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CS17 -- aft deck or seat?


Charles Neuman

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I like my aft deck. I perch on it sometimes for the view. Also, I suspect boarding over the transom is a little easier with the deck than without--no sharp edges to climb over. My lazarette hatch is in the bulkhead, and I find the storage it affords to be very generous: the lazarette is about as big as the forepeak, and much more accessable underway.

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You can have a little of each- a seat higher than the other seats. The helmsman can see over taller passengers. Getting over the transom is no problem I've found it the best way to launch. Set the sails push and jump in. I took the idea from the Haven 12 1/2 -not a bad design to steal from.

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That's a good idea for the raised seat.

When you make it with a seat instead of a deck, do you place the aft bulkhead in the same place (as opposed to having a different bulkhead placed further aft)? I assume so. That would give an aft seat that is about 2 feet deep, which is deeper than the side seats. I can't quite read the dimensions of many photos, but that seems like it's reasonable.

Charles

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I did a raised seat approach on my CS17 with the large folding hatch, I've got great access for my ice box (presently under construction), my trolling motor and the battery. I believe the seat will be my favorite perch when sailing next summer! I'll post some finished shots in a couple of weeks.

I found mocking things like this up with cardboard and duct tape is a good first step. Seeing it in 3D really helps sort out questions like you're having! Good luck.

Tom

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Thanks everyone!

The plans show how to make the transom frame stronger if there is no aft deck. It also says to make it even stronger if there is an outboard. What modifications are necessary for a small outboard, such as a 2 or 4 hp?

Also, as long as I'm bulking up the transom frame, I might as well consider making it solid. Anybody do that? What would be the suggested thickness? 3/4"?

Thanks,

Charles

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Don't do the solid wood transom as there is lots of potential for solid wood to swell, shrink, cup or move at the seams, whereas the ply transom is dimensionally stable and seamless. Just put the 1 x 6 across the top of the transom and a vertical 1 x 6 capped with 1/4" ply for the outboard. Most builders put the outboard out to the side so that you don't need to unship the rudder when you mount the outboard.

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I have used those plastic breadboards with good luck. They are very much like Starboard which is the industry standard for shop built fittings on boats .

There is one point I would like to remind everyone of, the mizzen sheets like to foul on anything that they can. I have found it necessary to keep the stern clean of anything that can catch a sheet. I don't use stern cleats preferring to put U-bolts on the transom to tie the boat to. Outboards are just to designed to snarl the sheets. Round over the top aft end of the rudder/ tiller. The sheets won't foul while tacking but when you gybe the sheets will hook on anything that is not rounded over.

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Thanks Graham for your input.

Stinkpots are always a problem with sailboats. I don't like them much but decided it would be nice to have when the wind died. In fact, this is my first sailboat ever to have a motor in about 30 years of sailing.

On the environmental side, I am just finishing a set of oars to the plans I received from Graham. I will post a photo later.

One other thing I will mention. When I met Graham at the WaterTribe event last year he pointed out to me that the U-bolts on the transom should be mounted vertically so that's what I am planning to do.

Net, mizzen sheet will not foul the U-bolts or the rudder tiller. Of course, I am sure they will somehow miss the motor also.

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