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Lapwing #5 build


John Turpin

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I took the spiling truss up to full scale. After finding my desired lines for strake #3, I glued up my truss. When set, I removed it and laid it on butcher paper to draw my pattern. When I get some ply scarfed together, I'll transfer the pattern and see how it turns out. Fingers crossed.

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Richard, when I get home from this business trip, I'll try out the fit of that shape.  I'll cut the ply oversized, just in case.  If it fits (and, oh, how I hope it fits), I'll mail you the pattern when I'm finished with it.  Now, caveat emptor.  I'm sure our two boats are already taking on subltly different shapes by this point and there's no guarantee that a strake shape that fits mine will automatically fit yours.  But, if the pattern fit is a success, you're welcome to it when I'm moving on to strake #4.

The stem.  I spent about an hour sitting on a milk crate staring at my stem on Monday with a ruler in my hand.  I used up an entire eraser marking and re-marking it over and over again.  I needed to mark the stem to show where each subsequent strake would be positioned on the stem.  At the stem, my strakes will slightly decrease in height as they run down the stem (when the boat is flipped upright).  The shear strake (#8) will be about 5" wide, but #7 will be about 4 1/2" and then each strake will be about 1/4" smaller than the strake above it.  This will require me to increase #3's overlap of #2 from the targeted 3/4" to about 1 1/8".  But, I think this decreasing pattern will look sweet when she's viewed in profile.

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Looking good John - looks like you will be all planked up before the cold sets in.

And, while I'm shivering in the cold and unable to work, you'll be enjoying your summer and be happily building away.  But, if I can complete the hull, get it painted and flipped before December, I'll be happy.

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Go John!  I have No. 4 cut and nearly ready to glue up (this weekend).  Let me know the details on how you end up doing the sheer strake.  Do you glue up the inner gunwale first and then glue the strake to it or the other way around?

Tom - you might have a comment here if you are reading this.  Obviously on this last strake both sides need to be as fair as possible.

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Go John!  I have No. 4 cut and nearly ready to glue up (this weekend).  Let me know the details on how you end up doing the sheer strake.  Do you glue up the inner gunwale first and then glue the strake to it or the other way around?

Tom - you might have a comment here if you are reading this.  Obviously on this last strake both sides need to be as fair as possible.

If you are building on a mold like I did, the inwhale cannot go on until the hull comes off the mold.  If building the kit, a straight piece of lumber for the inwhlale will help fair out the sheer.  I would probably wait to turn the hull upright before adding the inwhale.  Not sure what Graham's instructions say about this.

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Thanks Tom.  I just chatted with Graham about this and he said that he was used to just doing that step upside down.  (He denied that it had to do with his Southern-Hemisphere roots.)  But, he did confirm that the inwale should go in before the shear strake.  He also indicated that laminating up the inwale was unneccessary, so I'll just use pieces of 3/4" X 1 1/2" douglas fir.

I think I'll attempt it with the hull inverted and if it just gets too maddening, I'll flip it and try again.  I'll scarf together some long fir and tackle that inwale tomorrow.

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But, he did confirm that the inwale should go in before the shear strake. 

I think I'll attempt it with the hull inverted and if it just gets too maddening, I'll flip it and try again.  I'll scarf together some long fir and tackle that inwale tomorrow.

That is the key then.  With the inwhale going on first, it is properly shaped and then the sheer strake is fitted to it.  Can't easily be done that way on a mold because the inwhale would not clear the higher mold stringers to get the hull off.  Not that it might not be possible for someone to figure out some Goldberg way to do it.

What Graham is doing is helping insure the shape of the boat before it is righted.  I found that the shape of the sheer coming off the mold was good even though I had to leave the sheer and 2nd strake unattached from the transom so the hull would clear the tumblehome.  All those glued strake laps make the hull much more rigid than a boat like a CS in the same state of finish.

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