keel box

[Jan Williamson]

Well I got the boat on the trailer, and would like to evaluate making a keel box. I can see the boat moving from side to side What are the advantages. Does anyone pictures they would like to share? I am trying to post some pics but having trouble getting them to post

[Jan Williamson]

Here is another try at picture posting. Anyone have any input as to whether I need a keel box? Are there advantages in the weight distribution on the trailer, as far as long term sitting?

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[Florin {VACATIONER}]

Jan,

As far as I understand there is no weight bearing on the keelbox from the boat at all. It is only there to guide the boat straight onto the trailer mainly when loading and to keep it centered on the bunks/rollers while in transit with it bouncing up and down on crappier roads. We opted for bunks because aparently they distribute the contact weight better 'cause they have more surface as compared to the rollers, and I'm not sure with the ply boats, but on heavy plastic boats may warp the bottom due to the wight applied on such small surface such the top part of the rollers, although I haven't seen one damaged yet. We built our trailer from scratch so the bunks option was way less work and way cheaper as well. By looking at the pics I would reccomend using a keelbox to keep things aligned and ease of loading, but that's just my opinion. They're not a lot of work to do either.

Good luck, and BTW your rig looks great!!!

Cheers

Florin

[capt jake]

Just a thought ( as I have been there ); extend the fore portion of the keel box. When the trailer is in water, the aft end is not even close to touching the aft end of the boat (as it is down in the water). Thus, is you have any side wind or wave action, the aft of the boat will drift off center prior to getting it out of the water. Extending the forward end of the box will help 'capture' the keel and help center it as it is pulled out.

I have bunks, and built a channel on the extreme aft end to 'center' the boat. My above explantion should point out why this won't work. I am going to have to build a box that extends forward to help center it while pulling it out of the water.

I hope this makes sense. ??

BTW, with the exeption of the rollers, your set-up looks very simular to mine.

[Jan Williamson]

So how far forward are you talking about? Like... in relationship to the boat.

[capt jake]

Picture it pivoting at teh thickest section of the keel; I would extend it to that point and sightly beyond.

I know it is hard to envision; I have been there, made everyting so nice and neat. then on the water; of wow, it was not what I had pictured when setting it on the trailer. :)

Try to imigine how the tralier will set on the lauch, and the boat it floating (level) from the trailer. Depending upon hte launch, there can be a great descrepency between the two.

Hard to visualize, as I have been there. I plan on sailing on Tuesday, let me know if you need launch pics, and I will take some.

[Jan Williamson]

I can visualize how the keel box could be used all the way up to where the keel starts going up. You've explained it well Now I have to look at adding a support for the forward part of the box. There are the two 2" bars across that are part of the bunker frame, but they are directly under the cabin/cockpit. So I think I will have to have another cross member up forward.

I have some fairleads and a couple more pulleys to install and attaching the trolling motor, and it is down to making some sails. I think I will work on the cabin cushion, a new steering wheel, and some dacron sails this winter. But I really want to get this baby on the water this month

I would really enjoy some launch pics. Thanks

[capt jake]

Jan, I don't have any cross bars on my trailer, this is the reason I never installed teh box. I am still scratching my head on an easy way to help guide the boat onto the trailer.

Some of those 'guide bars' that stand up on the side of the trailer might be the best way to go.

[Florin {VACATIONER}]

Yep, we have our keelbox extended all the way to the stem and all the way to the rear of the trailer. Loading and unloading is a breeze. I remember when I owned a stinkpot on roller trailer... this is waaaaay easier to do. It always ends up centered... first time too, regardless if I backed the trailer in a bit at an angle. First we back the trailer in so that we have the bunks about 1/2 submerged. We have a painter tied on the chain and another rope tied to the scuppers at the rear, this way we can control the boat on both axis. I sit on one of the bunks and center and pull the boat into the keelbox... attach the winch-line and winch her up as far as possible without tugging too hard. Then I get Barb to take over the winch and slowly winch her up on the bunks while I gently back the trailer into the water some more til we have her all the way. We got it to the point where we can do this in 2-3 minutes and we're out of the water in record time. I didn't think it would be so easy. If you have rollers you should be able to do this in one shot.

