mrthethird Posted November 14, 2005 Posted November 14, 2005 I got to lookin at the specs on this Weldwood plastic resin glue, and it says "not recommended to be used under 70*F". Even with the heater in the garage, I won't see 70* until early spring. I know there are other builder out there farther north than me, have you had any trouble with this glue, or do I need to use something else? Quote
adla Posted November 14, 2005 Posted November 14, 2005 i've been using tightbond III on my triad - dunno if it is recommended or not for those temps but i am pretty happy with it. I had to remove a stringer that i put on in a bad spot and well - that is some serious glue. a. Quote
Stump Posted November 14, 2005 Posted November 14, 2005 I glued up my keep in about 45-50 F. In the rain. Took longer to "cure" but I have had no problems. Quote
Wild_Dingo Posted November 14, 2005 Posted November 14, 2005 aaahh so now a thread on glue... I was wondering the other week what glue to use on the keel and stem... but couldnt find a single thread on it... so not having any of that two part stuff thats spoken of in the plans I just bunged on some white pva glue screwed it together and crossed fingers!!!... so far so good... mmm well shes still a long way from getting water on her... and a long way from finished... mmm an summers almost here... and we get FLAMIN HOT down here for the next few months Wonder if it will hold???? damn! and here I was content to just do it and ignore it!!! :twisted: well I am plannin on covering the lot with epoxy at a later date!! 8) Quote
Barry Pyeatt Posted November 14, 2005 Posted November 14, 2005 I"ve used the polyurethanes like Gorilla Glue in temps down to 40 degrees and had no problems with the bond. Just takes a while to set up completely. Better though if it is in the 50s at least. Quote
barnacle5 Posted November 25, 2005 Posted November 25, 2005 refresh my memory but in the old sam rabl" boatbuilding in your own backyard" he speaks of resorcinal glues. isn't this the same as the white Elmer's glue or similar? I have been thinking it was. I strip planked my titmouse and glued it up with the liquid nails type cartridge glue ( I had it and it was convienient) been holding about 17 years or so. just curious about that resorcinal glue the plans speak of. any light on the subject appreciated. barnacle bill Quote
Barry Pyeatt Posted November 25, 2005 Posted November 25, 2005 No not the same at all as Elmer's White Glue. I've use a lot of resorcinal glues in the past and they have all been powder type glues that mix with water to form a fairly thick and very sticky glue. Never had a joint fail in other than Teak where the oil content prevented as strong a joint as I would like to have had. They were the first of the really solid marine quality glues and could be used in temps down to about 55 degrees without issues. They required coating of both surfaces and good clamping pressure and cleanup of squeeze out material as sit would stain the surface if left to cure and then removing it. So subsequent stains would not take well where it had cured. They are still available and have uses in marine fabrication but there are so many good quality glues available today that are much more convenient to use that they don't have much popularity. Not sure that they would survive the boiling in water test but I never had them fail under normal conditions. The wood would always split before the joint would fail except with oily woods like Teak. Easily repaired with epoxies. Quote
Stump Posted November 25, 2005 Posted November 25, 2005 hey, wasn't there a good thread on this a while back...and wasn't BobSmalser testing various glues? And what about Bob? :wink: Where has he been lately? :shock: Quote
timnphx Posted November 25, 2005 Posted November 25, 2005 I used the Elmers Wood glue once on a strip-ceder canoe that I built 10 years ago while living in Portland, OR and it held ok but also it was then covered with the poly type fiberglas. After having the canoe here in Arizona sun and having to strip the glass off and redo, I noted some degrading in the glue joints. The Lil Maruader I built, I used the Gudgeon Brothers Epoxy, both the 205 and 206. A two part mix of course but this stuff really holds. Also when I was ready to put on the fiberglas layer on this boat I talked to a guy that does fiberglas as his business and he told me that if i use the epoxy glue like Gudgeon Bros than should use epoxy fiberglas which was more expensive. However, if I used the poly-type fiberglas it might lift at the points where I might have the epoxy glue still showing at joints. So I used the epoxy fiberglas mix he had which was a 1:1 with a 90 min potting time at 85 deg which was great for me here when I was working on my boat in June and hitting the 90's or more. :oops: Quote
Frank Hagan Posted November 25, 2005 Posted November 25, 2005 You can get poly and vinylester to stick to epoxy, but there are some steps that have to be taken to make a successful bond. A lot of people say it can't be done, but I think West System even has an article on how to do it. I used to be among those that thought it was impossible until I was corrected by a boatbuilder that has done it successfully in the past, and he pointed out the article by West Systems. Quote
Dave Fleming Posted November 25, 2005 Posted November 25, 2005 Usual Caveat: These are my own personal opinions... Resorcinol is a 2 part glue, one part powder, one part liquid. It is best used in some type of enclosed environment. Marinette Marine and Peterson Builders in Wisconsin, USA used it extensively in the building of wooden mine sweepers in the early 1950's in the fabrication of White Oak laminated frames. The glue takes a goodly amount of clamping pressure and proper temperature to set up. It got a bit of a bad reputation when it first became available to the general boat building world. Folks did not take the time to read the instructions fully or just didn't read them at all. A number of significant failures happened with White Oak in particular. Weldwood Plastic Resin is a creme coloured powder mixed with water to a creamy consistency. It requires a temp above 65 or so F. degrees and HIGH clamping pressure. White PVA should never be used except for light household repairs or temporary items. It is not waterproof and it creeps under load. So called 'carpenters glue' is a variation of the original formula modified to improve some of the poor working qualities of white PVA. Mr.S. is doing an emperical testing of some newer adhesives mentioned in at least one thread over on the WB Forums but, the results will not be available until sometime in December. I have used both Resorcinal and Plastic Resin with success in both boat building and out door furniture making. I am quite sure I mentioned here in a previous post on glue, some out door furniture I made out of Redwood for The Sonoma Cheese Factory have been in continous use for over 30 years in Sonoma, California, 7/24/365 using Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue. There are a number of more modern adhesives that I have used in small quantities but, I do not feel qualified to speak yea or nay about them. Quote
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