Dale Niemann Posted February 25, 2005 Report Share Posted February 25, 2005 Does anybody have any ideas or photos of the placement of oars on the CS 17 when they are not in use? In other words, how to store them so they are completely out of the way until needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Williams Posted February 25, 2005 Report Share Posted February 25, 2005 Great question Dale. I'm approaching that point as well. I addition, what's the recommended oar length? I think I remember 7' as a recommendation for a CS17. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Designer Posted February 25, 2005 Report Share Posted February 25, 2005 I have just made and set up oars on my CS17. As soon as I test them and can take the pictures and post them I will, along with dimensions. I have made 8' 11" oars as that was as long as I could stow out of the way along side of the CB trunk with their shafts poking into 2" PVC pipes let into the forward compartment. I have put in two sets of oarlock sockets. The aft ones are in the position shown on the plans and the second set are positioned so that I can row forward of the mizzen mast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Niemann Posted February 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2005 Thanks Graham for this information. I look forward to your photos. Sounds like a great solution. I will plan to incorporate the 2" PVC into my compartment. I will be there before long. I am working on the seats now. Did you mean the PVC goes all the way into the forward compartment or just under the forward seat? When you show photos would you please provide the measurements for the second set of oar positions. Thanks to you Tom, also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Neuman Posted March 30, 2005 Report Share Posted March 30, 2005 I like that idea. How do you attach the PVC pipes to the forward bulkhead? I wouldn't think epoxy would stick to PVC very well. Charles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Designer Posted March 30, 2005 Report Share Posted March 30, 2005 I used 28" lengths of 2" PVC. The forward end had 3/8" ply discs to plug the ends and keep the forward compartment water proof and they were glassed over. The aft ends came through the bulkhead by 3/8" so that I could fillet them on both sides of the bulkhead. The forward ends were glassed to the main mast step. To enhance the poor bond, I ground where the epoxy would contact the PVC with 36 grit. They held up in my BRS15 for many years without any trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Niemann Posted March 31, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2005 Thanks Graham for this information. I will be doing it shortly. I don't see any leathers or oarlocks on the oars. What kind of oarlocks are you using? Sorry, I didn't notice when I saw your boat. Did the 8' 11" oar length work out ok during your Watertribe race? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Designer Posted March 31, 2005 Report Share Posted March 31, 2005 Yes the oar length felt about right. I don't think that it would make much difference if they were a couple of inches shorter. At 8' 11" they just cleared the aft bulkhead when stowing them and they just fit flush with the aft end of the trunk when stowed. Given the building variables from boat to boat 8' 9" might be a better length. I haven't used leathers for many years. I have had a pair of 6' oars since 1969 and they first used rubber instead of leather. Well the rubber perished and I had worn the shafts down before I fixed them. I wrapped fiberglass tape and epoxy around them to build them back up and I have rowed thousands of miles with them since and they are still fine. That is not an exaggeration, I rowed my Catspaw 2 miles yesterday with those oars. If you look closely at those oars you will see that they are glassed where the leather would be. If anyone would like a copy of my 9' oar drawings I will email them to you but I don't have any instructions yet. The two shafts were cut out of a fir 2X4. I cut some 1/4" strips and glued them to the inboard ends of the shafts to bring the diameter to about 2". The ID of 2" PVC is about 2 1/8" The blades were laminated out of 2 layers of 3/16" ply which were a bit too flimsy. I glassed them and added some unidirectional glass till they are just right. In the future I will use 2 layers of 1/4". You could also use straight blades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Niemann Posted March 31, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2005 Graham, I would appreciate an email copy of your oar plans. Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_Potts Posted March 31, 2005 Report Share Posted March 31, 2005 Do you have a photo of the oars stowed in the boat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Designer Posted March 31, 2005 Report Share Posted March 31, 2005 Ken, I don't have a stowed oar picture yet. I left my oars for finishing at the boatbuilding class in the community college and they are on spring break so it will be a few weeks before I can take a picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Posted April 1, 2005 Report Share Posted April 1, 2005 After considerable debate I laminated fir into a Culler type oar of 11 ft. Built port in fwd bulk head at seat level with gasket that would keep out most water even submersed (I think). Second year I moved the oars to side deck with chocks/bungi loop for blades fwd an bungi loop at lock. This I'm happy with and fairly confident it will remain in place if roll yet can be pulling in just a few seconds. As it seems even the best leather will last me only a year or so and the lanolin gathers grime I tried a stiff dacron cord embedded ,slathered in epoxy-cabosil mix. Trouble is I must keep up varnish to prevent UV degration so I don't see as panacea. I'd guess the cord alone no more durable then leather. Would seem a FBG wrap at least faster and easier. As I'm now in the north and only row seasonaly can't yet judge durability. My desire was a craft that would do 2.5kt and after 2 years find I do 2.75(GPS average) with no sweat and 3.0kt for a few hours of light workout which I've come to prefer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffM Posted April 4, 2005 Report Share Posted April 4, 2005 Don, What are you rowing with 11' oars? I'm building a cs20 and haven't gotten around to figuring out oars yet. I've seen sturdy-looking adjustable painting extension poles that I wondered about turning into collapsible oar shafts, but I've no idea if it would work in practice. But if you can stow 11' oars, then maybe length is not the issue I expected it would be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Neuman Posted April 10, 2005 Report Share Posted April 10, 2005 I had an idea: If I am concerned about the PVC epoxy joint, I suppose I could make a plywood tube that has a square cross-section. I could also attach it on its forward end so it is really sturdy. My concern is that I might lift up on the oar before taking it out of the tube, and that would yank the PVC tube right out of the bulkhead. Charles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kidd Posted April 10, 2005 Report Share Posted April 10, 2005 A little more expensive, but you could use aluminum tubes also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Designer Posted April 10, 2005 Report Share Posted April 10, 2005 I don't think that it is a problem. The aft end is supported by the bulkhead and the forward end which is your concern, can be well bonded to the wooden plug. If you are concerned about the plug coming out you could make it thicker and and screw through the PVC into the plug before glassing around the plug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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