Jump to content

(re)installing a keel


Guest wwbaginski

Recommended Posts

Guest wwbaginski

Hello. Wintertime allows for mods, improvements and revisions. I'm working on side seat access hatches and the same time I,m  wondering if to replace the last summer made BRS keel with a correct (I mean drawn by designer)  one. My last summer problem was no help and no time to wait , so I,ve made my own "technology" instead of designed. I glued and screwed (from outside to the structural keel batten) together lots of 1 cm thin pine sticks to shape the keel, next I epoxied it and painted. The shape is right, as well as waterproof resistance, but I'm not sure about the strength. The question is how important is the keel strength to a Bay River Skiff hull, and should I replace the keel described above with a new one following the plans.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Guest wwbaginski

Thanks a lot for your opinions. I see  it's really usefull to put a metal strip on the keel bottom. I,ve never practiced it on my former boats. I'll put a metal strip instead of changing the keel.

Does a "dry sailed" boat mean a boat stored ashore after each cruise?

 

My next question is on seat access hatches. I'm worrying a bit about edges of vertical parts of "L" shaped thin plywood covers. No structural frame at all?  My BRS side seats edges are not straight, anyway (hope the photo has been attached properly).

Has any deformation after few years of sailing been observed ?

post-0-129497639507_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does a "dry sailed" boat mean a boat stored ashore after each cruise?

 

My next question is on seat access hatches. I'm worrying a bit about edges of vertical parts of "L" shaped thin plywood covers. No structural frame at all?  My BRS side seats edges are not straight, anyway (hope the photo has been attached properly).

Has any deformation after few years of sailing been observed ?

[attachment=1]

Yes, that is the meaning.

Not certain which part of the hatch you mean. The hatches should have vertical side pieces that make the hatch cover rigid.  Ideally, the hatch should rest on the edges of the drain channels when closed with a foam strip between. I've seen no deformation on any of these hatches. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
Guest wwbaginski

I turned the boat up side down to put a metal strip on the keel - I realized the keel is not tapered as designed - it runs 15' long  1 1/2" high and only 2' forward part is tapered from 1 1/2' to 0.    How about it? I'd like to ensure if the relation between the higher keel and the daggerboard still stays okay. Or is it neccesary  low the keel to 3/4" as designed?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest wwbaginski

Well, I shaped the keel to the designed shape finally. I realized that the shape is important for rowing time, when a  little skeg helps much to keep direction.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

Supporting Members

Supporting Members can create Clubs, photo Galleries, don't see ads and make messing-about.com possible! Become a Supporting Member - only $12 for the next year. Pay by PayPal or credit card.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.