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Paint Question.


Denis Goyette

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Guest Oyster

I will only add one item of business when discussing paints. Use too much primer on your epoxy. This does more to extend the life of your enamel than anything else. And don't be afraid of four coats of topcoat in the beginning, at minimum. If you have used epoxy to seal wood, or glass and epoxy to coat your hull, there will be some post curing that will take place and a thin layer of enamel over say one or two coats of well sanded primers, will break the topcoat down and the elements will do the rest unless dealt with even in that first season.

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i used latex enamel - first time i used a satin coat and it didn't clean up well so i've switched to high gloss and really love it. now that the boat is in and out of the water i can really see that the water is an added unknown in paint life. The latex enamel is holding up really well - it hasn't seen a vegas summer yet but that is on the way. it laid down nice and there are no chips or flaking. i also like how easy touch up is. i used a gripper primer for glossy surfaces on the epoxy instead of a fancy primer but haven't had any noticable problems from shrinkage etc.

my 2cents

a.

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I used Dupont Imron polyurethane. It is widely used in the marine oil-rig, aircraft and automotive industry. Very durable, and very toxic. You need good organic vapour respirators, and the knowledge of spraying (and the equipment of course). I have been using this paint for years and it is one of the most durable finishes I've ever seen. Most paints you can take a 3M scrub pad and scuff them with it... this one you can't !!! You have to use good sandpaper to get any scratches in it if you want to re-paint. It does not oxidyse, so you don't have to buff, wax or anything. Touch up is fairly good too. Just a matter of spraying the darned thing on your boat... after that, no problem. Just remember to use a sealer coat (Dupont)before paint coat. It is also quite pricy compared to domestic latex, in other words you're looking at about $350CDN/gal (we've used 2gal for the vacationer). After using this paint I wouldn't even consider anything less than this, unless you're planning on doing this every couple of seasons which adds up over the years anyway, nevermind the effort involved in refinishing. Short of this, you could use latex :-) and see how long it lasts.

My 2CDN cents on boat paint.

Good luck

Florin

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Guest Oyster

I am very familiar with the Imron. In most people's situation here, I do not recommend it, in the learining phase of boating period. Dinging it, which will happen for the beginners with the learning curve of boat handling in close quarters, and repairing it to eliminate the patchwork look, and added amounts of prep work and caution in the intial building process is very important because of the high gloss that shows every single flaw and inperfection in the true fairness of most hulls, for the first time boat builder. This is more of a fact than a slap on anyone. The primers cost as much as the paints, toxic fumes and added work sanding the primers after too long of curing times, will give you a royal pain in the stern.

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I use latex semi gloss on the hull and rustolium satin above the lower rail and on the deck and house. Both art easy to touch up and the price is right. My bottom paint lasted 6 seasons and was in good shape but a repair job on some rotton wood forced a repaint. Then don't you know I couldn't find the color code. The new paint is not really blue enough.

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I used a different paint tactic on my boat. I want to repaint mine every couple years. Imron and awlgrip as stated, is the toughest paint systems going. I chose a paint system that sands easy. I can sand prep and repaint my hull exterior in a day. Take a mil off and put one on, trying to somewhat keep a thin coat on. I had awlgrip sprayed on my FG boat and when I got scratched or dinged,because of the lack of a paint booth and all the equipment needed,I would procrastinate getting it redone if ever. I want to be able to easily renew this or change color once I get tired of this one. Awlgrip or Imron will eat sandpaper like it's free and alot of folks end up using aircraft stripper to get it off.Another mess. I needed something I could do outside with a brush. Depending on the size of one's boat and the availability of a pro paint applicator makes a difference too. Mine is a small skiff and is actually pleasant to put a coat of paint on. I used brightsides which as many hate as will as many like it. Also,being my boat is glued lap, I wanted faint brush strokes to grain the planks somewhat to kind of keep it looking like a wood boat.The brush marks disappeared tho and all I can see is the 320 grit scratches from the sandpaper.Fortunately,I sanded lengthwise with the planks so that the grain looks correct. You have to stare at it from a foot away to see it. Almost too glossy. I love the smell of oil based paint. :)

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Though I don't have a picture of it, this paint is very tough. I used to sail in jeans with the rivets in the back pockets (no longer). At the end of the day there would be all sorts of what looked like scratches in he cockpit. After a little buffing with some wax, you can't even see where the marks were.

Yesterday, whe I got in the boat, I forgot that I kad my keys in my back posket. I had them hooked in place with a caribiner. The caribiner made some really wonderful marks in the seat in about 2 minutes. :roll: :roll: A littel wax again and all will be good as new. :) When it was recommended to me I was told it was "run into the dock hard". Uhh....that's true; don't ask me how I know. ;):)

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Any paint finish will only be as good as the prep work before you actually apply the paint. A good primer base is a real bonus if you want a good looking finish that will be a better than average looking job.

There have been a lot of discussions on Paint and prep work and a search will bring them up.

In order of quality of finish as far as durability is concerned uing other than "Marine Paints?.

Softest and easiest to apply is good old Latex house paint. I would recommend Behr Exterior Latex Semi Gloss as a good tough lasting, easily applied paint with good color selection and easy to touch up when you get an Owwwwwwie. Will last minimum of 4 seasons of setting out in the weather without any attention.

Up from there is Gloss Porch and Deck enamel. Again I recommend Behr. This is a tougher stuff and will hold up well even with some abuse. Also easy to touchup and make spot repairs if necessary. Higher level of gloss and stronger formulation.

Next higher is one part polyurethanes. Tougher yet, high gloss shine, easily applied with roller/brush, brush on or spray. Oil based preferred again. Generally a limited color selection but can be tinted in some brands.

Highest quality would be a two part linear Polyurethane. Multiple coats, last coat has a cross linker that bonds all the coats together. A couple color coats over a good primer base and then a coat or two of clear with the cross linker on the final coat and it will wear extremely well. Can be rolled/tipped with excellent results but needs good ventilation when working. Levels very well. but hard to spot touch up.

Then into some of the automotive with spray applications. Not Wagner airless type though. HVLP systems really to do a good job.

Yes, Brightsides for a really good quality "Marine" paint. But honestly, the two part polyurethanes will outlast them and have a much better color selection. And for the less than totally fanatic "boat" finisher, too much work to apply and maintain the marine paints with less of a life span.

With care and some minor attention, and cleaning after every outing, even latex enamel will last a long time and look good. And by far is the easiest and most cost effective to work with.

But with primers, pick a good quality, high build alkyd based primer or get used to using Kilz, which is excellent and wonderful to work with.

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