How much trouble am I in???

[JeffM]

As I complete the wiring of my CS20, I am getting uneasy and more than a little embarrassed. For the most part, the curves look good and the overall shape as well, but there are large gaps between all of my bulkheads (incl. center frame) and the sides. The gaps range from 3/8" to about 1/4". (Did I mention I'm not a woodworker?) I can only see the effect where the smooth convex curve of the sheer is interrupted by a "pinched" section at the forward bulkhead. Even shims of 3/8" ply don't entirely eliminate the unfairness. Evidently, I cut the bottom panels consistently too generously. (Though how I did so so thoroughly is a mystery to me.)

I'm hoping I can get away with epoxying in shims to make up the difference. I couldn't bear to take the whole thing apart to try to measure and cut again! (Did I mention I'm not a woodworker?)

Any advice? Anybody out there make such a mess of things and still have a boat come out of it??

Jeff

[Scott Dunsworth]

Don't worry to much. I had all of those troubles and when I installed the inwale sheer batten everything looked pretty fair. The ply may not match up to the bulkheads perfect and its probably not a reflection on your wood working skills but just how your ply is wanting to react to the stresses. Graham told me not to force the panels to the bulkheads or you will get a unfair hull. Just pull it in at the sheer to match the bulkhead measurement and let the rest lie where it will. Within reason I wouldn't worry about a 1/4 inch gap.

I have a feeling you'll be happier once the inwale sheer is in.

Scott

[Ken_Potts]

I had some of the gaps you describe. They didn't worry me too much because they were symmetrical and every boat is going to be a little bit different.

I also had the pinched bow you mentioned. That terrified me. I kept looking at it while I was filleting the seams, telling myself "It'll get a little better when I install the inwhales" but I didn't really believe it. I decided if the inwhales didn't help I would eventually modify the sheer a little bit to reduce the visual effect. I sweated and worried and when I installed the inwhales the boat became BEAUTIFUL:).

Keep on building.

[JeffM]

Thanks, Ken, Ray & Scott. I can believe that the stiffness of the inwhales will help keep the curve of the sheer smooth -- but not if I fillet the sides to the bulkhead first. What do I do with the bulkhead gaps? I expect I need to fill them out, rather than pinch them in. Or do I simply avoid filleting the bulkheads at all until the inwhales are in?

[Ken_Potts]

Ditto to what Ray said.

I did all the fillets before adding the inwhales and things still worked out for me but that's not the only way to go.

[Scott Dufour]

Jeff, I put in the inwales before touching it with any epoxy: I liked what it did to the shape and I wanted the hull to be able to flex without fillets. As far as the quarter inch gaps: a little wider epoxy fillet will make 'em all go away.

[mustangermatt]

Not only do the inwales define the hull shape, but I found when I put the stiffeners in the bottom forward the shape faired out quite a bit.

[JeffM]

Thanks again! I'm going to clamp in the inwhales and have a look. There's no mention of them in the plan, except for one or two labels in the profile hull plan. Do I simply notch the bulkheads and center frame and lay them on? There supposed to be 22' long (12'+10') -- does it matter which length is first? Do they need to be glued end to end first?

Jeff

[Aaron_G]

I had a similar question about making 17' inwales from shorter pieces of wood. After consulting the forum, I wound up scarfing them together.

Below is the link to the topic where I first asked about this. People posted some links to good articles about scarfing.

http://www.messing-about.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2607

[edt]

I would make the joint at the same place on both sides. I did not with by birder 2... Would have been better if I had - the shape would have been fairer as they would bend the same way on each side.

Ed