Sinister finish flaws

[Mark Gudschinsky]

We had to pull The Flyer back from the lake last weekend for minor repairs. Cracks and blisters began to show on the seat bottoms. There we also a few small cracks and blisters in the radiuses at the cockpit floor. As all of you know who have Weekenders, the inside of the boat can spend as much time being wet as the outside. (From rain etc. while sitting on the trailer.) So I was afraid that water was seeping through the cracks and soaking the wood below.

I didn't glass the topside or cockpit, but did use good paint so I've decided to do a patching now with serious repairs to come this winter.

When I scraped away the paint on the seats I discovered some moisture had gotten under the finish and softened the plywood revealing several voids. The wood I used on the seats was a bit of 3/4" that was free for the taking, and it appears that I got full value. So I'll dry it out and seal it up and replace the seat this winter.

What prompts this post though is the cracks and blisters at the cockpit floor. it appears that in three or four spots the bondo lost its grip on the wood and formed cracks. The worst spot (1" x 3") happened on a vertical piece of fir, two other spots were at the forward base of the cabin bulkhead. There the bondo cracked along the seam between the bottom and the bulkhead. At this point there is no rot or serious damage, and I am reminded of a post I read in which the author said he would never again use bondo as "eventually it would act as a sponge and wreck the boat."

This is a young boat just starting it's third year built with Okumee. So the question becomes during this winters planed repairs what should I be planning? Simple drying out and repairs? Glassing the cockpit? Sail it with blinders on an start planning my replacement! (Unlikely).

[Mike Pennington]

Dang bondo! :twisted:

Sorry to here the bad news Mark. The finish of the Flyer looks so much nicer than my thirty foot finish on my Vacationer.

At least you have that way cool boat house you built to work in.

The new job search looks like it is paying off, Joan and I both have interviews this coming week. The one positive thing I am looking forward to in moving, is the prospect of a large garage to work in this winter.

Good luck in the repair work.

Mike

[Frank Hagan]

Bondo uses a filler that will wick up water if given the chance. It works outside on cars because the auto paint over it is pretty good at keeping water off.

I would dig out any soft / wet / rotted places, fill the places up with more Bondo or epoxy/filler mix, and then paint on three to five coats of epoxy to seal up the Bondo. Then apply your cockpit paint. If you used okume on the cockpit floor you don't really need to use fiberglass, but it would add more resistance to gouges allowing water to the Bondo or wood surface.

[Mark Gudschinsky]

Initial repairs are half done. Cosmetic touches will be complete this weekend. Next week I'm getting Friday off so we'll make it a three dayer at the lake.

After doing some of the repairs I think glassing the seats and cockpit floor are in order. But it can wait till our short season is over.

AND Mike, what is this about interviews already? Seams only right the fleet should be bound by conscription or some other heavy or under handed means till the mission, I mean seasons is complete!

At this rate we're going to have to lure a few others into boat building and sailing. But it will be tough to add another big ol' Vacationer to the roster. Let alone captianed by someone who actually knows how to sail!

[Craig]

Mark that damned bondo isn't worth the effort unless the top finish is "PERFECT". I wouldn't use that again on a bet! Epoxy with 401 or the purple stuff is the only way to insure lasting repairs. I would recomend always using a good seal of epoxy in the cockpits and anywhere else that will routinely get wet. Cabin areas do not need this level of protection but the exterior areas do. Good luck with the repairs.

[hborger]

well, here's my official first post on this site.

I also leave my recently launched (march05) weekender out in the weather and in the lake. I expect to keep it in the water until october or november. I cut a blue tarp to wrap around the mast and extend over the boom and cover the cockpit and part of the cabin roof. It keeps all the rain out because it forms a tent over the boom while protecting my mainsail. I attached the sides of the tarp with good ole spring clamps to the upper rub rail. works like a charm. additionally, i have an automatic bilge pump that picks up water from the cockpit floor and throws it overboard. runs off a battery topped off by solar panel on front hatch. the bilge pump will still leave 2 inches of water in the cockpit, but it's useful to me when i don't put on the tarp. I'll post a pic in couple of weeks when i'm back in town.

sounds like your getting primo advise on wood repair, I too am not impressed with bondo, but will have to live with what's on my boat until repairs needed. You may look into a product called gluvit which is a flexible epoxy sealant to apply after wood repairs. I haven't tried it but it looks like a good product for cockpit and interior sealing.

[Stump]

Hi hborger,

Welcome, do you happen to know who makes gluvit? Sounds interesting.

[hborger]

gluvit seen in boaters world catalog (boatersworld.com)

39 dollas for 2 lb kit

89 dollars for 8 lb kit

[Konrad in Lincoln]

If it makes you feel any better Mike, I've got a 30 foot finish on my Vaca also.

But I've had my boat for 6 years now, and one thing's for sure: The builder's eye amplifies the imperfections far more than the bystander's eye does.

[Mike Pennington]

Amen, Konrad.

I still get oohs and ahhhs, enough to inflate my ego. And at least she doesn't leak. And if I'm not lazy and rig the boom tent the cockpit doesn't get too wet.

Also when the Wolf goes for those mid night jaunts on her own in the storms for a little dock bashing I don't worry about her too much.

Although the new anchor Mark's son sold me is a nice fail safe, for extra precaution.

Mark, it is not all my fault :roll: Joan turned an application into the mental health unit at Providence Medical Center and the manager dang near hired her on the phone. She kept fretting that Joan might apply at Regional. I didn't want to give her a stroke and tell her she all ready had.

I did mention that bribary does work :wink:

I may drive out to the lake this weekend, no promises, I'm not sure about the condition I'll be in after surgery this Wen. But I could use a good sail.

I will also probaly give my 2 week notice at FMH, while I'm on medical leave I might add

I agree we need some more recruits, maybe a tall tale in the Alaska Magazine will draw some Pogey Bate. :roll:

Joan and I want to sail Tustamina Lake next, we be thinking big. Now that will be some great pictures and make a good artical.

I'll give you a shout Mark when I get back in town.

Mike

[tdrown]

i have an automatic bilge pump that picks up water from the cockpit floor and throws it overboard. runs off a battery topped off by solar panel on front hatch.

hborger:

I am about half way through setting up an automatic bilge system. I've got the tubing, the electricity, the pump, and the float switch hooked up.

What did you choose for the solar panels? Where did you get them and where in your electrical system do they attach? I am considering doing the same.

Thanks

-T.S. Drown

[Konrad in Lincoln]

Anyway, back to Mark's original question: I personally would reccommend glassing it when you have the inclination to do it.

Since we've moved to this new house, I've been caught with the boat uncovered several times and have had 4 inches of water standing in the bottom to bail out.

Sure glad I slathered it on in the bottom of the cockpit.

[hborger]

tdrown:

I purchased a 12 x 12 solar panel from my local boater's world store $89.00) Not sure of the brand, but when i get back in town i'll check. It has a built in diode to prevent battery discharging when the sun is sleeping. it connects directly to my battery terminal with alligator clips. I did install a small fuse panel(29.00) that i use to connect my bilge and interior light (l.e.d. for low draw $14.00) and an auto over ride switch when i want to run the bilge. it works fine. Remember,when you put the thru hull hose in, you want it high enough to be over the water line,even when you are healing, but low enough for your pump to handle. I guess mine is about a foot higher than the waterline. I have an electric trolling motor directly attached to the battery via a quick connect on the transom. Seriously considering adding a second battery to hook up in parallel. i've got a long ride out of the marina to open lake and wind.