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A Simple 3-Board Door


BobSmalser

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Guitars, etc consume very expensive "music wood" of which we mill a lot of figured maple for here.

Such stock doesn't plane well and is best done with sanders and scrapers....scrapers giving a crisper finish.

All woodworkers should learn to use card scrapers...they'll save you dough on sandpaper, are much faster and more pleasant to use, and can be used to precisely take the eggshell off fo a layer of varnish, let alone remove sanding scratches and planer marks in cedar and redwood.

http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Wood_How_To/INDEX_How_To.htm

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Bob,

Thanks for that link. I have now joined WoodNet forums. Lots of stuff to look at there.

The hatch you made looks great. For some reason, I cannot print any of it either directly from this forum, or via Word. Stuff just hangs up with the hour glass mouse pointer. The one on the oar building was the other one I tried to print.

I just tried something new. I made a Word doc. with wider margins, then copied from here and pasted. It worked but there is a box around each text line. LOL. At least I can print it now and read later when away from the office. I enjoy this stuff while eating lunch, etc.

Thanks again for all your help and teaching.

Greg.

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Very nicely executed! Nice attention to the details which will seperate it from the rest and be a source of pride and enjoyment for many years to come.

I too love working with good red cedar. Nice stable wood and when encapsulated in epoxy will hold up quite well when compared to other soft woods. And it finishes out beautifully.

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BINGO' date=' figured out how to remove the borders. Raining here today, so not much can be done on the boats, so it is a good time to solve software issues.[/quote']

To avoid pasting with borders, try using "Edit*Paste Special" and choose "Unformatted Text" within Word.

If I ever get time (HA!), I'll include an option for a "Print Friendly" version of each of the articles at http://www.messing-about.com/articles/articles.html.

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How did you do those port rings, please?

I have a large Delta woodworker's extended-arm drill press and a flycutter.....but my flycutter alone isn't not large enuf for most port rings.

I clamp a piece of lath with a nail in it to the bandsaw table with the radius I want between nail and blade...make my doorskin circles...laminate the solid stock to them slightly oversize....mount to the vise with screws beneath....and trim them flush with the perfect-circle doorskin with a router flush-cutting bit.

Then I remove the screws... use the flycutter to cut the inner circle...remount the screws...and round over the edges again with the router.

Then I finish the port rings seperately...both front and back...cut and finish the hole in the finished piece...and mount with screws and sealant to the finished piece...trimming the bungs with a chisel.

On these, I did the port light and compass trim from scraps of the same 8/4 stock I made the oars with earlier ...and resawed it in half.

58904177.jpg

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I clamp a piece of lath with a nail in it to the bandsaw table with the radius I want between nail and blade...make my doorskin circles...laminate the solid stock to them slightly oversize....mount to the vise with screws beneath....and trim them flush with the perfect-circle doorskin with a router flush-cutting bit.

Hmmm ... so maybe I shouldn't buy that $150 Circle Cutting Jig for my bandsaw? :lol:

I've seen all sorts of complicated solutions to making a circle cutting jig, but yours sounds the most straight forward. For as often as I need to cut a disc out of something, I'm thinking the lathe-nail technique is the one for me.

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Sometimes I don't even bother with that, Frank...especially with plywood with consistent grain.

I just draw the circle....cut outside the line with band or saber saw....and trim to the line with router and straight bit.

Use a heavy enuf router like my big old Makita 3612....and if the bit catching the grain isn't an issue, you can keep well under a half a pencil line tolerance.

But turning the router upside down in the Workmate and clamping the nailed lath to the work surface top gets you the same thing with a cleaner cut. Use spacers to bring the workpiece to the same level as the router base plate.

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