I found what worked for me. I installed a double set of wires from the bulkhead down between the hull panels and around the cradle cross member. I tighten these with a screwdriver as much as I figured I could get by with. I let this set for a day and retighten the wires. Over several days I tighten the wires and the bulkhead came down into position. I believe that the hull sides relaxed allowing the bulkhead to move down into place. I checked and could not detect a problem with the hull side panels after the bulkhead was in place. May not be the best fix, but it worked for me.

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It is interesting that you said that you tied the forward bulkhead through the hull down to the cradle, I never thought about that at all.  The most interesting point is that my cradles on the forward section never seemed to fit quite correctly, and that may well have been the problem and I did not recognize the mistake. Who could have known?  I think that you have the problem identified.  I made the cradles to fit the curves of the forward bulkhead material and did not take into account the thickness of the hull materials very well.  Great input and thanks for the re-think on my part.  Little things lead to big problems, Wish I'd seen this differential before, but I think we'll be okay, the hull looks great but may find out different when I fair it out.

Jim

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks for your help.  I have another quick question that I could not find an answer for looking in previous posts.  I got a little too far ahead of myself tonight in apply my fillets.  If this epoxy sets will I be able to get the wires out later with a soldering iron?  Considering that I turned the heater off in the garage and it is 6 degrees here in Chicago I am certain that the curing process will almost stop in about 20 minutes.

I hope I can get them out tomorrow after work but please let me know.

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I'm sure that you won't have a problem. Whichever 6 degrees (F or C) you are talking about will mean the epoxy will likely be still quite green/soft tomorrow. If not a soldering iron will always work if you wait long enough. Shorting the wires with a 12 V battery also works...very quickly... but leaves a little burn mark so if you plan on bright finish is probably best avoided.

Cheers

Peter HK

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A variant on "shorting the wires with a 12v battery":  If using a soldering gun,  you can remove the 2-pronged heating element and insert instead the two ends of the wire so that you let the wire play the role of heating element.  Squeeze the trigger to get a red-hot wire.  If you don't need to "nuke it" red hot,  you can just hold a hot soldering iron against one end of the wire as you and Peter mentioned.

--Paul 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for the help!  The wires pulled out really easy with a soldering iron the next day.  I now have all of the interior filleted and am going to finish glassing it all tonight.

I am trying to think ahead and want to make the mast tubes so that I am ready for the next step.  I have decided to make wooden masts and have found some really nice douglas fir at the local lumber yard.  I have read through several posts and have found a lot of different information about birdsmouth construction.

I do have a couple of questions though.

1.  What has everyone found to be the optimal length for the main and mizzen masts on their CS20's?  I am planning on using the sail track method.  I feel that I might want it a little longer so that the spirits clear people who will be sitting on the boat but don't want to put too much pressure on the masts.

2.  Do I need to put blocking in the mast to attach hardware or the track?  I see in the post "Making Sawdust" that Charlie and Norman used "doublers" but I am not really sure what these were for.

3.  Finally, I wanted to clarify what I understood from the plans and previous posts.  The taper should start from 6' up from the bottom of the mast and continue to the top.  Please correct me if I am wrong.

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Tom,

  You should have the specs for a birdsmouth mast from Graham. The stave thickness is plenty for the track. I put a filler block or "doubler" at the base, about six inches. One at the pivot point, another at the snotter attachment, and one at the top. My masts are in tabernacles. They pivot on a stainless carriage bolt. I wanted strength in the mast at those points. My snotter hardware needed larger screws that the track, so I put extra material there. Hope that helps.

Norm

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Paul,

Thanks for the help, those posts were very helpful.  I am thinking I will build the masts a little taller then called for in the plans, somewhere between 21-22'.  I am going to do some more research before I start but I bought some really amazing 2x10x32' and 2x8x26' douglas fir from a local lumber yard and need to cut it to the correct length so I can get it in the shop and dry it out.  I just don't want to cut it too short and waste more wood then I have too.  I will let everyone know what I finally decide on.

Thanks again,

Tom

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All of us would love to see your pic's. If you click on the "home" button, next to the "blogs" button above your profile pic, there is a good how to section on posting pic's. I use the free Picassa download, real user friendly. You can also do a search, lot's of threads on it also Good luck, hope this helps. :lol:

Jeff, aka Diddle Dally

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Otto,

I ended up going through Chesapeake Light Craft.  I can't remember the exact pricing information but I priced out several options with shipping and taxes and found that they were the best price for the best wood, they sell Lloyd's Certified.  It was also really easy to use them and they delivered it to my house.  I could have done the commercial shipping to a warehouse but it would have saved me $20 and would have cost me about an hour of time.  Just to clarify I went with Okoume.

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Jeff,

Here are some pictures.  Just FYI, the one that you see with the stringer and foam on the sides is because I used Gorilla glue to attach it.  At the time I had total confidence in it because of its strength properties and it is waterproof but I decided to epoxy fillet the underside of the stringers just in case.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I am installing the 4 bottom stringers aft of the forward bulkhead.  The outer stringer is missing the bottom of the boat by about 1/4".  However, I was able to find some good posts about this and it looks like I should scribe this stringer to the bottom.

http://www.messing-about.com/forums/index.php?topic=4549.0

http://www.messing-about.com/forums/index.php?topic=6210.0

Thanks for the help!

Next, I am planning on sanding the bottom to get all pencil lines off so I can clear finish it, epoxy the bottom, install the seats, and forward mast step.

I should have some more photos to post soon for everyone to see where I am.

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Also, what is everyone making their deck beams out of?  I am taking douglas fir 2x6, ripping it to create a 3/4"x6" board and then scribing it.  I wanted to use douglas fir porch flooring but they don't make it larger then 4" (including tung and grove) unless I order it specially.

I would appreaciate any input.

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