Joe Nelson CS#35 Posted September 5, 2004 Report Share Posted September 5, 2004 I am using white pigment from S3 on all epoxy coating of my compartments. The pigment does not offer UV protection...but you dont need it in the compartments. My thoughts were to brighten up the typically dark areas without the need for painting. The first coat goes on looking a bit like "white wash". But after 3 coats it looks great. It is still not finish quality but will make locating items in the compartments easier. The final analysis is; Adding pigment takes a little trial and error to get the proper coverage...a 4 ounce jar colors a gallon. Who and the heck mixes a gallon at at time? So I use a stir stick and the about "that much" approach. For no added painting to get a reasonable finish...I think it is well worth trying. I am glad I did it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Dunsworth Posted September 5, 2004 Report Share Posted September 5, 2004 I have some yellow and white pigment. I tried the yellow on the outside of the hull. Thinking that if the hull color was similar to the paint color that it would not show scratchs as easily. But I only got two coats on and decided it was going to take more coats than I wanted to put on. Perhaps if I had started with the fill coat it would have worked better. BUUUT I am building in a locker for the fuel tank inside one of the cockpit lockers. It will be vented and have a drain port in it. And this sounds like its worth trying. If I like it a may consider doing the rest of the lockers the same. After all the fuel tank moving around in its locker while trailering would scratch the heck out of any paint I would use in there. Got any pictures? Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Nelson CS#35 Posted September 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2004 I am probably using the pigment at a higher rate than specified. You might try that for your lockers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warthog5 Posted September 5, 2004 Report Share Posted September 5, 2004 Been there Done that with West System pigment. It was a waste of time and never did cover well after 5 coats. A much better solition in lockers, bildges and interior of cabin is to use Shurwin Williams Tile Clad HS [High Solids] It is a TRUE epoxy paint. 2 coats with brush or roller and your done. With a cheap brush it still lays out very slick. This stuff is designed to paint the inside of water tanks. So direct contact with water in bildges and such will not get pock marks in paint like other paints will in an enclosed compartment with water in it. This paint is available at your local Shurwin Williams paint dealer. the don't sell in in smaller quanities than gal. A gal of part A is $36.80 a gal of part B is $36.80. It will go a Looooog way. On a side note this is a fantactic paint to paint your shop floor with. the only way it will come up is if you chip the concrete. We used it at work in a mechanic's shop. It was washed once a week with costic steam cleaning soap and then steam cleaned down. After 1 1/2yrs it would start to loose it's gloss. The color gray that they used at work had a 55% light reflective value. My shop has a light gray that has a 72% light reflective value. I like it much better. It brightens the shop more. Here's a pix of the bildge that I just painted in White. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P Doug (WA) Posted September 5, 2004 Report Share Posted September 5, 2004 warthog5, How would it work on the outside of a boat and does it come in colors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warthog5 Posted September 6, 2004 Report Share Posted September 6, 2004 True Epoxy Paint will "chalk" from the sun. Yes you can get it in diffrent colors. I don't know how many diffrent colors there are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Nelson CS#35 Posted September 6, 2004 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2004 Are you suggesting that the bilges be painted with epoxy paint in addition to the 3 coats of epoxy encapsulation or is the paint substituting the epoxy coating? My objective was to brighten up the compartments without adding additional processes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Lathrop Posted September 6, 2004 Report Share Posted September 6, 2004 I've been using this industrial epoxy paint on boats for 10 years and think it's great stuff. I use the Devoe brand but it is probably about the same as SH. They have one version for use in potable situations like inside water tanks and the chemical resistant type used on bridges, towers, water tanks and the like. Really durable and tough. I roll it on decks, soles and interiors with a short nap roller to get a fine pebbly finish that I like for these situations. I just sprayed the interior of my latest boat with it and got a satin finish. It's not high gloss no matter how you apply it. It does chalk but I am not bothered by that since I don't want glare on decks and soles anyway. I bought a quart of lampblack tint from Lowes for about $8 and tint the standard white to shades of grey. It will only get to dark grey starting with the highly pigmented white. Buying tints in small quantities is expensive. