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Rust-oleum?


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It is a good hard waterproof paint. On a boat that doesn't live in the water but on a trailer most of the time it will work out just fine. I would apply a couple coats of a good primer and sand them out well first before applying it however. It tends to be self leveling so it can be rolled/brush tipped and you will still end up with a nice finish.

The disadvantage: Defects show up extremely well with a high gloss finish. And dark colors tend to amplify them even more. Touchups are usually fairly obvious when needed as they aren't the same even surface as the rest of the area around it.

By the quart it isn't too expensive. Color selection is a little limited and color matching is not available. But it is good stuff.

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I just throw in a quick 2 cents worth here...

I used the spray gloss on some table legs and base, of an old Round Oak Table I have. (It's about 30 years old and so far gone that I didn't want to refinish it. for all you purists.. :-) Anyway, It sat outside, in the open, through a full year of Maine weather. Right now, those legs and base show absolutely no sign of wear. The top, remade/homemade with light wood and 5 coats of varnish and a cheaper paint on the sides is shot. The base sat in the snow for about 4-5 months and went through all the weather extremes available locally. Rustoleum has my vote. I can't guarantee what it would be like in salt water over an extended period of time but for a weekend boat in salt or fresh, I'd give it a go without hesitation...

As always, surface prep will be a key ingrediant here...

b.

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I mentioned on the other board using latex topsides with poor results. It covers well and touches up with no trace but is a bit soft for the hard wear a boat gets, plus, it wicks up suntan oil like a sponge! I am going to try Rustoleum this time around. That is unless there is enough Awlgrip left over from the top job. The spar tips will get the Rustoleum regardless so ask me how it looks at the end of next season.

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Paul I have been spraying a satin white rustoleum on the interior of my belhaven. I am using a cheap gun and thinning the paint with 15% acidtone.

I had found some oil base marine primer at a local hardware store and put that down first.

I plan on doing the same thing with the hull with exception of the areas that will get walked on.

I contacted rust oleum and a rep told me that it would hold up very well above the water line. Below the waterline was not discussed.

It is very glossy so I will primer and sand the hull before shooting it.

The satin white is not real flat it has a very low gloss.

Also I read somewhere a magazine was comparing marine topside paints and rustoleum was rated as high as a few of the major brands. For the life of me I can't come up where I read that.

Scott

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Scott, I remember reading the same thing, and I think it was in Practical Sailor. But if I remember correctly, the Rustoleum hadn't been through the full weathering test yet, and since it was the first year they were testing it, they couldn't give an unqualified recommendation.

Rustoleum is thick paint, and I have found it a challenge to brush on without leaving brush marks. I had not thought of thinning with acetone ... I did try thinning with paint thinner, and had less than excellent results brushing it out.

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Frank. Sara has an old wrought iron patio set that, a few years ago, was looking quite faded and rusty. I rolled out a two coat layer of black Rustoleum that held up for 5 or 6 years( using our favorite little foam rollers). Actually it was still in good shape when she nagged me into recoating it. Since the first coat I have acquired a small compressor and set of guns. I repainted the patio set and two porch swings with Rustoleum by spraying them. I thinned to about 40% before the mixture would spray right using a touch-up gun using mineral spirits as the tinner. I have a couple of concrete yard art pieces to paint as well, so, this time I will try the acetone and let you know how that works. I used satin finish on the topsides of the boat as down here white white will knock your eyes out in the summer. It is lke looking into a mirror some days.

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Craig, what type of spray gun are you using? I'd like to get a touch-up gun that my small pancake compressor would be able to power. I saw that Charlie uses a touch-up gun that only holds about a half-pint, which would be perfect for me IF the compressor would power it.

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Paul I have been spraying a satin white rustoleum on the interior of my belhaven. I am using a cheap gun and thinning the paint with 15% acidtone.

Sorry, but did you mistype this? You are thinning it with Acetone? Thats actually a first for me. I use turpentine or mineral spirits for this. Also, some may try the Ace Hardware Brand of Rustoleum called XO Rust. I pay 8 buck a quart. Mix a little M=! mildew inhibitor in it, which is avaliable at most good paint stores, one once to a quart and this keeps any mildew down in warm climates and high humidity areas.

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Paul the can of rustoleum said to thin up to 15% with acetone. I mixed to that ratio and poured the paint through a paint strainer. It sprayed very nice. Like I said my gun is a cheap one, buffalo I think.

Yes I misspelled acetone.

Frank you are right about the brush marks I tried that first and it was not pretty.

Scott

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:shock: :?: Actually one can I have said thin up to 10% with mineral spirts or acetone and the can of satin said up to 15% of the same.

Oyster Thanks for the advice on the mildew. I'll pick some of that inhibitor up at my local Ace hardware.

On the subject of engineering I never read the directions or the plans until I run into problems :? Just ask Graham.

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In my opinion, the acetone will not do the same job, as it has a tendancy to evaporate quicker than the spririts or turpentine. Its hard for me to still fathom that it actually blends with the paint. I would think the acetone just "floats" with the mix. I will try it the next chance I get on a test strip.

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Thanks for all the replies!

Just bought a quart of Rust0Oleum Marine Coatings Primer and 1 Quart of Navy Blue From their website: "High performance modified alkyd for use above the waterline provides excellent: Gloss retention, UV resistance, Flexibility,Durability in extreme weather conditions"

It was about $17/quart for the primer and $9 quart for the top coat at Lowe's.

I am still sanding the hull but plan to apply primer this weekend sometime so if any one has a reason I shouldn't use this product, speak now or....

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Frank-- you really should have no problems with a small gun like that. The one in the pic was a Binks, but we also have another "off Brand" which works ok too. I just tend to use the better gun for nice stuff :) The Binks is the gun Laura uses to seal coat her paintings and she REALLY doesn't want something going awry then.

We usually spray at around 40 psi and I can use the gun for quite some time without the compressor kicking on. They really aren't that heavy on air use.

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