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Core Sound 20: Hull #103


Alan Stewart

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Clear photos are hard to come by; the foredeck just doesn't usually make it into any pictures.  Here are what I found.  The first was taken before I shortened the masts to plan--putting the foot of the sleeve inside the pvc coupling, so I had to take a saw to the coupling and reduce it.  The second is the main stepper in action right after paddling beneath a low bridge.  The final photo shows the mizzen stepper with the new cabin erected.  This one is a bit shorter than the main, and shaped to fit the funny space, with holes for the cb up- and downhauls.  Both are secured to the boat by 1/4-20 hex head machine screws going into epoxy bushings.  (Not the most secure system, but easy to do.)  Although both steppers are slotted so they can be taken off the boat with the masts in place, I almost never take them off at all.  (The original idea was to move the main stepper to the reefing step at need.)

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Alan,

How did you use the aluminum tubes on the RAF tri to extend the fiberglass windsurfing mast?  Did you use 2.25" tubing with an insert that would act like a regular windsurfing extension base?  I'm thinking of making a mast for the Ulua I have that uses some tubing for the bottom of the mast and uses the 15'2" windsurfing mast as the upper.  Overall I need about 22.5' of mast including 14" of bury in the hull.  I can get up to 8' lengths fo any diameter and thickness really easily.

Dan

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Dan,

Essentially yes, same as a regular mast extension. We wrapped fiberglass tape around the aluminum mast at the bottom and top of the overlap area and then slowly sanded it down until it fit snug and tight in the aluminum tube and secured with screws from the outside. Same method we will use when we assemble the CS20 mast sections. I am pretty sure we used 2.25" aluminum with a 1/8" thickness (very stiff).

Here is a pic of the windsurfer mast:

http://picasaweb.google.com/alanosauras/SailingAdventuresOfTeamRAF/photo?authkey=BdmDWlONXZY#5032417958950647890

And the mast bend under load:

http://picasaweb.google.com/alanosauras/SailingAdventuresOfTeamRAF/photo?authkey=BdmDWlONXZY#5038605132766712050

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So your windsurfer mast is INSIDE the aluminum tubing?  I was thinking of butting the 2.25" aluminum tubing up to the bottom of the windsurfing mast and using a INTERNAL fitting from a smaller aluminum tube to replicate the way it is normally used.  I like the idea of what you guys did and it might work for me since I'll be using either laced sails or some sort of mast hoop.  Would those hang up on an external fit if your sail was reefed up and down rather than around the mast?  It seems like they might.

Dan

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Yeah, our windsurfer masts were inside the aluminum tubing and there was a lip. It didn't matter for the roller reefing sails that we used but if your planning to use a laced or hooped luff sail then I would definitely do it the way you suggest with a smaller aluminum tube connecting the two together inside and just use the same fiberglass tape method to build up the diameter.

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  • 2 weeks later...

More progress made over Thanksgiving holiday. All but the tabernacle bulkhead installed as of today. Soon to begin installation of seat sides and cabin seat and bench structures as well as centerboard trunk install, tabernacle bulkhead install and then roll roll roll yer boat, time for a bottom job.

www.sailnaway.blogspot.com

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You bet! We are taking a lot of inspiration from Graham's EC22 for our cabin design but we are planning a different roof design. It will be 7 feet long inside from the entry bulkhead (with the trunk slot) to the tabernacle bulkhead. We are planning for 48" of sitting headroom in the first 3 or 4 feet of the cabin. The starboard half of the cabin will be fully covered to the cabin seat top height and the port side will have the footwell which is why the inside floor stringer on the port side is cut short.

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  • 4 weeks later...

The latest update on hull 103. http://www.sailnaway.blogspot.com. We are getting the final coats of epoxy on the inside of the hull and getting ready to install the cabin seat top structure and cockpit seat tops. Soon we will be flipping the hull over to finish the bottom of the hull. Since I last posted we have installed the centerboard trunk and I am currently working on applying the final coats of epoxy on the board itself. We also added a new old school drill press to our basement workshop. Here is a pic of the cabin seat structure. Merry Christmas.

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More progress on hull #103. We have the hull upside down and are planning to finish the bottom this week. With only 8 weeks left to the start of the 2008 Everglades Challenge crunch time will soon be upon us.

See the latest at www.sailnaway.blogspot.com

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We added a length of PVC pipe along the port side under the seat top from the cabin to the aft compartment next to the transom and also inside the cabin to the bow to run wires. Just in case we end up adding a permanent lighting setup with a battery or maaaaybe a small electric trolling motor for future adventures.

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We added a length of PVC pipe along the port side under the seat top from the cabin to the aft compartment next to the transom and also inside the cabin to the bow to run wires. Just in case we end up adding a permanent lighting setup with a battery or maaaaybe a small electric trolling motor for future adventures.

I'd change out the 90 degree elbows for 45's, or eliminate them entirely. Makes pulling wire a lot easier. I'd also put in a pull string now for pulling the wires later. Needless to say, don't ask me how I know ;D ;D ;D

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I'd hoped to anchor my trolling motor battery up under the forward seat to help balance crew weight in the aft cockpit.  Turns out that dc power drains fast with distance, unless you have a truly humongous wire.  Bowing to necessity, it now lives tucked uneasily under the thwart, slid out and underfoot when needed.

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