Hirilonde Posted November 12, 2006 Report Share Posted November 12, 2006 I used a search and found many old threads on the subject and some good info. I do however have a specific question. While cleaning out the lumber loft at work I found a coil of solid bronze wire, propably 14 AWG or there abouts. My question should I choose to use it is; can I snip the knot off flush on the outside with the surface and just leave the rest of it in the ply and fillet? Bronze sands quite easily and is a very stable material but I was wondering if anyone knew of any reason why I should not leave some of it behind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P Doug (WA) Posted November 12, 2006 Report Share Posted November 12, 2006 I'm not an expert but I have read that the wires should be removed. With the movement of the wood swelling and shrinking they will eventually work out. Least that is what I think I read... :? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffM Posted November 12, 2006 Report Share Posted November 12, 2006 I expect that its the metal that might do more swelling and shrinking. Either way it sounds like an unnecessary risk, given how easy it is to remove them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillB Posted November 12, 2006 Report Share Posted November 12, 2006 It is assumed you filet between the wires then cut and pull out the wires and fill in the rest of the filet. It adds a day to the process waiting for the epoxy to dry before the second filet application. If you were thinking of running the filet right over the wire, then press the wire down into the 'V' created between the pieces and filet over. Keeping the holes uniform and close to the edge as prudent. You can then cut them off almost flush with the surface on the outside and grind/sand them flush or just a little below the wood surface. Remember you only do one side let it dry then do the other side. The wires will be visable if you intended to keep the inside hull bright. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Cameron Posted November 12, 2006 Report Share Posted November 12, 2006 I may be a bit confused (I often am), but I thought that you did the whole fillet and then pulled the wires ( as opposed to filleting between the wires). You can make a mixture of epoxy and cabosil and use your putty knife to work it into the holes when you flip the boat. Do many of you do the two step fillet operation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffM Posted November 12, 2006 Report Share Posted November 12, 2006 Yes, I tabbed between the wires, let it set pretty hard, pulled the wires, then completed the fillets. It doesn't involve any thumb-twiddling wasted days, since I would be tabbing today's stretch of seam, and then pulling wires and filleting yesterday's stretch. I was advised that I could fillet over the wires, then use heat to melt the wires loose, but I found it easier to tab instead. Any wires that got a bit of epoxy on them could be pulled with a little extra leverage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Jones Posted November 13, 2006 Report Share Posted November 13, 2006 I use heat. I fillet right over the wires, then clip one side of the outside as flush as I can. Then I heat the other end with either a soldering gun, or if I'm in a hurry I use my oxycetlene torch with the smallest blow pipe on. Heat the end red hot, let it sit for a few seconds for the epoxy to soften and pull it out. Takes a very short time to do that. Tabbing also works, but I hate to lose the day. I usually fillet and lay the glass into the wet fillet and keep on rolling. But your bronze wires should be fine They will after all be under at least one layer and probably two layers of glass . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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