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Princess Sharpie 28


PeterP

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  • 3 months later...

Here are three pictures to get everyone up to speed with my progress- which has not been that spectacular lately. The coach roof turned to be a major pain - all beams were laminated and almost all were cut in when I realized things were not lining up so well. So I went back and shaved them and shimmed them. Push on this and pull on that. Tweak this down and something else would creep up. So I ended up tearing out about six biggest offenders and re-did the works. Very frustrating. But all that is behind us and other building adventures beckon. Started on the cockpit framing - trying to find the optimal lay out for the LP tank, diesel tank and batteries. Spending a lot of time on line looking up products, prices, sizes etc. PeterP

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Peter.......looking very good. A few questions about the cabin structure.

What is the schedule of the deck beam laminations? They look to be 3/4" or 1" square? I seem to recall on the Princess 26, the plans called for 1 x 2 deck beams, but I don't think those showed a foam core as you have done. My current 17 foot glass boat has a 1/2" balsa core coach roof, and that sandwich is pretty strong, but those are squares of balsa. With those, there is a lot of sheer strength. Don't know if it works the same way with the blue foam (structural) or if that is simply for insulation of the roof. What liner is used under the deck beams inside the cabin?

Are those deck beams a constant radius (segments of a circle) or more oval in shape?

Are you going to cap the corner posts with something finished bright? I presume an eyebrow to match to frame the coach roof?

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Howard, good to hear from you . Still exploring the big boat I see. To answer your questions: beams are 3/4" x 1" wide on 9" centers. The roof consists of 1/4" plywood skins top and bottom with blueboard core. Even without the top skin the roof is amazingly stiff - I already crawled all over the sections that are done - when putting in the foam. Graham swears by it and I am beginning to see why. I never felt the blueboard is anything like balsa in mechanical properties but water will not touch it and at 12 bucks a 4x9 sheet it has a lot going for it. The roof camber is basically elliptical with a touch more crown to give my six-two a bit of a breathing room without the whole thing looking like a Conestoga wagon. I really appreciate the smooth ceiling skin - no exposed beams to crack your head on. The corner posts get cut off flush with the top roof skin glued over - to protect the end grain. Pretty much the whole boat will be glassed over apart from few bits and pieces - yes eyebrows, rub rail and few other touches. PeterP

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  • 2 months later...

I made some progress on the cockpit. Namely, figured out the propane locker and sized, bought and placed the diesel tank. As much as I like to build stuff so it can be accessed/ worked on the diesel tank is just a tad too big to come out of the locker. The seat gutters make the opening 1/2" too tight. It is movable inside the cavity but will not come out. Hopefully, it will last a lifetime. The propane box will be air- tight with a drain overboard. The s/board shot shows my battery box. Sized for two group 27 gell batteries plus a little bitty 35AH job to start the Kubota. It is designed to slide directly under the seat opening to make it easier to replace the batteries when necessary. The last shot shows the cockpit taking shape nicely. Stay cool - PeterP

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Lots of details in a boat that big, but seems you are on top of them.

The propane box will be air- tight with a drain overboard.

This is an important detail. Many do not realize that even at atmospheric pressure propane is heavier than air and ventilation in the top of the storage space does nothing to dissipate escaped fumes. It is also an ABYC and Coast Guard standard to do as you have described.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I put up the last interior panel - coach roof. Hopefully, I have not left out anything bigger than the companionway opening. The template for it reminded me of old Polynesian "maps" they used to make out of sticks and twine for their voyages. How appropriate - I thought. Next, I prototyped a Warner/Herreshoff portlight. I think this is going to be great. I scored an excellent deal on some 3/8" lexan so the cost will be mind blowingly low. I can knock eight of them out for about 100 bucks ( yes one hundred) - versus $1400 to $1800 for marine store portlights. Graham told me he saw them once on an ocean going 50 footer. The question is : were they leaving or coming back. Big difference and I need to ask him that next time I see him. PeterP

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They have been around for eons - Winthrop Warner, Francis Herreshoff vintage. Chuck put them in his Princes recently. Why they never took of -who knows - too cheap to be "marine"? I love the fact that I can make and repair them myself. And they are VERY inexpensive to make. How well they work remains to be seen. PeterP

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David, I think about that one a lot. I'll have something up in time. That and the fact that my companionway is offset way to s/board. If that boat gets knocked down the wrong way my whole day could be a giant mess. (or the rest of my life). PeterP

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The curvature over 5x12" is negligible. I walked around and pressed the test 5x12 against the cabin side - it looked real tight in all the places where my 'holes need to go. I don't have a gasket lined up yet but there is a slew of RV gaskets out there that will work - I am sure. PeterP

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I've always admired that portlight design. You can leave them open while you're away. During rain, when most portlights have to be closed just when you need the ventilation, you'll get a nice breeze through the cabin. You could easily frame some screens to drop in against the exterior too. A simple screen hook could be used for rough passages to ensure they stay in place..

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Like David says I need some kind of toggle - I'm sorta toying with a thumbscrew something at the moment - Garry what was your suggestion -screen hook just for the screens or do you have an idea for something that will hold the Lexan in place more securely?

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I'd probably epoxy a small block on the back of the removable cover, of the same thickness as the horizontal stringer across the bottom of the cutout. Then I'd install a single locking hasp across the seam between that block and the horizontal stringer. That would hold the wedge down (pulling it tighter into place), but would be very quick and easy to remove. When you flip it around for ventilation, the block and the upper part of the hasp would be visible to the outside, but that's not a big deal.

I'd use locking hasps because then you can put a piece of wooden dowel, a large diameter shop twist-tie, or a padlock through it to prevent the hasp from wiggling open. That's what we do with our seat hatches in our CS20. We use short lengths of 1/4" diameter rubberized twist ties to ensure the hasps stay securely closed if conditions get rough or if the boat were to capsize. I also keep a padlock or two aboard so I can lock up electronics or other gear in one of the seats in case we leave the boat unattended in public for awhile. This is what ours look like, though not the same brand: http://www.iboats.co...--view_id.38769

Something like this would be even slicker because you can just turn the swivel eye to keep the hasp closed: http://www.sea-dog.c...el-hasp

but you lose the draw-down tensioning. With this kind, I'd mount the longer part on the horizontal stringer, and then only the swiveling eye would have to be mounted on the removable cover.

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Wes, thanks for the suggestion. I do have something in mind actually, which I think is going to do the trick: two thumb screws through each of the side rails that will put pressure on the wedge and when tight should stop them from popping out. I want to see how your pipe bending adventure goes as I have plans for a tubular bowsprit. Keep the pictures coming. PeterP

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