Cheers

[Craig]

I have driven my boat right up the keel box on occasion. This takes a helper with a good eye though. I cut off the extra 4" of un used bunk when I replaced the boards a couple weeks ago so I doubt I will be able to align good enough to do that anymore. I split the weight of the boat between the bunks and the keel box. Keeps her from tipping or suffering point loads under the hull.

[Mike Pennington]

That would be so nice to sail right up on the traler, or at least row on. When I sailed Skilak lake this summer, the wind was sideways to the ramp, hard to load against that kind of wind. The river boats use side bunks.

I got BIT by a microscopic shark at Big Lake, they call it swimmers itch, I forget the genis name. Itch my aching shin, that hurt for several days to the bone, you would have thought I was on Coumadin, black and blue from one bite.

I'm not sure what I'll come up with, but I'm going to put that welder to use yet.

[Jan Williamson]

So..... Florin, How do you have your keel box attached, especially in the front area? What is the box made from 2x6? ( I am hoping to recycle the dolly's wood)

I have a couple of 2" bars spaced 4 ft apart that are part of the roller bunk frame that I can attach the back part box with U bolts. But forward of that the trailer doesn't have any cross members and finally goes to the v connection.

[Florin {VACATIONER}]

Jan,

You'll probably have to weld in a crossmember somewhere at the front. It doesn't have to be too bulky and strong 'cause it really doesn't have any load bearing on it... at least on mine it doesn't, all the weight is supported by the bunks. I'll try to scrounge up some pics and post them in a couple of minutes.

The bunks and keelbox were made out of cheap construction grade spruce 2X8, but i'm sure 2x6 will work too. I made up some brackets out of 1x angle iron and welded them to the crossmembers. Drilled them thru and bolted the keelbox to them. They were painted with tremclad first and then covered with marine grade carpet. They look pretty spiffy I think.

[Florin {VACATIONER}]

OK, here's the trailer just after the boat was put on. Hope you can see all the detail you need. Yes, the bunks are sitting about 6" too high and about 8" too far out. I'll have to get the boat unloaded at the lake and get the trailer home for the mods. Shouldn't take more that a couple of hours to do. That will bring the C of G lower and the bunks further in to fully support the weight of the boat.

If you have anymore queestions shoot!

Cheers

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[Guest]

Try this configuation for cross runs with supports. You could adjust to any height you wish to carry your boat, either sunken or atop your wheel wells, depending on how you connect the cross beams. Just notch the beam accordingly. If you have solid beams, you can just cut an rabbit in the ends to allow for carrying the load by using say 4x6 pressure treated lumber. I take it that the rollers are carrying most of the weight?

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[Florin {VACATIONER}]

Here's a side shot. You can tell how long the keelbox is here. You can also tell that the bunks needed to be adjusted for the boat was sitting too high, and also she needed to be balanced on the trailer, but you get the idea...

At the aft end, the trailer is about 4ft shorter then the boat, so there is an overhang. The keelbox stops at the end of the trailer. My trailer is overbuilt... So next time I would build a much lighter one.

Cheers

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[Jan Williamson]

Nice trailer Florin. I wish I could weld (if I even had a welder.

Good idea Oyster, Thanks

Here is what I have to work with... I need some taller roller brackets in the back. Might have to have them made?

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[Guest]

Between you and me, I would do away with all of those rollers and go with two sections of bunks. You will be happier with it. You boat is not that heavy, and you do not power load your boat. There is no other reason for the rollers except to drag, rust and will hang up and mark your boat in the future. That is my opinion. If you would like for me to find a set up online to copy, I will. But I think in the original thread, while back, we discussed different ones with another person loading theirs on a tralier designed for a power boat.

[Craig]

Jan you may be able to mod those roller supports with the bunk boards. The keel box is easy to do. I will send a couple of photos of my trailer tonight to show you how mine works. For the keel box you only need to support the keel over the forward 2/3s of its length and it will really only contact a small area of the keel once loaded. The rollers will be nothing but trouble at the least and have a potential for damage to you boat.

[Jan Williamson]

Bunk boards sounds like the way to go. So would they be fixed with new brackets welded on ? Or would they attach to the pivoting roller arm brackets (minus the rollers) :roll: that are already on there? I have already marred the keel side with a failed attempt at getting the boat on the trailer. (Might wash off. Paint seems to be pretty tough).