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My S11N is very bowed


mjname

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I've checked my measurements and everything looks good, but it isn't snapping together like I thought it would. I also thought it would sit flat-er on the floor than it wants too.

Anyway here is some pix laid out flat and half way put together. Notice I had to un-wire the aft part of the keel line. I couldn't get the nesting bulkhead tied in without doing that. So now I am slowly working the side and bottom panels together and when those are done... I plan bolster the hull and stich the keel back together then fasten in the transom.

Remember it's an Spindrift 11 N and I'm doing this by myself with basically no tools... so any advice on how you guys got things together would be much appreciated.

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Didn't anyone tell you that they don't snap together :P : :lol: some bits does require "some" coersion. That aft part of the keel line would require the most elbow grease. do it slowly, add more stitches if its hard to pull in.

You have pretty much the right idea. I didn't have to undo the stiches on mine though.

I also noticed that you also have that gap under the nesting bulkhead. I thought I made a mistake when putting mine together as I had that too.

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No, No One told me they don't snap together... I'm sure someone on this list said something like, "Oh yeah, basically you just velcro it together and use a bit of glue, then go out for crumpets." OK OK that isn't what they said.

I'm going to try and use some zip ties, and blocks of wood and screws to stitch the keel together. It's really hard to get in there and wire because I can't actually be in the boat while wiring it together.

Last night I almost took it apart, thinking I had measured things wrong. I'm glad to hear that it takes a lot of elbow grease to get it together, because that's what it's taking. However I am really in love with the bow line and the sheer of her. But it seems like the Transom is pretty high off the ground when she is balanced on her middle.

Also I'm using Fir so if anyone has ideas about Fir let me know. It might be less pliable than other marine plywood and do I need to use glass weave over the entire boat to keep her from checking? Or will epoxying the entire boat solve that?

Thanks Piper, just hearing from someone else who has done this has already made a big difference.

Matthew

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Looks to me like you are doing OK. When I got to that stage, I kept breaking the small wires I was using and had to get a roll of iron tie wire like they use to hold rebar together in concrete forms. By using that, going slow and adding more stitches, it came together. Pulling the nesting bulkhead down was a challenge. The picture looks like fir plywood and I'd guess that might be just a little stiffer than Okoume.

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Thanks Jetstream

I'll start working on her again after noon time, I'll put more stitches in the keel line and also try some zip ties. I'm already using 16 guage wire, it isn't breaking but pulling through the holes... thats why I had to cut the aft keel line, to take preasure off to get the forward and middle bulk head in place.

Yes she is FIR and I bet fir is more rigid than Okaume. Knowing this I may have tried harder to get Okaume...

Matthew

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I think that you need to recheck your measurements again. It looks like you have too much curve at the keel centerline aft. The plan calls for only 3/16" curve from the straight edge of the sheet at the stern.

The chine line aft looks too flat in the picture. It looks like the chineline aft and the centerline aft are reversed. The centerline should have a gentle curve and the chine should have a lot of curve.

I am wondering if you got the 3/16" and 5/8" measurements backwards. Instead of 3/16" from the long edge of the ply up the keel and 5/8" from the aft edge to the transom it went 5/8" up and 3/16" in.

The picture shows the outline of the bottom in blue and the straight edges of the sheet in red. These are lifted right off of the plan.

Assuming all of the measurements are correct, you should have wired all of the way down the centerline first and opened the panels out like a book.

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I don't understand the first photo. If I remember correctly, the butterfly was wired completely, though lossely, along the bottom. When the butterfly was opened, the bottom was already tied together, then the sides were laced to the bottom. Here's a pic of my girlfriend hold the sides right after the butterfly was opened.

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After the sides were laced up, then the center and aft bulkheads were fitted.

Tip: Tie the parts together loosely, then gradually tighten the wires while working the boat into shape. If needed, add additional ties at closer spacing in high stress areas. Take your time and tighten gradually, maybe leaving overnight for the wood to relax a little.

If there is still a large gap under the center bulkhead, check with Graham. MY plans had an error in dimensioning the center bulkhead.

Edit - It looks like Graham and I were responding at the same time. I see the difference in the curves now that he pointed it out. Best of luck!

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I see in your photos that you wired loosly, means that there is an inch or more. My loosly was about 1/2" also Graham is right I inverted the measurements. I'll try to pull things together a bit and see if I can correct this without scraping the project and starting over. I don't have time for that. I have to be out of the location I am in another 10 days.

I'm hoping that the nesting bulk head is correct because I don't have anymore wood.

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It is good to know the cause of the problem. There is no reason that you cannot put in some darts of plywood to bring the shape back, they will all be covered with glass tape.

The bulkhead should fit once you pull everything together.

One last question on measurements. Did you make all of your measurements out to the chine from the straight edge of the ply or did you add the keel measurements to the chine measurements?

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Grahm asked "did you add the keel measurements to the chine measurements?"

I thought I measred up from the straight edge of the plywood but It looks obvious that I didn't.

I'm going to take the whole thing apart, and using a straight edge re-measure everything.

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It became very obvious that I didn't use 3/16, it was more like 3 7/8. I was trying to figure out how in the heck I made that cut... because I remember drawing it out like is whats on the plan. But now I remember that there was a perfect arch mar on the plywood that looked like a pencil line. I think in the height of cutting I followed that instead of the pencil line.

Ok so I didn't take the whole thing apart and measure. I just figured out where center was. Measured up 20 7/8 on the bottom sheet on each side from where the center keel point would be and made a mark, brought the sides into that mark and wired.

Wired in the transom to the sides and then the bottom and I'm left with a whole lot that needs to be darted in. After I get the gunwalls glued in I will cut custom darts for each side and epoxy and tape it all in on both sides. Once the epoxy is filleted on the inside I will flip over and remove the excessive wings on the aft.

I really think that in 10 days I can have it to the point where I can paint the outer hull outside. I can leave her upside down in the sand until I can deal with the inner hull fittings, or stick her under the neighbors beach house. I just need to be done and out of that room in 10 - 14 days.

Graham Thanks for getting back to the list so fast, I appreciate it. All of you helped me just move forward in a solution instead of just giving up.

Ray, yes it's Fir and wish I had known about the Hydrotech, would have used that to save from having to glass the fir. Ughh. The fir was about 40ish a sheet.

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Looks much better now. And with a little creative plexiglass work, you could have a glass-bottomed boat!

When I built, I somehow mis-measured the sides at the transom station, leaving a huge gap between sides and bottom. It was a real Frankenstein job to close it up, but under all that glass and epoxy, no one but me (and now you all) knows its there.

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I would really like to have the bow forward bulk head completed with the mast color in place for future sailing options, the painter ring installed, and the knees put in also would like to have the entire inside of the hull completed with epoxy. Can paint and get it situated just right later. Can even glass it outside later.

I just finished putting on the first layer of gunwale trim. putting on the second and third tomorrow.

But you know what really burns me up. cleaning up with viniger after I've cut up my hands with all that wire fastening. yeap that burns.

Good night all and thanks again for all the great feed back and support.

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