Roller furling revistied (Long)

[Barry Pyeatt]

An inexpensive Roller Furling headsail system

for your Pocket Cruiser, Weekender or Vacationer from hardware store parts.

I've had a number of boats with roller furling jibs or Genoas in my sailing experience. Most of them were fairly sophisticated mechanical devices that were designed for larger boats. They all worked just fine for furling the sail, but they were not designed for reefing the headsail. For ease of handling in most any conditions, they are a real blessing on a small boat. If I were single handling the boat they were almost a necessity to work with the jib or Genoa. The one thing that they had in common was that although the concept was fairly simple, but the execution turned out to be extremely expensive.

The forestay has to carry a lot of stress and the loads placed upon it are at times extreme. So the majority of the systems are basically over engineered to prevent claims against failure in use. In its simplest form, the system has a spool to handle the line to roll up (furl) the sail around a replacement for the forestay. The system has a number of swivels (generally ball bearing) in its construction that connects the hub to a channel that replaces the forestay. There is generally a channel to hold the leading edge (luff) of the sail securely and the sail rides internally in the channel in clips or hanks.

Operation is fairly simple; there are two lines (sheets) attached to the clew or the sail, one leads down either side of the boat and back to the cockpit area. A third line runs from the spool back to the cockpit.

When the sail is rolled up the sheets are still attached to the clew and are loosely hanging ready for use. The furling line has been pulled back to the cockpit where it is all coiled and ready to feed back onto the spool. To set the sail, one or the other of the sheets is pulled and the furling line is released. The sail unrolls and the furling line is spooled back onto the hub.

To furl the sail, the furling line is pulled off the drum and the sheets are released allowing the sail to wrap around the forestay.

A very simple concept and one that is a joy to work with under sail and really nice to have when the winds are up and you otherwise would have to leave the cockpit and go forward to bring down the jib or Genoa.

I read an article some time back about building a furling system for the headsail out of PVC plumbing pipe and connectors. It was a little cumbersome and not very attractive, but it seemed to work. I've also seen some variations on that idea with wire spools and PVC pipe that have also worked more or less successfully.

But in talking with a number of experienced "experts". I use that term with a degree of caution, since "experts" in this context simply means people that have had a lot of sailing experience behind them with a variety of conditions and different sized/types of sailing craft. This has brought about a kind of consensus of opinions about what would be desirable, not adversely effect performance and be easy to make and maintain. So I set out on a discovery mission to see what materials could be utilized that were:

1) Inexpensive

2) Readily available

3) Strong enough to handle the loads

4) Easily assembled

5) Reliable

6) Repairable

7) Require minimal maintenance

I visited a number of the "box" stores, such as Lowes, Home Depot and a number of national chain stores.

Primarily ACE and Coast to Coast Hardware Stores. I also visited a number of Plumbing supply stores to get information on less well used parts for plumbing systems that might be utilized in designing the system.

I found a lot of good materials and a whole bunch that I wouldn't even consider although at first glance they might be suitable.

In consideration of the design criteria, I had to think about some demands on this system that were unique to trailerable boats and in particular, the Weekender, Vacationer and Pocket Cruiser. These designs all have tabernacles and a need to be able to stow the headsail one way or another when tailoring.

That took me away from the idea of a PVC pipe for the forestay. Although it will work, there were a couple other considerations that moved me away from the PVC pipe idea as well. The first was the airflow over the forestay and onto the sail. The smaller diameter the forestay, the less turbulence created off the leading edge of the sail. Second was the difficulty in attaching the sail to the PVC. I've seen Duct tape wrapped around the PVC and onto the leading edge of the sail. A number of equally spaced slots cut into the PVC with a wire inside the pipe (the actual forestay) and then the jib hanked onto the forestay. I've also seen a slot cut lengthwise along the PVC pipe and the leading edge of the forestay slipped into the slot. This secured primarily with a rope sewn into the leading edge to jam inside the slot.

The primary disadvantage to the PVC pipe other than the size and fragility of the plastic itself is that once the sail is rolled on the pipe, it is a long piece of hardware to stow for tailoring. It doesn't fold up or coil easily and it is longer than the mast so it is awkward to bundle with the main sail, boom/gaff, etc. The spool and attachments make an awkward extension to deal with and so on. The consideration was to simply have the PVC in two sections so it could be uncoupled, but that is a no go simply because the sail is attached in one manor or another and it doesn't separate at the joint.

