Hirilonde Posted January 21, 2007 Report Posted January 21, 2007 OK, fine, Garry proved it works a long time ago. And Vinegar Joe proved it again some time later. But today, even I succeeded in making it work! Thanks again Garry for access to your drawings and the on-line advice. I am very pleased with how it came out and look forward to launching this spring to try it in the water. I would like to fill/fair over the hardware. I am considering using West epoxy with 404 filler (a thicker version of the mix I used to bed it with). Then maybe put one layer of glass tape over it to reduce the chances of stress on the hardware cracking the filler. Any ideas on this or other suggestions would be appreciated. Speaking of launching; my friend at work whom I built the Minipaw for posed an interesting question. He wants to know if I will be having 2 launching parties: one for each half. What is the correct protocol here? And this question got me thinking (I know it is dangerous to do so, but sometimes I can't help it). Does each half need its own name? I am thinking of using a hyphenated name where each part goes with one half. Any help in this regards is appreciated as well. :wink: Quote
kmrmike Posted January 21, 2007 Report Posted January 21, 2007 With the nesting hardware as shown I would rough up the area as well as the metal materials, mix a slurry of epoxy and micro-glass fibers to fill the voids (I use micro-glass in structual areas), 2 layers of glass cloth, one slightly larger than the other then fair this into the rest of the hull...Just my 2 cents, I'm not a pro! Quote
Garry Posted January 22, 2007 Report Posted January 22, 2007 I recommend against fairing over the metal. Although you could add filler up to the edges if you reall want to. You may be able to get a half-way decent bond to the exposed surface of the metal but eventually it will break because of the differing expansion rates. Take a hot bottom stored on deck and toss it in the water. The rapid contraction will probably break the bond. :shock: Whatever the case, I doubt you will be able to prevent water from eventually penetrating. Stainless steel is susceptible to crevice corrosion. As long as it gets adequate oxygen [or its totally sealed from water] there is no corrosion. But in the small crevices that you might create, the SS is starved for oxygen [in the presence of water] and sets up a small corrosion cell. Stainless steel parts should be removed and rebedded routinely depending on the life of the sealant and the demand of the service. I would recommend that these parts be rebedded [and inspected] every year or two. So you don't want to cover them and prevent their removal. The dinghy looks great. I'm glad the design worked well for you. Quote
Charlie Jones Posted January 22, 2007 Report Posted January 22, 2007 Completely agree with Garry. Oh- and a hypenated name would be kewl! Quote
Steve Day Posted January 24, 2007 Report Posted January 24, 2007 Now Ray, that is a cool idea. Red Green needs to be further immortalized for all of those who don't know who he is. The Red Green in duct tape is pure genius. Steve Quote
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