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Rescue Minor Under Construction


Steve Day
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Holes were drilled thru each of the frames to allow water to pass right after we turned the boat over. All of the holes are epoxied to protect the wood.

Water will also drain from the stern area forward when boat is at rest and level. However, if we are nose up, the water will collect back there if it is deposited there (like the exhaust leak we had yesterday).

Bilge pump easily handled any of the water in the boat.

Steve

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Steve:

Regarding the prop. I did a fast scan through the build about the final prop selection. You indicated that a 10 x 14 was your choice and had been vetted by folks at prop shops and other builders. I haven't been able to find an indication if that was indeed what you have on the boat. My curiosity has to do with the speed you have been seeing while under way. Does the tach indicate you are running at or near the 3000rpm level you had estimated after you had adjusted the throttle stop?

Thanks:

Paul

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Unfortunately, there is no tach on the boat. The alternator that came with the engine does not have a lug for the tach connection. We are working through how we are going to get an idea of how fast the engine is turning, but by ear, I don't think we are getting the 3000 RPM. Yes, we did end up with a 10 x 14 prop, but without the RPM's of the engine/shaft we don't know for sure where we are.

I went out today and ran the boat for a couple of hours. I am now able to get a little better than 13 knots with full throttle and I can ease it a bit to "cruise" at 11 to 11.5 knots. It seems to be running very well, but we don't know what RPM's we are turning. There is a vibration I don't like and I think the solution is a pillow block type bearing just forward of the shaft seal.

Wally and I will be working with the boat tomorrow morning to finish up some of the details.

Steve

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Tachs on gasoline engines are relatively easy. However, as PAR noted, this is a diesel. If we get the correct alternator, we can use the tachometer that is in the instrument cluster. As long as it is not too expensive, that is the way we will go.

I took the boat out with some friends along for "ballast" and the ride. We had a great time and the boat performed well. We're gradually getting the "bugs" out of the boat.

Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...

I was able to get out to the barn yesterday to check in on the Gar Wood project (see other post) and install some fender hangers and put catches on the doors to the forward storage compartment (under the foredeck).

We are continuing to work out what few bugs we have while using the boat. Wally is planning to take the boat to Mound Island in the delta on Saturday. Should be a nice trip.

I'll send pictures of the fender hangers as soon as I get some.

Steve

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Hey Steve, the fun is really in the tweaking too, yet another part of building any boat. You guys will get the boat worked out since you have all winter to do so before the springtime boating season. You have a big advantage on most since you do not need to winterize the boat like some others you know. :lol:

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You are so right Mike. We forget how good we have it down here. While we're enjoying a Christmas week parade, on our gaudily decorated boat, cruising past the crowds on the docks, most of the country has their pride and joy(s) in a barn, on stands or other wise prepped for the hard water months.

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Steve,

I was reading William Atkins original spec for the boat and noticed the engine sizing etc. I am interested to know why you chose a 2:1 reduction gearbox. Atkins uses a straight through drive (1:1) 2000 rpm, 25 HP. Even though his prop was 10 x 12, he suggest a top speed of 15 - 16 knots. Have you been able to determine if the engine is able to achieve 3000 rpm at full throttle?

Great to see the boat on the water. Give the rest of us inspiration to get a move on with our own projects.

Eric from Oz

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Y'know, when you buy an engine off E-Bay, you get what you get. The 2:1 ration was verified Monday.

We are not sure if we are getting 3000 RPM, but it sounds like it. We are presently looking into a way to verify the RPM (at a reasonable price).

It is beginning to look like we need more pitch in the prop, as it does not appear to be loading the engine down in the present configuration.

More to come as we sort this out. Meanwhile, we are enjoying the boat as we can.

Steve

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I have a hand held that does just what Oyster is saying. You also still can find and employ a mechanical tach, some literally are the type you press against the crank. I also have a really old one of these, in a nice wooden case with several different rubber "tips". It was made in 1909 and was a gift from a client years ago, who's father owned it and it had sat for years. He figured I'd use it.

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After checking the engine with the new tach, we found that it was turning about 3800 rpm unloaded. We have adjusted the throttle downward to bring it more in line with specifications.

After a lot of noodling, Wally and I decided we would try a prop with more pitch. Our calculations indicate we should have 17" of pitch rather than the existing 14". Great fun tweaking things. Almost as much as building it.

More to come,

Steve

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