The dilemma was solved when I saw a small Lightning type racing boat in Hawaii that had a roller furling system on it. It consisted of a hub with hardware to attach it to the bow and the jib had a wire rope sewn into the leading edge that served as the forestay. When they unstepped the mast for transport, the forestay unclipped and the rolled up sail was coiled and dropped into the cockpit where it was easy to haul and wasn't blown about or knocking about damaging things along the trip.

Next step was to see about how to attach the head of the sail to the mast and the tack to a drum to furl it. I found a lightweight and actually quite strong small wire spool at the various "box" stores that had typically #12 THHN wire on it. It had plastic flanges that were reasonably strong; flexible to some extent and a hub that had a 1/2" ID hole in it for a shaft to hold it on the wire rack. In checking with various types of plastic pipe I found that 1/2" CPVC pipe (the yellowish pipe) was a perfect fit and had a large number of various fittings and adapters to other sizes and types of fittings commonly stocked and available. The spool was relatively small and it doesn't need to be any larger for our use.

I also found that there is quite a variety of strong stainless steel swivels in various configurations available and stocked by some hardware stores. These were a little more difficult to find but not impossible. I also found them on the Internet at various boating supply houses.

What I needed was a way to attach the spool to a hub that could turn and still have the load taken up by the wire forestay sewn into the sail. The solution was to take a short length of CPVC pipe and fit the spool over it. This can be epoxied to the pipe or a few pop rivets will attach it to the pipe. The advantage to CPVC pipe in this instance rather than larger or heavier Schedule 40 PVC pipe is that it is extremely strong and thick walled for its size. I placed one CPVC end cap on the pipe as close to the spool as possible and a CPVC 1/2" to standard faucet thread adapter were epoxied inplace.

This made up the spool itself and a hole would be drilled into the end cap to allow the wire rope to be threaded through the spool and pipe.

I found two similar stainless swivels that had a 350-lb. Load rating on them. One had a closed loop on both end and the other had a loop on one side and a ring with a hole in the end of it on the other for attachment to something else.

The one with the double closed loops would be at the head of the sail the other one at the bottom of the spool. I also found a heavy-duty standard stainless steel outdoor faucet cap that would thread onto the CPVC adapter. I drilled a hole in the faucet cap for the wire rope to pass through and had a friend weld the cap to the base of the swivel. The combination screwed onto the CPVC faucet adapter and that completed the hub assembly.

I now had a furling spool that was inexpensive and heavy duty enough for use on my Weekender. I could have the standard jib, a lapper or Genoa made that had a wire rope sewn into the leading edge to function as the forestay and attach it to the swivel at the top with cable clamps or have it spliced onto the swivel. I could pass it through the hub of the spool and clamp it onto the swivel at the base. This would allow the forestay to turn with the spool and allow the sail to be rolled around the forestay for furling.

The furling line could be attached to the hub by feeding the end through the convenient holes in the flanges of the hub and clamping it to the CPVC Adapter or End cap with a hose clamp. Now I had a means of furling the sail.

In order for the line to wind evenly on the spool and not get all tangled up or bound up on itself the line must exit the spool at a 90-degree angle to the spool and pass through a fairlead eye on the deck or toerail. Then run the line as directly as possible back to the cockpit passing through fairlead eyes to keep it contained. The primary consideration is for the line to run smoothly and not get tangled.

I was on a 31' Friendship with a roller furling headsail. The spool was extremely small but very effective and easy to use. The line feeding back was routed along the inside of the toe rail and was only about 3/16" diameter. A number of the systems I saw used small diameter line and it worked well. Generally the larger the sail, the larger diameter the hub of the spool must be to work well. But with a standard jib or even a lapper this spool should perform well.

The entire assembly is attached at the mast with a quick clip and at the bow eye with a shackle. Tension for the forestay is the same as with the standard forestay, adjustable with the shrouds.

If the boat were moored for extended periods, a protective sail cover would be needed for UV protection, but the strips sewn onto the foot and luff of the sails are heavy compared to the sail material itself. Without the UV protection strips, the sail can take its normal shape.

