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Guest wwbaginski

(re)installing a keel

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Guest wwbaginski

Hello. Wintertime allows for mods, improvements and revisions. I'm working on side seat access hatches and the same time I,m  wondering if to replace the last summer made BRS keel with a correct (I mean drawn by designer)  one. My last summer problem was no help and no time to wait , so I,ve made my own "technology" instead of designed. I glued and screwed (from outside to the structural keel batten) together lots of 1 cm thin pine sticks to shape the keel, next I epoxied it and painted. The shape is right, as well as waterproof resistance, but I'm not sure about the strength. The question is how important is the keel strength to a Bay River Skiff hull, and should I replace the keel described above with a new one following the plans.

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Are you saying that you laminated a keel out of thin strips epoxied together and held in place by screws while the epoxy cured?  If so, it is even stronger than a one piece keel.  It is also not bent to shape, but formed to it.

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If the exterior keel strip is similar to his other designs then it's a non-structural element and there to protect the bottom planking. From what I've seen of the BRS, it does appear to be quite similar, so your laminated keel strip should serve well. Don't fix what ain't broke.

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As said, the BRS bottom and keelson are plenty strong and your laminated keel is just fine as long as it is waterproof.  Did you add a stainless strip on it?  If so, the screws can be a water entry point but if your boat is dry sailed, that is no problem either.

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Guest wwbaginski

Thanks a lot for your opinions. I see  it's really usefull to put a metal strip on the keel bottom. I,ve never practiced it on my former boats. I'll put a metal strip instead of changing the keel.

Does a "dry sailed" boat mean a boat stored ashore after each cruise?

 

My next question is on seat access hatches. I'm worrying a bit about edges of vertical parts of "L" shaped thin plywood covers. No structural frame at all?  My BRS side seats edges are not straight, anyway (hope the photo has been attached properly).

Has any deformation after few years of sailing been observed ?

post-0-129497639507_thumb.jpg

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Does a "dry sailed" boat mean a boat stored ashore after each cruise?

 

My next question is on seat access hatches. I'm worrying a bit about edges of vertical parts of "L" shaped thin plywood covers. No structural frame at all?  My BRS side seats edges are not straight, anyway (hope the photo has been attached properly).

Has any deformation after few years of sailing been observed ?

[attachment=1]

Yes, that is the meaning.

Not certain which part of the hatch you mean. The hatches should have vertical side pieces that make the hatch cover rigid.  Ideally, the hatch should rest on the edges of the drain channels when closed with a foam strip between. I've seen no deformation on any of these hatches. 

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Guest wwbaginski

I turned the boat up side down to put a metal strip on the keel - I realized the keel is not tapered as designed - it runs 15' long  1 1/2" high and only 2' forward part is tapered from 1 1/2' to 0.    How about it? I'd like to ensure if the relation between the higher keel and the daggerboard still stays okay. Or is it neccesary  low the keel to 3/4" as designed?

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Guest wwbaginski

Well, I shaped the keel to the designed shape finally. I realized that the shape is important for rowing time, when a  little skeg helps much to keep direction.

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