Maria CS20 104 Posted July 16, 2008 Report Share Posted July 16, 2008 Man oh man, can't believe we are really here, fact not sure we are, experimenting with pull in and alignment. My engineering back ground wants to check evey measurement and detail. Butterflied the front, drilled the holes using carpenters square, we drilled out template holes for attachment at every 5 1/2" s'. looks good but as always a few details I need to confirm with measurements. ENGINEERS, what can you expect? Hull alignment and hole alignment look really good. We'll position the forms tommorrow and hopefully set the panels in place on the forms and tighten the wires and tie straps to conform to the shape. We'll Keep Ya posted and finnaly get pics on line. Centerboard t be planed down this week to give me something to do while fillets set and cure. Keeping busy. Jim A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Luckett Posted July 16, 2008 Report Share Posted July 16, 2008 I know how you feel and it is a great feeling, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maria CS20 104 Posted July 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2008 You are absolutley right, a bit scary too. When pulled up all the little errors I WILL have will show up and we'll have to do what ya'll have done, DEAL WITH IT and move forward. Wife and son are as excited as I am and they tend to push me to quit thinking so much and just DO SOMETHING. Things to do, dial back in later. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maria CS20 104 Posted August 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2008 Hey ya'll got the sides, bottom, temp center bulkhead, and transom all wired, looks and feels fairly true and measure out to be true as well. BUT HOUSTON, WE HAVE A PROBLEM! The forward bulkhead does not fit, I have a smile at thte bottom of the bulkhead where it does not set into the bottom of the boat. At the very center bottom it is about 1.25 inches and like I said it is a smile as the gap closes to both sides evenly. Tried everything I could think of to pull in, but if the bottom comes up, the chine spreads and the sides don't meet. If I set it further in the seat stringers are not in the cutouts and the top of the bulkhead is below the edge of the boat. Yes, I have checked and rechecked the measurements of the bulkhead, exact as I could make it and she ain't right. Any ideas? Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Designer Posted August 12, 2008 Report Share Posted August 12, 2008 Hi Jim, We have covered this situation several times before and if you do a search of my posts you should be able to find them. Basically if the hull is tight, fair and true you need to adjust the bulkhead to the boat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maria CS20 104 Posted August 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2008 64 I am still in awe of how you cannot screw it up to much. Aligned today and put stretchers (spreaders) half way from forward bulkhead to bow, and another at four feet from stern, this was to produce a more consistant curve from stem to stern making a nice clean curve. We are really ready to put epoxy fillets in and move forward. THink I spent four hours measuring spreaders and blocks to firm up the hull and placement of inwalls. Trust me we have fought inwalls to conform to hull shape, spreaders have helped a bunched. Nothing like a poly hammer to push, drive and correct misaliginment. 6 foot level gives me confindence that we are true and square. I keep redoing the obvious and punching in and out and trying to make perfect, pretty stupid but my nature. Here is the question. Got inwalls in place and stretchers spreading hull fairly, I want to begin fillets and I am worried,do I need to let spreaders do there work for a few days, and can I fillet the cines while waiting for the inwalls to form. Think I can fillet in bow and stern and part of the chines, but do not want to pull spreaders off until wood sets to curve. What is the best way to set and glue in inwalls? Should I do them first and then do chines, the inwalls are working to curve better than I did expected and I have seen them to square up some to the sides of the boat. Comments and Guidance from the Masters is needed...... Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Designer Posted August 17, 2008 Report Share Posted August 17, 2008 Glue in the inwales first so that you will have the hull in its final shape before you lock in the chines. When fitting the inwales I open the transom at the sheer so that I can fit the inwales at the bow with the aft end running by the transom. After I am satisfied with the bow fit I can then cut the aft ends to length. I like to have all of the solid wood components glued to the transom and bulkheads first so that they will be more stable, straight and it gives me something to put a temporary screw into when holding them temporarily in place. I want the bulkheads straight and true before they are filleted in place so that you don't have to force the joints when you try to straighten them later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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