When tailoring, the entire assembly can be detached at the bow eye and either bound with the boom/mainsail/gaff or dropped into a coil in the cockpit or cabin where it will travel just fine.

What would I need to make this roller furler?

Material list:

Plastic Wire spool with 1/2" ID hub Freebee

About 6-8" of 1/2" CPVC pipe (you can often purchase short lengths)

You may have to purchase a full length. $4.75

1 - 1/2" CPVC End Cap .59

1 - 1/2" CPVC Adapter to standard hose bib .79

1 - Standard Outdoor Faucet cap (May be heavy brass) 1.99

Stainless preferred.

1 - Small diameter stainless hose clamp .79

2 - Wire clamps 2.98

2 - Stainless steel swivels 9.98

1 - Shackle Galvanized 2.49

18' 3/16' line 3.60

Spool hardware total $27.96 plus tax.

You will also need your deck fittings and your sail with a wire rope sewn into the leading edge.

If you are making your own sails, I found that several of the people I talked to had laid a full length strip of double faced tape against the wire rope and then when the sail fabric was folded over the wire rope it held it securely without sewing inplace. The tack and head of the sails should be reinforced just as with a standard sail.

Of course, this is all done at your own risk. Anything done here is not guaranteed to perform in the same way as a professionally designed or mfg. Furling system.

Have fun and good sailing.

I'll post photos of the entire process as I get them developed.

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[Frank Hagan]

Barry, this has got to be the most elegant solution for our small boats that I've seen yet! It solves the problems with the PVC pipe over the forestay, and is inexpensive enough that even if you have two or three different headsails, you could have each of them with the same roller furling set up.

[Craig]

Thanks Berry. I have been thinking about this and you have saved me much research. I will file this for later use.

[John B]

The first commercially available furling system is generally regarded to be the Wykham Martin furler from sometime around the 1920's or so and it works the way you describe. I have a couple myself and they make a neat job of rolling the sail into a flexible sausage the length of the luff. makes it very easy to stow etc. They have some vices and you can read about those at one of the agents sites at

http://www.classicmarine.co.uk/index.htm

They can be quite hard to furl when the sail is full of air. We got into some trouble that way one day , and had to dump the halyard in a big hurry to get the sail down. That's one of the reasons why its considered a better idea to keep a forestay rigged, and run the furler on its own seperate luff wire just inside it( the forestay) although there are advantages to going without it if you dare.

I've found that the most critical factor in using this( general )type of furler is the condition of the top swivel. Any resistance there means the lower part of the sail furls, but the top hangs, gets full of air and gets even harder to make turn. So If I can make any suggestion to you as far as developing your idea is concerned, it would be to concentrate in that area.

Have a read of the site. look for any link to furling and in particular look at the articles that he's written on using the various components he sells. Quite interesting reading.I hope its of interest.

[MikeStevenson]

The only roller-fouling system I've been privy to was the Harken stuff we had on the Valkyrie. They were aluminum extrusions which sleeved over the forestays one the two bows. The jibs slipped up in a track slot on the extrusion, all of which turned with the drum. I don't know much about the drum-only type (which I'm assuming this is, unless I've mis-interpreted--which is certainly possible.) I was told that the foil-type were more trustworthy, but ours are such little boats, comparatively, that I imagine either would be fine. We never had any problems with the Harkens, but we never really pushed them that hard either.

I will say that this was the first and only time we've had roller-furling on a boat and it was sure great. It was smooth and fun, and of course every time we tacked we had to swap sails so we had a fair amount of use with them.

Mike

[Barry Pyeatt]

John B

Thanks for the link. Others considering trying this should read it as well. I'm familiar with their "furling gear" and had the opportunity a few years back to use some of it in on a weeks cruise in the Caribbean. It was on a 45 ft. ketch and had a 150 Genoa on it. I experienced some of the drawbacks that they brought up. The primary one was tangling/fouling of the furling line due to a lack of consistent tension on the line as the sail was set. The secondary drawback is their hoisting it with a halyard to place the gear. The halyard has a tendency to turn and then the entire system goes bonkers. This had a 2:1 purchase on the head as recommended and it still turned.

