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CS20 #80


Brad
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Starting to resent the boat.

You resent the boat? I would also resent the boat that has not been in the water yet, but after doing all of that work, it has the whole back end out of it.

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I've gotta tip for you...before you fillet the hull.

Run a straight edge along the stringer in the center of the hull and make sure it is flat! Mine sagged about 1.5" and I have more rocker to my hull than is specified. Graham says thats OK. Will ride a bit nicer in chop. But I would have rather had it right.

Learn from other's mistakes...best motto I can think of!!!

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Brad, I wired the bulkhead to the bottoms before wiring the chines -- following the plans, rather than the pictures on the CD. I had two problems: 1. the bottom refused to take the curve of the bulkhead, so there was a substantial gap at the keel. 2. the bow wouldn't come together with wires alone (I broke many). In the end, both problems were solved the same way: I bought threaded rod. One threaded rod went through the bulkhead beam and through the keel line into a piece of 2x4 for purchase. This didn't completely close the gap, but it almost did. A second threaded rod went through the sides in the same place I had blocks to reiforce the original butterfly butt joints. I may have set myself up for these problems by epoxy-coating all the pieces before I started. If I had it to do over, I'd leave the outsides of curves uncoated.

ps: I've never cursed like a sailor -- a minor handicap at times like these!

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Thanks for the tips guys. I'll probably need all the help I can get.

Jeff, did you put the forward bulkhead in before tightening the bow wires? At the bottom of the "HULL PANEL INSTRUCTIONS" sheet my plans say "Drill and wire tie the butterfly. Wire the bow firmly and the keel line loosely. Open the butterfly out, the bow is drawn in and the wings fly out to the sides."

That's how I did mine and was pleasantly surprised at how well it worked. The 12" butt and tape joint attaching the sides to the bottom didn't seem to have much strain on it and I didn't need to tighten the bow wires after unfolding the panels.

I do like your all thread bolt idea for closing the gap at the bottom of the forward bulkhead. I have about a half inch gap that I'm going to try to close with some more wire adjustments but if that doesn't work I may try the all thread.

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Brad I closed up the gap on my belhaven by screwing a wood block on each side of the gap. Then using a bar clamp to draw them together. That worked real well for me. I could'nt find a picture.

A major mistake I wish I could take back was pulling the hull together at the # bulkhead with a turnbuckle. It pulled the the hull together but there was a dent on both sides of the hull that had to be faired out. I don't think its quite right today. Here is a picture of it.

post-192-129497643814_thumb.jpg

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Brad, I seem to have an old version of this page: "Work forward of the (center) frame until it begins to draw the stem together, place and wire the forward bulkhead. Continue to wire and tighten stem until the bow comes together." I'm glad the instructions have been improved or clarified.

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  • 10 years later...

If this thread refers to Core Sound 20 #80, the boat has been completed and launched in 2016. It passes every boat it encounters. Thanks to Brad, Jackie and Mike Monies, Graham Byrnes, Rick Pratt and the crew at Farley Boat Works. Special thanks to Clay Terrell (Core Sound 17) for all the tips and guidance. 2 masts and so fast.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I don't know if I can post pics from my phone. I have some taken by someone on a different that was interested by the CS 20 rig.

I would like to sail with other CS boats to help gauge performance and learn about sail handling and trim. Is there a list of CS owners in upper midwest, specifically Minneapolis area?

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