Anchor Rode - Three strand vs double braid nylon

[Dale Niemann]

Anybody have any opinions on the cost vs benefits for using double braid nylon instead of three strand for anchor rodes?

My understanding is that the double braid is easier to handle & coil, stronger with less stretch and about twice as much.

[Charlie Jones]

first, stretch is one of the things you definitely DO want in an anchor rode. So there 3 strand wins.

Secondly, 3 strand is far simpler to splice. I use a chain to rode splice on all my anchors and have for years. No difficult eye splices to make like there would be with double braid.

Once 3 strand is properly "unkinked" I have never had much difficulty coiling it OR just dropping it down a deck pipe into a rope/chain locker.

3 strand is cheaper too and with the ease of splicing, you can just cut off an end and resplice when needed. Even sitting on the bow underway.

Actually on my boat ( 5300 pound Meridian 25) I use all chain on the bower, or at least a 75 foot section of it, so 90 % of the time I'm laying to all chain anyway. I back that up with 200 feet of 1/2 3 strand nylon.

My second anchor also has a 200 foot section of 3 strand 1/2 nylon on it.

[Dale Niemann]

Thanks Charlie & Ray.

Glad to see everybody in agreement.

I will go with the nylon 3 strand.

Charlie, do you splice the rope directly to the chain? Do you use a thimble? Or do you use a shackle to connect rope to chain? I am assuming you use a shackle to attach the chain to the anchor. Are your chains what I think they call proof coil hot dipped galvanized?

[Charlie Jones]

My chains are 1/4 High Test, galvanised. I get the effect of chain, with less weight than proof coil or BBB and can carry more of it. Tehani isn't a really big boat. I don't use a windlass as I really don't need it on this boat- she's small enough I can pull her around without one. So can Laura at 5'2" and 107 pounds. On a bigger boat I'd have a windlass.

The splice I use is a regular backsplice directly through the last chain link- two strands go through one way, the third runs the other, then I lay in the back splice. There is no thimble and no chafe since the splice is tight and doesn't move. This lets me use a smaller deck pipe ( NOT a hawse pipe by the way) than I would need if I had a shackle and thimble. My setup is exactly like what West Marine sells in their premade rodes by the way.

If it SHOULD eventually show chafe, it's about a 10 minute job to lay in another splice. And Laura can do it if I don't have time.

I use a shackle between the anchor and chain, with a stainless wire seizing. Don't like pins coming loose.

I also use AT LEAST one size heavier anchor than what is recommended for what ever boat I have. Tehani carries a 22 pound Claw ( S/L version of the Bruce) as her main anchor. The back up is a Hi Tensile Danforth 12 pounder. The third anchor when we are cruising away from home, is a 15 pound Northill and the 4th is a 4 pound Danforth for incidental uses.

We just cruised from Port Lavaca Texas to Penascola Florida and return, anchoring almost every night for the month long trip. NEVER moved nor did I have the slightest wory about dragging.

[Garry]

I concur with splicing the rope directly to the chain. There are several sites that show how to do it. Its relatively easy to do. One site recommends putting a piece of heat shrink tubing over the turns that go through the chain but I doubt that helps. The rope is only going to fray if there is movement between the rope and the chain link. With this splice there is little to no movement and therefore, little to no wear. The heat-shrink tubing might help but it would also prevent inspection. These splices should be replaced every so often depending on your use, perhaps annually for heavy use, every 2-3 years for light use. Splicing a used rope is more difficult so it makes double sense to reverse the ends.

A big advantage for windlass users is that these splices will pass through a chain/rope gypsy. A shackle would prevent using a windlass.

On my 36' ketch, I have two rodes with 75' of chain and 200' of rope. I always set enough rode to use the nylon rope as a shock absorber. I get the advantages of an all chain rode without the weight. There is plenty of chain to be lifted off the bottom before disturbing the anchor. I think an all chain rode simply adds unnecessary weight hanging off the bow.

[Charlie Jones]

Garry- I use a chain hook on about a 10 foot a chunk of nylon as a snubber when using less than my 75 feet of chain. Since Tehani only draws 3'3" we often are in 6 to 7 feet. I really don't like anchoring in less than 6 anyway. I just hook the snubber to the chain outboard of the roller and let some slack into the chain. Then I ride to the nylon snubber and the chain is still made fast through the bow roller. The snubber is always attached to a bow cleat and I use it to secure the anchor when it's stowed- double usage ya know.

Also takes the strain and shock loads off the roller and puts them through a chock.

[Dale Niemann]

Thanks guys for the additional info.