I agree that a better system would have a fixed forestay forward of the furling gear. On a larger boat than these I would say it would be an absolute necessity.

With the system I'm proposing, it is attached at the head directly to the mast eye and the bowsprit. So there is no halyard to twist and no traveler to cause problems with the drum at the base.

The swivels that I found worked under pull up to 350 pounds and were stainless steel. They were also designed to be used industrially and we not rated for mariitime use. They had bearing traces in them and were pretty inexpensive all things considered. I think that they would be alright for use with these sized boats and foresails. They may need replacing on regular intervals, but they are inexpensive enough that it shouldn't be an issue.

I'm in the experimentation stage obviously, here and don't know if it will be at all practical, but I've seen rougher, homemade systems that seem to work well for the "Occasional" day sailer.

Good points about the luff "bolt" wire that it be stiff enough to not twist easily and still flexible enough to coil for storage. Same with the furling line, braided rather than 3 strand. Not nearly as prone to tangle while in use.

Thanks for the comments.

[John B]

Good site isn't it ,Barry. I see what you're doing now ... you ARE replacing the forestay with the furling unit. That solves one problem I get from time to time. when I set too much tension on the jib luff( remember , mine is set flying inside the forestay,) I can get a nasty wrap where the part furled sail will pick up the forestay and try and furl it too. Not good. I've learnt what sort of tension I need to make it right . Your way eliminates that. I can't bring myself to do it though( much as I'd like to) , because my mast depends on the forestay when we sail in differing configurations with different sails set.

Anyway, it sounds like you're dealing with the strength aspects.

Oh BTW, If you want to see a modern version of the old wykham martin type do a search on code zeros. They are a "new"( there ain't nothing new) type of sail the race boats use. I just bought a new code zero top swivel and it's transformed my old furler. I forget what the bearings are made of ... some sort of fantastic plastic only kryptonite will effect.

[Fintan Murphy]

Barry,

absolutely brilliant idea (once I understood it).

I knew I'd go roller furling at some stage, and this allows me to incorporate it from the beginning. I'll be making the sails next month, and I'll incorporate the wire in the jib. I was going to go the PVC route, over the existing forestay, but this is much more elegent.

[Barnacle Jim]

Hi Barry,

If I may add to what others are saying, this is indeed a brillant idea. The drawing is good, and there's even a detailed explanation and parts list!

Thanks, Barry!

[Dave R1]

Excellent Barry.

Suppose you already had a jib with those little plastic hanks that clip onto the forestay. And suppose you wanted to use that sail with a roller furler because, for the time being you don't want to make another sail. Have you any thoughts on how one could make it work?

[Barry Pyeatt]

Thanks, I think this can work at an acceptable level. The biggest challenge as I see it is using larger sails than the standard jib or a Lapper. Then I think we need to get into some swivels with bearings that will take a heavier load.

I also see some challenges with furling line potential for tangling up on any of them when it is most critical to get the sail furled. But getting it furled is less of an issue than getting it set and having the furling line get tangled/bound while winding it up. But that is a line guide/tension issue more than anything else. That is easily overcome as I see it.

Paul J has mentioned that he has some thoughts about luff wires sewn into his sails for this purpose and I would certainly think about discussing this with him for a larger sail, such as a Lapper or Genoa.

Sure Dave, but let me get them organized in my mind and then I'll respond to the thought. I had an entire system laid out with jib hanks utilized but didn't go much further with it because I wanted to eliminate the CPVC tube running the entire length of the luff. But I've seen a couple of them that use the plastic jib hanks along with PVC pipe. I need some dimensions on the jib hank and a simple drawing of the hanks you are using. You do such clear drawings anyway.

[Dave R1]

I'll look forward to that Barry.

As to tangling the furling line, the only two furling setups I've had anything to do with (Catalina 28 and Irwin 32) both had issues with maintaining tension on the furling line while setting the sail. I haven't looked to see what the smallest ratching blocks are but maybe there's one that could be used at some point rather than a fairlead.

[Dave R1]

Barry, I think I might have a start on my furler. I just bought this:

I've already spent more on my set up than you did but this thing is supposed to be really strong.

