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SC17 Coaming


James Bandle

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I can tell you how I did it, and show a couple of pics.

I took a piece of ply and sliced it vertically on my bandsaw, then laminated it back together in place, then trimmed to the correct lines.

First pic is laminating, second is finished coaming. I have a few more pics if you'd like to see them. It really wasn't that hard.

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:lol: Graham- talking about splitting it edgewise to make the curve :lol: I did that on the band saw' date=' new blade, careful control.

Not talking about cutting it out.[/quote']

Why not just use two thinner pieces of ply? A single sheet of 1/8" would have been enough to do all of the coaming pieces for my CS17, and still have enough left over for other projects. This would have been much easier to bend to shape than the 1/4" that I steamed to fit. There would have been fewer breakages as well :oops:

There was some discussion a while back about the thickness of the coaming. I've gone with one 1/4" piece, but others have used 2 x 1/4" pieces for extra strength. By using 1/8" ply you could easily add additional layers until you were happy with the thickness....

Peter

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The only real drawback to that is that nowhere else on the boat does it use 1/8 ply. So you''d have to get a full sheet of the 1/8th ( or metric equivalant) JUST for the coamings.

Much less bother and expense to use the 6MM stuff. Of course, around my shop I have a lot of 4 MM which could be used, but few have scrap around from other boats like I do, and Tom does and Ray does. :lol::lol:

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On my boat the deck was much different because I wanted a casting platform. I made the deck cut out elliptical. I used door skin to get a pattern because I wanted the coaming to slant slightly forward. It ended up a swoop-shape. I then used three thicknesses of 1/8 inch and scarfed it to 3/8 inch for the sides. I didn't have coaming on the aft deck. When I was done the coaming was one piece and I really liked the look of it.

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