James Bandle Posted April 4, 2007 Report Share Posted April 4, 2007 Can any one describe a technique for forming the curved coaming called for in the SC17 planes? I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Jones Posted April 4, 2007 Report Share Posted April 4, 2007 I can tell you how I did it, and show a couple of pics. I took a piece of ply and sliced it vertically on my bandsaw, then laminated it back together in place, then trimmed to the correct lines. First pic is laminating, second is finished coaming. I have a few more pics if you'd like to see them. It really wasn't that hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Bandle Posted April 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 I guess I'll try the water method first ... I do not have access to a band saw, would a table saw with a narrow blade do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Jones Posted April 5, 2007 Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 Sorry, but even a thin kerf blade would take too much. In that case go with the hot water. I didn't want to risk a color change between wetted wood and non wetted stuff, which is why I sliced the ply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Designer Posted April 5, 2007 Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 A jig saw would cut the coaming just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Jones Posted April 5, 2007 Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 Graham- talking about splitting it edgewise to make the curve I did that on the band saw, new blade, careful control. Not talking about cutting it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Batchelor Posted April 5, 2007 Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 Graham- talking about splitting it edgewise to make the curve I did that on the band saw' date=' new blade, careful control.Not talking about cutting it out.[/quote'] Why not just use two thinner pieces of ply? A single sheet of 1/8" would have been enough to do all of the coaming pieces for my CS17, and still have enough left over for other projects. This would have been much easier to bend to shape than the 1/4" that I steamed to fit. There would have been fewer breakages as well :oops: There was some discussion a while back about the thickness of the coaming. I've gone with one 1/4" piece, but others have used 2 x 1/4" pieces for extra strength. By using 1/8" ply you could easily add additional layers until you were happy with the thickness.... Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Jones Posted April 6, 2007 Report Share Posted April 6, 2007 The only real drawback to that is that nowhere else on the boat does it use 1/8 ply. So you''d have to get a full sheet of the 1/8th ( or metric equivalant) JUST for the coamings. Much less bother and expense to use the 6MM stuff. Of course, around my shop I have a lot of 4 MM which could be used, but few have scrap around from other boats like I do, and Tom does and Ray does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Jones Posted April 6, 2007 Report Share Posted April 6, 2007 Ray- the doubling up on the coaming is really a very decent idea- I'll have to look at that when I put the coamings on this 20 I'm doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Routley Posted April 6, 2007 Report Share Posted April 6, 2007 How about 1/8 in door skins? They are about $18.00 around here. 3ft x 7ft. Oak, Birch, Mahogany, all the same price. Not much left over for scrap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Designer Posted April 6, 2007 Report Share Posted April 6, 2007 Most of the door skins I have seen delaminate over time, even with epoxy coating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Nelson CS#35 Posted April 6, 2007 Report Share Posted April 6, 2007 Here is how I did it. http://www.messing-about.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4002&highlight=bending Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordy Hill Posted April 6, 2007 Report Share Posted April 6, 2007 On my boat the deck was much different because I wanted a casting platform. I made the deck cut out elliptical. I used door skin to get a pattern because I wanted the coaming to slant slightly forward. It ended up a swoop-shape. I then used three thicknesses of 1/8 inch and scarfed it to 3/8 inch for the sides. I didn't have coaming on the aft deck. When I was done the coaming was one piece and I really liked the look of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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