davidpm Posted January 22, 2009 Report Share Posted January 22, 2009 I'm Baaak. Started last winter but got derailed by sailing season and now I'm doing some of the final, I hope steps. My plans for the 10N dated 3/3/05. On the grid for the rudder say 2" squares. In the text it says "Draw out 3" Square Grid on plywood. I'm pretty sure we are talking a less than 10" wide rudder right? Squares are 2". Just checking. I bought my Gudgeons & Pintles from Graham last year and they have a 1 1/8" fork which is perfect for the top one but for the bottom one with the doubler cheek block I figure I just have to route it in the first layer of ply. Again just checking as I sometimes make things harder than necessary. I'm planning on gluing up a mahogany rudder about 5/8" thick. Sound about right. Other than a couple of coats of epoxy on the inside of the 1/4" ply cheeks before final gluing what kind of finish it attempted for the inside of the rudder? The plans call for the filler pieces being 1/16" thicker than the rudder blade. Does that sound right for wood rudder blade coated in epoxy and varnished about 10 coats on both sides? I wish i had a finished piece I could cut off a scrap and strip and compare finished to unfinished thickness. As usual thanks for all your experience and comments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted January 22, 2009 Report Share Posted January 22, 2009 I bought my Gudgeons & Pintles from Graham last year and they have a 1 1/8" fork which is perfect for the top one but for the bottom one with the doubler cheek block I figure I just have to route it in the first layer of ply. Again just checking as I sometimes make things harder than necessary. Other than a couple of coats of epoxy on the inside of the 1/4" ply cheeks before final gluing what kind of finish it attempted for the inside of the rudder? The plans call for the filler pieces being 1/16" thicker than the rudder blade. Does that sound right for wood rudder blade coated in epoxy and varnished about 10 coats on both sides? I wish i had a finished piece I could cut off a scrap and strip and compare finished to unfinished thickness. The routing idea will work just fine. At least I thought so on my rudder. I assume you are really talking about the rudder "box" or "housing"? It wont be subject to much direct sunlight. Mine is just epoxied inside. 1/16" would seam about right for the finished housing and finished blade. Just finish the blade first, before building the housing. If it is too tight it won't work at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidpm Posted January 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2009 [quote author=Hirilond Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lbrewer Posted January 22, 2009 Report Share Posted January 22, 2009 On the grid for the rudder say 2" squares. In the text it says "Draw out 3" Square Grid on plywood. That hung me up a bit on my plans as well. The 2" squares worked out right. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidpm Posted January 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2009 thanks all. My plans say: "the standard pintle position is 10" apart, but the top pintle" Like there was some warning comming but then nothing. Any idea what the rest of the sentance is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted January 23, 2009 Report Share Posted January 23, 2009 The standard pintle position is 10" apart' date=' but the top pintle may be lowered to suit the outboard if necessary[/quote'] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidpm Posted January 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2009 [quote author=Hirilond Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidpm Posted January 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2009 Instead of routing out the top layer of plywood it may be possible to re-bend the fork. Has anyone tried that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markja Posted January 24, 2009 Report Share Posted January 24, 2009 I simply bent the lower pintle to fit the lower part of the rudder, no problem. I fussed with the top and bottom pins so they would stay parallel to the edge of the rudder, too. As far as clearance between the rudder blade and the "cheeks", i found some large nylon washers at the local hardware store that I let into the blade until the fit was good enough, I think it keeps things from sticking. -Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidpm Posted January 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 I like the idea of the washers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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