I just found this site, too http://highlandrigging.com/products/hooks.html

[Barry Pyeatt]

Bosun's Supply has a good selection of stainless swivels. None of them ball bearing types, but I've used some of them in the past and they seemed quite smooth in their operation. They are used for rigging and available in a number of configurations.

The ball bearing type of swivels that I had found were at an ACE Hardware Store that carries all sorts of unusual and hard to find fittings and parts. They wern't that expensive, about $5 apiece for a stainless swivel with ball bearings and a 350# load rating. I wouldn't mind paying near $20 for a good one for the top swivel since it is taking the most load and is the most critical for operation. But finding it is the challenge. Anchor swivels would probably work OK.

[capt jake]

This is exactly the same concept that Paul J and I discussed a few years back. THings got strained and we never seemed to be able to make it all happen. the swivel I had purchased were either Ronstan or Harkin (the red plastic tag, you know which one). They were SS and about $18/each. They swiveled very well under my un-scientific test loading.

I still have teh prototype drum, made out of UHMW and a nylon barell. I will be interested to re-visit this whe you get here for the launching!

Unfortunately, I did not have Paul sew in the bolt rope, as I was wanting to get thingds ready to roll (pun, pun). I figure that it it very possible to re-sew in a bolt rope at a later time.

I might have missed it, but you still need to incorporate a turnbuckle at the base to adjust head tension, thus raising the drum a bit (or a lot, depending).

Sorry if I missed something in your post(s), that's what 75 hours in 4 1/2 days will do to ya!

Now where are me darned glasses?? LOL

jake

[Frank Hagan]

I might have missed it' date=' but you still need to incorporate a turnbuckle at the base to adjust head tension, thus raising the drum a bit (or a lot, depending).

[/quote']

Normally you don't have a turnbuckle on the forestay for adjustment. Loosening the shrouds makes it easy to clip on the forestay, and tightening the shrouds tightens up the forestay.

[capt jake]

Ah Frank you are right indeed; but I guess it all depends upon how your rigging is set. As far as the plan Paul and I had, it would have had (would have...) a turnbuckle to adjust the minor inperfections in tension. As it is easier to adjust the one forestay versus 4 shrouds (given they all stratch the same).

I have deadeyes currently, and they would be a buggar to re-adjust, though I have them pretty tight at present to allow for stretch.

I will be interested to see other views on this.

Hey, I am rigged without the furler, so I will see what happens anyway! :)

[Barry Pyeatt]

That came up repeatedly in conversations with other boaters that I talked to with furling gear. The overwhelming response was that if you had to go to the bow to tighten up (adjust) a turnbuckle when under sail, then why did you install it that way to begin with? All of the trailer sailors that had furling gear had it stationary and set to the right length with a set up. Then they adjusted with the shrouds. Most of them were into mast bending and tuning under sail anyway. But not a one of them would go to the bow to make an adjustment unless absolutely (like in an emergency) necessary.

The other point was as we had talked about some time back. The amount that it raised the drum and foot of the sail was significant. It was felt that if you needed to have it adjustable, to put a block at the head the sail and adjust the tension with a haryard instead. But that would tend to twist, negating the function of the swivel, and twisting the halyard with the action of the furler. They would also rather have the center of effort lower than have a turnbuckle down at the base.

So those were all points that I tried to consider in this design.

But I would want to discuss this with whoever made up my headsail and get their input as well. Whether it be Paul J or any other sailmaker. And I respect them all.

[Frank Hagan]

Deadeyes do make it harder to adjust just the shrouds.

My problem with anything on the forestay is that you had better make sure whatever it is ... turnbuckle, swivel, etc., ... is set up for the loads it will take. Most of the turnbuckles out there that are not marine grade just aren't strong enough.

The shrouds are different as the loads are divided at least in half on each side. I'm sure there are other concerns, but I would worry about a turnbuckle on the forestay unless it was REALLY big and beefy.

[Dave R1]

I've got a big, beefy turnbuckle on the forestay now. I found that in order to attach my forestay I need to loosen the t-buckle a bit. I've not seen a need to adjust it once underway, though.

I also find that my forward shrouds need to be loosened some to lower the mast

Maybe I need to make a change in my forestay arrangement. What hardware do you folks have out there on bowsprit?