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"laminating" CS20


Guest Joe Nelson Oregon CS20 #3

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Guest Joe Nelson Oregon CS20 #3

The cockpit combing says it should be laminated in the rounded corners. What materials could be used for such a process?

Also a short description by anyone who has done this would be appreciated.

Joe :)

joe_nelson22@hotmail.com

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Guest John Burritt

One material would be mahogany. Another would be ash. Resaw the material into strips thin enough to make the bend. Two thicknesses should do it. Make a mold with a radius a bit tighter than the final dimension (to allow for a bit of spring-back). Cover the mold with plastic, duct tape, or whatever epoxy doesn't stick to. Wet out the strips of material with epoxy; then the usual amount of thickened epoxy to assure a good bond. Layer them together and clamp them around the mold. Be sure you allow enough width for the deck camber. Not a bad idea to trace a paper (or whatever)pattern to get your shapes beforehand. Once the epoxy is set, trim the laminated material to size and epoxy in place. Rounding the edges can also be done before installation. Follow Graham's suggestions as to how high the combing should extend above the deck - expecially toward the stern. Remember, you will probably spend a bit of time sitting on it.

jbncb@coastalnet.com

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Guest Joe Nelson Oregon CS20 #3

Thanks John,

I was toying with the idea of raising the height of the coaming a bit, especially towards the front. Would be nice for both spray deflection and back rest. I was not aware that hiking on the side decks would be necessary? Might need to get feedback from sailors prior to deciding on that point.

Joe

joe_nelson22@hotmail.com

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Guest Charlie Jones, Lotsa boat

I've found that laminations, at least for me, go much better with an odd number of strips. I've not had too much success using just two pieces, unless it was a very large radius. I always try to use 3, 5, etc. Of course, in thick laminations- up around 6 or more layers, it ceases to matter.

Don't forget you need to slightly over radius the mold to take in to account the slight bit of "spring back" you always get.

Mbdolfns@nospamtisd.net

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Guest Gordy Hill

When I made my coaming for my CS17 I used three layers of 3mm okume for the bend, and 9mm for the straight sections and scarfed them. Of course they're painted and I assume you want yours bright. Mine had to be high enough to attach snaps for the Bimini Top-like tent I had made.

If your coaming is high enough to attach snaps, it will cut your but in half when you sit on it...trust me on this, and yes you could reef, but your boat really scats when it's windy enough to need the moveable ballast.

To address the problem, I made teak "steps" for the side deck to be used when entering or leaving the boat at a dock. They're just a section of 1" stock about 18" long on the side deck. They just happen to be placed where I sit when hikeing.

(Clever, aren't I? )

If I were to do it again, I'd consider making the coaming go all the way down to the seat. I would cut oval access holes in and sub-devide the areas under the deck. This would provide places for things that are always nice to have at hand, such as charts, radio, GPS, sunscreen, horn, etc. etc.

The cubbys should be drained and stuff in them will definately get wet.

sirgordy@peoplepc.com

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Guest Graham Byrnes

1/4" okume ply is probably the easiest to use and will bend around the foredeck without much coaching.It needs to be soaked for a while to go around the aft deck. If you build that version?

I can email you some new pics if you would like.

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