Bikermouse Posted August 18, 2009 Report Share Posted August 18, 2009 Ok, looking for help on my next dumb move. I got my daggerboard case assembled and installed, and the bottom panels on my Sabotina. It wasn't until after doing this that I noticed the glops of epoxy and silica filler inside the case. Some were squeezed out from when I assembled the case, and some were drips from installing the bottom panels. Given that, yes, if I'd noticed this problem while the epoxy was wet then it'd have been easy to clean up, how do I now sand the epoxy glops off inside the case? I'm nervous about damaging the fiberglass inside the case, but if I cut the daggerboard to fit the glops then it'll be outrageously sloppy. Maybe wrap some sandpaper around a 1/2" dowel? I'm sure that someone here has pulled a miracle out of a similar mistake before! On an unrelated note, after I sanded the joint between my bottom panels, you should have seen the look on my wife's face when I told her to come outside and see how smooth my bottom felt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted August 18, 2009 Report Share Posted August 18, 2009 Using a hack saw blade and a pair of pliers, heat the blade until it's glowing hot, then start hacking away are the oozed out goo. The hot blade will slice right through, but it will cool fairly quickly, so don't get greedy. Take what you can get and reheat the blade. This will get you close, then you'll be left to smooth things out by hand. In an instance like this, I'd be inclined to screw a paint stirring stick to the bottom of a jitter bug pad. Wrap the stick with paper and have at the globs of goo. This will be faster then making a career out of hand working it. If you don't have the right tool, make the right tool I always say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillBrush Posted August 18, 2009 Report Share Posted August 18, 2009 Paul reminded me of something I have in my tool box from when my sewer main broke in half (yes it was icky.) A cast-iron sawzall blade (as in a blade for cutting cast iron.) Also works on ceramic and fiberglass IIRC. Basically it's just abrasive on the cutting edge. The blades I have are the 12" variety. With a little care you could probably make short work of the globbies. Avoiding damage to the other parts would be the main issue, but these blades really won't cut anything other than what they're designed for so even some cardboard could be an effective blade guard. If all else fails you might give it a try. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew_Butchart Posted August 18, 2009 Report Share Posted August 18, 2009 I've found that a wood rasp makes short work of cleaning up lumps and bumps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregg Posted August 18, 2009 Report Share Posted August 18, 2009 I found this power file from Harbor Freight worked great for me in tight places http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92158 Gregg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbrewer Posted August 19, 2009 Report Share Posted August 19, 2009 I've used 40 grit sandpaper cut from a sanding belt stapled onto the end of a piece of scrap wood. Low tech, but effective. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted August 19, 2009 Report Share Posted August 19, 2009 Take a long saws-all blade, wrap some tape around it and then tape some very aggressive paper to it. Stick it back in the saw-all and have at it. If the blade is too flexible, firm it up with a piece of thin plywood or paint mixing sticks. If you want a finer tool, use a jitter bug, just screw a length of whatever directly to the pad. Elbow grease is for dishes and sissies, power tools, particularly if modified to perform a new task are what men use. I have a shelf of tools like this, handles, power files, weird shaped cutoff tools, all sorts of bastardations, butcherings and "improvements". Some work great, others, not so much. I also have a drawer full of wrenches, screw drivers, etc, that have had things welded to them, been bent or other wise "changed" to fit a certain task. Many of these will never get used again, but I just can't seem to bring myself to tossing them in the can. Several years ago, I made a gag Christmas present for a friend of ours. She and I always teased each other and were "mean" if you didn't know us. I used a spent chainsaw engine, removed the bar, oilier and chain, then mounted the biggest vibrator I could find, where the bar used to be. It was packaged as the "World's First and Finest Power Vibrator" and wrapped up as a gift. She thought it was hysterical, though my other half didn't have the same opinion, which I only learned when we got back home. You have to be inventive if you want to be a boat builder . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisboats Posted August 19, 2009 Report Share Posted August 19, 2009 sureform blade stapled or nailed and clenched to a piece of 1/4" ply for a handle. Several years ago, I made a gag Christmas present for a friend of ours. She and I always teased each other and were "mean" if you didn't know us. I used a spent chainsaw engine, removed the bar, oilier and chain, then mounted the biggest vibrator I could find, where the bar used to be. It was packaged as the "World's First and Finest Power Vibrator" and wrapped up as a gift. She thought it was hysterical, though my other half didn't have the same opinion, which I only learned when we got back home. Oh...I would love to have come up with that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Luckett Posted August 19, 2009 Report Share Posted August 19, 2009 How far into the D/B case is it? I used one of those Japanese rasps from Duckworks on my Spindrift. It is a great tool and much better than the Sureform ones, which I still have but never use anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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