Brian Walters Posted March 3, 2007 Report Share Posted March 3, 2007 Hey, how y'all doin, I have a question I hope someone can answer, as my project is on hold till I figure this out. I am a total novice to boatbuilding, so everything I run into is new to me, I am building a Vacationer and have one side mostly on, I want to calk epoxy and paint inside the bow and lazeret arias before I put the other side on. My problem is, I cannot find 5200 calk anywhere, all I have availible is a small lumberyard, Lowes, and an ace hardware store which none of them carry it, I just bought a couple of tubes of pollyseamseal All purpose Adesive caulk, it says it's waterproof, Paintable, and has no silicone. is this any good to calk the seams below the waterline? I need to get it on the boat if it is, before I can epoxy and paint inside the bow. Thank You for Your help in advance. Brian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Oyster Posted March 3, 2007 Report Share Posted March 3, 2007 Brian, the caulking in my hull that you saw was PL window Door and Siding Sealant. Today is two years and has brought me home this evening once again, over 400 hours logged, and traditional planked and to this day after I don't know how many road miles and being pushed and pulled around the yard switching trailers, I am bating 1000 with little to no sea cracks, including the bottom. It flexes, bonds, cuts apart for redoes or misfits and so on. So fo the runon comments, but the only issues I have had is to let it cure completely before painting. It seems to skin over in a day in decent temperatures but requires some cure time for the stickyon top to go away. This is an issue if you prime and paint over it as you will get some problem with paint not drying properly. I buy it at Lowes. But some Lowes has quit carrying that one, even though they still sell other types of their brands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Pyeatt Posted March 4, 2007 Report Share Posted March 4, 2007 Brian, you would be better off to take the polyseamseal back. It works fine for caulking around bathtubs and sinks. But it just doesn't hold up in an outdoor environment. You can order 5200 from West Marine.com or a wide variety of online marine supply firms. The P&L sealants are formulated to work well in an outdoor environment including sealing around pools and patios, etc. where they get a pretty rugged workout. Where we used them on boats they held up well and were a whole lot easier to use and clean up than 5200. Also a whole lot less expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Walters Posted March 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2007 Thank you Oyster and Barry, I appreciate your quick replies, I beleve I saw some P L stuff at Lowes, I will take the other back and get the P L tomorow, Again Thank You. Brian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Walters Posted March 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2007 Well I went with the PL Window Door and Siding sealent like oyster suggested I went to wally world... No 5200 they said they did on line but no, I tried ace, nothing, then back to lowes with the polly seamseal, and I took a look and saw what Y'all said would work and I got it, I calked my whole bow aria, from what I saw online for a price on 5200 it would have cost an bunch, the pL stuff was waay cheaper, and was easy to clean. Again Thank Y'all. Brian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wild Dingo Posted March 5, 2007 Report Share Posted March 5, 2007 Brian' date=' the caulking in my hull that you saw was PL window Door and Siding Sealant. Today is two years and has brought me home this evening once again, over 400 hours logged, and traditional planked and to this day after I don't know how many road miles and being pushed and pulled around the yard switching trailers, I am bating 1000 with little to no sea cracks, including the bottom. It flexes, bonds, cuts apart for redoes or misfits and so on. So fo the runon comments, but the only issues I have had is to let it cure completely before painting. It seems to skin over in a day in decent temperatures but requires some cure time for the stickyon top to go away. This is an issue if you prime and paint over it as you will get some problem with paint not drying properly. I buy it at Lowes. But some Lowes has quit carrying that one, even though they still sell other types of their brands.[/quote'] Mike... not having a shot here just very curious... Are you saying you used only the door and window sealant on that boat? with no issues other than the drying curing painting ones? If so you have just solved one of the biggest issues Ive had!! ergo the major cost of even a small amount of epoxy and glass for a wee boat down here And if so I gotta say a bloody big... Thank you Cheers Shane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Oyster Posted March 5, 2007 Report Share Posted March 5, 2007 A caviat must be added here. Each and every single boat has its own speced out scantlings depending on certain construction methods. If a boat is built using scantlings that stand alone, and bedding compounds are used to seal areas between components, which fits the construction method that I chose in the last two hulls then yes this has worked for me. If the boat incoporates glass-epoxy construction with a core type construction, I cannot answer the question for you as each and every boat is so