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EC 22


jawilco

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Joe, the build looks good and it does look like fun! It appears there are some similarities between what you are doing and the Princess boats, so I'm following this with interest.

On the bottom ply layers, are those small colored patches bits of cardboard between the layers? If so, why?

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When laminating thin plywood you need to have lots of even pressure. You need more where the plywood is flat and less where you have curvature. I ran screws into the temporary stringers which are about 9 or 10 inches apart. You need to develop some pressure in between them. Hence the staples.  

 

I think Graham just drove his staples directly into the plywood.  

 

My original thought was to get a hold of some nylon strapping that I have seen holding cubes of brick or piles of lumber.  

 

You could drive a series of staples into a two foot piece of strapping and them pull up a mess of staples all at once.  

 

I did not have the strapping and so used pieces of plastic containers. They are placed under the staples which are being driven through the outer layer of 4mm ply to squeeze it down onto the inner layer of ply. Making an epoxy sandwich.  You are right the purpose is to cause a little less damage when removing the staples.

 

Next time I would get some strapping.

I was a little intimidated by the idea of laminating a 3X4 piece of plywood, but now it does not seem like such a big deal.

Cool weather and slow hardner are your friends especially on the first couple of pieces.

Joe

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  • 2 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I have been considering installing a centerboard gasket. Purpose is to reduce turbulence and drag around the centerboard and water pressure in the centerboard trunk.

I really do not know more about CB gaskets other than what I have seen in a book and found online.

They are made of mylar and dacron sail cloth or vinyl.

They can be single flap, split or overlapping.

Are they worth the added complexity?

Has anyone had experience installing them on a Core Sound boat?

Thanks

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I had a split plastic one on a O'Day Daysailor II that just captured sand and shells every time I landed on a beach.  The board subsequently was always getting stuck up and I had to go underwater to free it.

The centerboard problem was the main reason I got rid of the boat.

I like the free open centerboard case I have on my CS 17 "Lively".

Dale

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  • 4 months later...

Joe, I've enjoyed following the progress of your build on your blog. You do nice work.

I assume the concrete is a mold to cast a lead tip for the centerboard. How long will you have to wait to make sure that there is no moisture in the concrete? How will you be completely sure the concrete is bone dry before you pour molten lead into it?

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Good questions Mike

Concrete is a mold for a cast lead tip for the board. The mold is already 10 days old so primary curing should be complete. I do not want to wait too long because I want the board completed so I can build the case. The case needs(wants) to go into the boat in the next couple of weeks.

I have some calm weather coming up at the end of this week.

If I could get the thirty pounds of concrete into the oven without breaking anything like the oven racks or the elements, I will slow roast it for a day or so.

Better half might not approve of this plan especially with big Easter dinner coming up.  :mad:

Back up plan is to put it in the charcoal grill with a low fire for several hours to prewarm the mold and drive out any moisture.

Lead casting is a new adventure. I have read enough to know that most sensible people would install the lead by casting it in epoxy.  :?

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Lead casting is a new adventure. I have read enough to know that most sensible people would install the lead by casting it in epoxy.  

It is dangerous and not all that difficult.  Only sensible people should try it!    :lol:  If you have you lead in shot I have to admit that casting in epoxy would probably be smarter.  I had a lead pipe to melt down and then poured lead directly into holes sawn into the centerboard.  It went without a hitch.  There was a bit of scorching but no instantaneous fires that some insisted was the inevitable outcome.  I've decided with my casting experiance behind me that the real danger is moisture encountered during your pour.  Even a few drops is a very bad thing.  Do your pour behind cover even if its as flimsy as cardboard.  it will keep the spatter off.  

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Thanks for the encouragement Chris.

Graham mentions in the plans casting lead shot mixed with epoxy into holes drilled near the tip as an alternative to casting a solid lead tip.

I was pleased at the opportunity to try some lead casting in my boat building class.

Pouring the hot lead right into the board sounds pretty exciting.

How much lead did you pour?

What size board is this and how does she drop?

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I had thoughts of casting pins into the lead that would set into the board or some kind of groove but Graham said just a butt joint would suffice. All the strength in this situation will come from two layers of 6 oz cloth.

I plan to lay two extra layers down the center of the board to the lead tip. Making a total of four layers on the wide side of the board

I plan to run an epoxy soaked rope up the leading edge of the board this will bury into the base of the lead tip.

I hope that will be sufficient without being overkill.

You do not want your board to break.

Nor do you want your board to be able to break your boat.

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Lead shot is hard to find, even down here in camo gear, gun toting Carolina coast. I had to order a bag of shot. Small shot that packs tighter than big stuff. I think is #9, but back in the day when we used shot/epoxy to weight R/C model sailboats we could get #12 and even #15.

We also would pour lead - melted wheel weights - directly into the fiberglass hull or keel shell.  To keep the polyester from scorching and/or crazing we would immerse the hull in water. Since the EC-12 hull and all the 36/600 and 50/800 keel shells were center seamed I would seal the seam with a couple layers of well rubbed down masking tape. That worked most of the time.  The couple times it didn't was very exciting! One water/lead explosion from a tall skinny 50/800 keel shell peppered the garage ceiling with little balls of lead.  It was a nice shot pattern, just like someone had planted the butt of a 12 ga. sawed-off on the floor and pulled the trigger.

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Boat has yet to see the water.  The board is very heavy.  I'm pretty confident that it will sink. 

That would seem to be an easy thing to test and something I'd want to know before I installed it.

I'd have a Y shaped yoke with a pivot pin, or simply a loop of line passed through the pivot pin hole. I'd then take it to the nearest dock and drop it in. That should give you some idea if it will sink and how fast.

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I do not have anyone to blame but myself Ken.

I did weigh the concrete overshoes and they came in at 60 pounds. Too heavy for the oven racks.

I found an electric element intended to use for lighting a charcoal fire that I remembered seeing on the shelves in the cellar.

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