capt jake Posted October 11, 2005 Report Share Posted October 11, 2005 My horse (it's really small; let's call it a pony ) is adjustable. I can tighten it up, eliminating any slack. this limits the distance that the boom can travel. When properly tightened, the blocks don't even reach a point equivalent to the padeyes that the pony ( )is attached to. It really works pretty slick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adla Posted October 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2005 i sure don't mind sharing ugly close-ups do i? i didn't through bolt the gaff jaws - underestimating the force up there when the wind blows. So, when the glue sets...the jaws will get through bolted, sanded and varnished. Jake - i saw the part you are talking about but don't really understand why that would keep the line from twisting.... :? Dave - my number one problem was in the sheet handling - i had nothing cleated off on the jib and held the main in one hand and the two jib sheets in the other...a real problem. This will be fixed before my next sail - thanks for your help. a. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capt jake Posted October 11, 2005 Report Share Posted October 11, 2005 Jake -i saw the part you are talking about but don't really understand why that would keep the line from twisting.... I wish I could electronically draw. :oops: :roll: The way I am seeing it, this would eliminate on turn around one block, hopefully being enough to eliminate the twist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bud_Wilson Posted October 11, 2005 Report Share Posted October 11, 2005 The horse set up one way is posted on http://www.messing-about.com/gaffrig/3sheet.jpg 5/22/2005 I have mine a little different but that will work. I have the dead end tied off to the boom running down to a single block that I have mounted on a I bolt with a spring so it will stand up back up to the block on the boom down to the block on the other side mounted to a swivel cam base. I made it clear as mud didn't I anyway I like this set up. I thought the horse got it's name because it looks like a saw horse from back of the boat. Y'ALL COME Cap'N Bud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adla Posted October 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2005 nice image bud - that makes sense. as promised: i assure u this cheap camera did not capture the blue/purpley-ness of this fish nor the brightness of their widdle yellow lips. a. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave R1 Posted October 11, 2005 Report Share Posted October 11, 2005 Noel, you are correct that with an arrangement like mine you can't sheet the sail in to the centerline. To tell the truth, I haven't ever come across a need to have it sheeted in that close anyway. I have considered a traveler but haven't solved the problem with access to my lazarette it would create. I also don't think I want anymore lines to deal with. Jake, In adding the bridle to your gaff would you eliminate the block on the gaff? :?: If that's what you're planning, it does make a bit of sense because it would shorten the halyard and reduce the amount of line coiled up on deck (cabin roof) but it would increase the effort required to hoist the peak. When you talk about twist are you referring to the peak halyard getting a twist in it between the block on the gaff and the double block on the mast? I had that problem with mine but I figured it out. First, I induced the twist by the way I coiled the double braid. Second, the block on the gaff was a swivel block. I changed that block out for a non swiveling one and took the halyard off the boat to push the twist out. Since doing that, there hasn't been a problem with it. I am hoping to make a new gaff this winter. Mainly because I don't like the jaws I made. I intend to put the gaff span block on a bridle when I get to that point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
umop_apisdn Posted October 11, 2005 Report Share Posted October 11, 2005 I am currently using the same 'inverted-v' setup pictured in Bud's link "Four-part sheet without traveller". It works well to keep the sheet up away from the tiller handle, but I still don't like it. The four-part purchase makes it so I have to pull too much line around when tacking. In theroy, I suppose you wouldn't have to touch the main sheet when tacking, but it never seems to work that way for me. :-) I always get wound up in what seems like yards and yards of mainsheet that I have to pull through all those blocks. I'll give this 'horse' setup a try next time, because it looks like I can quickly change between 4, 3, or 2 part purchase while out on the lake, and see what I like best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave R1 Posted October 11, 2005 Report Share Posted October 11, 2005 Somewhere I saw a mainsheet setup that gave two options for purchase depending upon how you grab the sheet. It seems to me that if you grabbed only one part you got the long pull-low effort of a lot of purchase and if you grabbed both parts, it was short pull and higher effort. I really haven't found the need for more purchase than I currently have and it seems I have about the shortest mainsheet you could have without having it drop from the boom at the aft end of the cockpit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adla Posted October 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2005 so...my gaff jaws are re-glued and just fine. What compelling reason could be behind using threaded rod rather than a long galvanized bolt for through bolting...i am thinking just long enough and wood plugs over the ends. Either way - if the jaws break again...they will be made into cleats and i will start the gaff over again. of course once i get the gaff back on...i will figure out how to get it to behave before i put the sail back on. the horse set up will be nice since the problem i had was letting go of the sheet and losing the main in the water (windy towards the end of the day - and how the jaws broke) - i am not worried about sheeting in tight since my compulsion is to let out on the sheet as soon as the boat starts moving my poor Pa who missed the launch has days off around thanksgiving...lOoks like that might be the soonest we get in the water again but how fun. He's the one with the boat building gene. I was real sad when he couldn't be there. a. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bud_Wilson Posted October 12, 2005 Report Share Posted October 12, 2005 Umop_apisdn : Next time out try the dead end to your boom first then to the block on the side,back to the block on the boom then to the block on the other side. It only takes a min. to rig it and if you don't like it no longer to unrig. Y'ALL COME Cap'N Bud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