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warthog5 Posted September 6, 2004 Report Share Posted September 6, 2004 Joe Do your incapulation as normal sand it, then paint with the SW Tile Clad HS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Nelson CS#35 Posted September 7, 2004 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2004 Yeah, thats what I thought...I am trying to avoid any extra steps. 2 coats looks OK, with the three coats of encapsulation with pigment I will be satisfied. Not quite the finish of your locker...but they are ok for flotaion tanks and fore/aft compartments. I used about twice the recommended amount of pigment. I am going to build a Princess 26 later and there are a lot of hidden spaces that I will probably pigment. Wanted to see how it worked on a smaller project. Your boat pictured is beautiful! Nice job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Lathrop Posted September 7, 2004 Report Share Posted September 7, 2004 Here is a hint for saving labor, epoxy and getting a smoother job on surfaces. Sand the bare wood with about 220 grit. Vacuum. Spread on a THIN coat of epoxy with a spreader and force the epoxy into the wood as much as possible. The idea is to get the minimum amount of epoxy on and still fill the pores. I like a stiff rubber spreader for this job. After it sets up, sand with 220 grit. This will be a quick and easy job and should leave the surface very smooth. The idea is to get rid of surface fibers that always stick up through the epoxy and make sanding more work and wastes epoxy. :idea: This is a great time and labor saver. Give it a try. :idea: After this, you can put on more epoxy coats or epoxy paint. I don't know how the water resistance of the paint compares with epoxy resin, so I use epoxy base coats under the paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Nelson CS#35 Posted September 8, 2004 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2004 Tom, Sounds like a great idea...thanks. I will try it later, but I am committed to the process I currently have started. I will file it, "in my bag of tricks". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edt Posted September 9, 2004 Report Share Posted September 9, 2004 How long does it take the SH to chalk badly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warthog5 Posted September 9, 2004 Report Share Posted September 9, 2004 I have no idea, as I've never put it in the sun. This product is also talked about in Reuel B. Parker's book " The New Cold-Molded Boatbuilding". He talks about using Thile Clad II. That is not made any more and the replacement is The Tile Clad HS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Lathrop Posted September 10, 2004 Report Share Posted September 10, 2004 It's been on the decks and cockpit sole of this Bluejacket 24 for five summers in the south. Protected most of the time but still exposed a considerable amount of time. It's fairly dull, which I like, and some will come off with rubbing. Looks like it will still be several years before it needs recoating. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capt jake Posted September 10, 2004 Report Share Posted September 10, 2004 Tom, that isn't fair! Posting my dream boat! :) I probably missed it, you are talking Shrwin Williams paint?? Dang, I have to get this shop done! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bwb Posted October 5, 2004 Report Share Posted October 5, 2004 Hi Guys, Just chipping in with a comment about something I once saw on another US boat builder's site. The builder had finished his interior surfaces with a product called Flow Coat (flo coat?). It was an epoxy type paint that went straight over you 1st or 2nd coat of encapsulation epoxy. The finish was stunning - very smooth and glossy - just what you want inside lockers, heads etc. It brightened up those dark areas, and with such a smooth finish was an easy 'wipe to clean' surface. On another tack, our local epoxy manufacturer has a couple of pre-coat ply treatments. One is a type of thinners called TPRDA which stands for Timber Preservative Reactant Diluent Additive. This is mixed into the epoxy and used as a first coating on the ply. Helps the epoxy soak into and seal the wood fibres. The other product, Timberdure, is a 2 pack very thin epoxy which soaks into the ply more than just plain epoxy. Epoxy then just goes on straight over the top. I've used the Timberdure, and it doesn't stiffen the sheets as much as plain epoxy. I Timberdure coated the whole sheets, then cut them out, joined etc. to make the boat, and then epoxied them once they were complete. I used that method to build a couple of small sailboats and they turned out fine. You should have similar products available in the US. Regards, Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.