different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wild Dingo Posted March 6, 2007 Report Share Posted March 6, 2007 okay guess thats a yes... no worries cheers Shane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Oyster Posted March 6, 2007 Report Share Posted March 6, 2007 Shane replies: okay guess thats a yes... no worries cheers Shane Shane writes: Are you saying you used only the door and window sealant on that boat? Yes I am saying I used it on that boat. Oyster replies as a direct result of a meeting at a weekend gathering: Brian, the caulking in my hull that you saw was PL window Door and Siding Sealant That boat and the second boat built with it is plank on frame, 3/4" Cedar sides and Cypress bottom. The boat hull stands alone and only needed adhesive sealant in the joints. Shane writes: with no issues other than the drying curing painting ones? Oyster writes: but the only issues I have had is to let it cure completely before painting. Shane writes: ergo the major cost of even a small amount of epoxy and glass for a wee boat down here If a boat incorporated epoxy and glass in its hull construction, which I have no idea which hull you have in mind in your request, then I cannot say that you can of should forgo using glass and epoxy because of the expensive costs and work involved in the construction a the hull that you have in mind. So what hull are you specifically talking about in your request for clarification? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken connors Posted March 8, 2007 Report Share Posted March 8, 2007 Jamestown Distributors is having a special this month, free shipping on 3M products, if youre still interested in 5200. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capt jake Posted March 8, 2007 Report Share Posted March 8, 2007 Very simple solution for 3M5200...... Home Depot! They have it there in the small and large caulking tubes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Walters Posted March 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2007 Unfortunetly we dont have a home depot nearby, I think the nearest one is 50 miles away, I may be heading in that direction next week though as I finnaly found a 1/4" sheet of merenti, (very hard to find here) and have to go pick it up next week, thank you for the lead Capt Jake, and I am headed over to jamestown in a minute thank you Ken. I did use the PL that oyster suggested and it is pretty tough, I used it on my bow and it went pretty well, Brian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Jones Posted March 8, 2007 Report Share Posted March 8, 2007 Walmart carries 5200 in the tubes also, both the regular and fast cure- also 4200 in both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Walters Posted March 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2007 I tried Walmart the other day, they said that they carried it on the web but I went to the store and none, Now they may have just been out, there was no one to ask as it was a sunday and the place was nutz, and i was held up on my build so i got the PL and it went well and it seems to be pretty tough, however it does take a while to cure to paint. but I will keep my eye out at Wallmart though, and HD next week. Brian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capt jake Posted March 8, 2007 Report Share Posted March 8, 2007 My Local Walmart carries little toothpaste tubes of 5200' date=' but not caulking tubes of it.[/quote']Check both the building and boating sections of the store. I just got some 4200 there today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wild Dingo Posted March 8, 2007 Report Share Posted March 8, 2007 okay guess thats a yes... no worries cheersShane In other words thank you you have answered the question Mike Cheers Shane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted March 9, 2007 Report Share Posted March 9, 2007 My local Ace Hardware and Home Depot carry the 10 oz. cartridges (caulking gun thingies) for around 11 bucks, 9 bucks if on sale. Lowes stoped carrying it, probably because Home Depot does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Walters Posted March 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2007 Ok ,Well here is what I did, I went with what oyster sugested as it was the only option that time would allow and I am happy with it so far, I did trim all the edges before I painted as well... and here is what it looks like after paint... And last but not least the flotation, I am going to remove the foam pannels to glass the side of the foam facing out to toughen it up... Thank You for your Help. Brian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Oyster Posted March 14, 2007 Report Share Posted March 14, 2007 If I was doing that, I would not waste money or time on glassing the foam. The foam is so soft, that unless you use heavy glass, and even then the compression weakness is such that its done nothing. If I was doing that, make up some nice ceiling strips, and screw them to the hull stifeners. I am in a hurry right now, but if this is not a good enough description, let me know. You can use some spruce, using a sealer coat of minwax or even epoxy, to just seal them. Rip them 1/4 inch thick by 1/1/2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Posted March 14, 2007 Report Share Posted March 14, 2007 Yep! What Mike said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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