Guy Posted June 18, 2008 Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 Hi Folks. I am new to this list. I started building a CS20. I very much like the looks of the CS. Usually I don't fancy hard chined boats, mostly because the hard chines usually rise above the waterline just before the transom and as such I find the transom of such boats have an un-pleasing shape, to me anyways. When I saw this boat in Woodenboat's Small Boats 2008, I found it to be very beautiful and I like the fact that a building jig is not needed. I had considered a John Welsford glued-lap backed by stringer design, very nice boat. But it needs a building jig and is meant to be built up-right, which when beveling a plank to accept the next one probably means lying on the ground while holding a hand plane above me (not a work position I would find comfortable). I bought the marine grade plywood (meranti). I bought the douglas fir, cut out the blanks and labelled them. So when I need a part, I pull out the blank(s), mill it down to size and scarf it if req'd. Concerning the inwales, the plans don't show any notches in the permanent bulkheads or the temporary one for them but there are notches shown for the seat stringer. Is that an omission or are the inwales meant to be built as separate parts (eg: one piece from transom to aft bulkhead, and one from aft bulkhead to forward bulkhead, etc, etc)? Rgds, Guy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Stewart Posted June 18, 2008 Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 Guy, Welcome to the forum and congrats on starting the build. My dad and I just finished our CS20 that we raced in the Everglades Challenge this last March. I have a bunch of construction photos on my public web-albums through picasa that you might find helpful. I know that we valued others construction photos greatly during our build. http://picasaweb.google.com/alanosauras/ As for the inwales they should definately be scarfed together beforehand as they provide a lot of "flowy strength" to the top edges of the hull sides before the deck is glued on. If they were made of two pieces it would be much more difficult to get the "rim" of the hull fair from bow to stern. Ideally they are a continuous piece of very uniform density for equal bending from end to end but realistically, just try not to scarf to pieces of very different density or the piece as a whole won't bend uniformly. You probably already knew that. Hope any of that helps. -Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Posted June 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 Alan. Thx for the info. I was following your build and found it very interesting. Rgds, Guy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Posted June 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 Ray. I knew that was you in the article. I have been lurking on this forum for some time. Your boat has a beautiful color scheme. I started my build in late Fall last year. I spent what little time I had over the winter building the rudder and centerboard because I don't have a heated locale where I can do the build and my garage is only 16' long. Rgds, Guy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Posted June 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 Ray. I was considering the Whaler 6M. Actually had more than considered it, I had purchased the plans and had started on a few molds / frames when I saw the CS20 in Small Boats. That is when I switched to the CS20. I saw your web site and ads in some mags, I see that you also build Welsford's Navigator & Pathfinder. Rgds, Guy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maria CS20 104 Posted June 19, 2008 Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 Ray, look forward to seeing more of your pics and work, it is amazing to say the least. I saw that article as well and it clearly and truely inspired me to really get into this project on our cs20. My son was inspired as well. Best with the Sea Scout boat, I were one once, it was an amazing experiance and that's where I learned sailing and basic seamenship before going into the Navy and ending up on subs for 5 years. Folks like you are needed to train new leaders in this country. Blessing and Best to you and all involved. Jim Atkinson, CS20 104 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maria CS20 104 Posted June 23, 2008 Report Share Posted June 23, 2008 DREAMER............ gotta love it. The kids would be amazed at what a monster CS could do. We had an old liberty launch, circa 1945, might have made 5 knots with a tail wind and her 4 banger rolling over as faast as it could. Question for you, do you have some pics of a centerboard and centerboard truck during the building of these two items? I am trying to scetch and cutout the parts and pieces for these as I await delivery of my fir and hoped to make progress, but a picture is worth 10,000 words in this process. I laid out the rudder blade, cheeks and doublers this weekend, cutout tonight and glue blade halves together, simpler than I thought. Thanks, Jim A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maria CS20 104 Posted April 25, 2009 Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 8) Just checking in to see how you are doing. We slowed down with daughter and grandkid to grandkids (2 now). 2.5 years and .5 years almost what a handfull but wonderful. The 104 has been slow but moving forward. Looking at the motor mounts and rear seat stringers at the moment to box in a rear seat structure. Began measuring and cut blanks, one for each side of the transom. Busy building stuff for inside the house as well and fixing stuff long unattended as I have a bunch of time available now that I have been resigned from my job. Got some stuff to do and keep busy. Let All Know how you are doing Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wkisting Posted April 25, 2009 Report Share Posted April 25, 2009 Ray: there might be a COreSOund on Steroids model coming off the drawing board to allow 6 person rowing and self bailing cockpit and such... Ray, why is the client interested in a self-bailing cockpit? The Anderson Bailer works a treat, and seems to negate any need for a raised, self-draining floor, without the associated problems: higher CG, less interior legroom/height, and a greater chance of being difficult to right if it turns turtle. I'm just curious why someone would want to depart from the simpler (effective) Anderson Bailer solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_Potts Posted April 26, 2009 Report Share Posted April 26, 2009 So they'll be rowing fast enough to take water on? It seems like that would be fast enough for the bailer to work. I guess there's rain to deal with but it would take lots of rain to put significant water in the cockpit. Then again if they're out on multiple-day trips it would be nice to not have to bail. Just today I was talking about covering the footwell of Southbound with plywood and hatches for extra storage. I won't do it but it's a fun idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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