umop_apisdn Posted October 12, 2005 Report Share Posted October 12, 2005 i am not worried about sheeting in tight since my compulsion is to let out on the sheet as soon as the boat starts moving heh heh heh. I totally know what you mean. That was me my first few trips out. You get over it. Although Tim will attest that there were a couple times last Sunday that I chickened out and let the mainsheet go in some gusts. I still need to replace the shrouds (currently made of some unknown type of rope) with either cable or some non-stretch rope. I am seeing way more flex in my mast hinge than I am comfortable with. Noel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adla Posted October 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2005 i took Barry's advice on the shrouds - i used cable (like 30$ worth) and used one cable on either side...i have the thimble and clamps on the turnbuckles and then just one loop and thimble at the top of the mast so One solid cable for each of the two side stays (makeshift spreader -eyebolt at the top) --> the part that was Barry's advice : strip the vinyl cable where the thimble and swagges go...i double swagged and put a safety end on...then covered it in heat shrink. the swaggers were 25 bucks but i have been swagging things for my brother and friends ever since (priceless - the way people need a favor when they know you have a tool) a. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave R1 Posted October 12, 2005 Report Share Posted October 12, 2005 Adla, you asked about using threaded rod instead of a bolt on your gaff jaws. That seems like a good idea to me. Use locking nutswith flat washers. Counterbore the hole for plugs and you'll be all set. You might also consider threading just the ends of a piece of unthreaded rod. It could be run into a tight hole and make better contact with the hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capt jake Posted October 12, 2005 Report Share Posted October 12, 2005 Jake, In adding the bridle to your gaff would you eliminate the block on the gaff? Question If that's what you're planning, it does make a bit of sense because it would shorten the halyard and reduce the amount of line coiled up on deck (cabin roof) but it would increase the effort required to hoist the peak.When you talk about twist are you referring to the peak halyard getting a twist in it between the block on the gaff and the double block on the mast? I had that problem with mine but I figured it out. First, I induced the twist by the way I coiled the double braid. Second, the block on the gaff was a swivel block. I changed that block out for a non swiveling one and took the halyard off the boat to push the twist out. Since doing that, there hasn't been a problem with it. Yes, it would eliminate the block on the gaff, I don't feel that I would have to exert that much more effort to raise it. I did the oppposite, converted a non-swivel block to a swivel one in an effort to eleiminate the twist. Neither configuration seems to have stopped the twist though. Straightening out the line only worked for a couple of times out, then it was back to it's miserable twisty self again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave R1 Posted October 12, 2005 Report Share Posted October 12, 2005 Maybe you should switch over to 3-strand rope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adla Posted October 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2005 Dave - that would give me an excuse to buy a good tap and die set...now wouldn't it. a. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave R1 Posted October 13, 2005 Report Share Posted October 13, 2005 No one should need an excuse to buy more tools. If you're going to do that, you could even make the nuts for the ends of the rod. Remember to break the chips frequently so you don't break the tap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capt jake Posted October 13, 2005 Report Share Posted October 13, 2005 On my gaff I simply epoxied it and use large wood crews. It has held up fine adn shows no evidence of cracks. If you buy a tap and die set, DO buy a good one. You'll pay a great deal more for it, but there are much better than the cheapos. Ask me how I know! :roll: I still have the el sheapo as I seldom really need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adla Posted October 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2005 Dave - i really don't know why i don't own one...and :wink: i've done my share of tapping and threading...i used to rebuild honda 4 stroke motors (5hp and up) - and i have done my share of steel inserts in aluminum blocks because some hunyuck didn't start threading the case bolt by hand and stripped the aluminum threads. i saw a gx160 on the back of someone's truck the other day and it made me smile.... i'm patient and know to back off and clear the chips.... this is definately not a purchase for Harbor Freight...hehehehe a. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adla Posted October 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2005 ok - after todays episode of lifting the mast checking the lines - lowering the mast re-running lines - lifting the mast - lowering the mast etc. :roll: :roll: :roll: i have accomplished 1 big thing...both the peak and the throat are run on double blocks and now lower and raise at the same rate....i need to re-run the throat line (minor change) and then i am good. thinking of making my own fair leads out of mahogany - and running both lines back to the cockpit - i saw a great thread about this. Dave and Frank - your arrangements look good. i have bell envy. as long as the corners of the sail are attached well to the spars - is there a reason to lace rather than loop the rest of the eyebolts on separately??? i know - dumb question - can't help it. a. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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