Jump to content

Tiller..


Guest capt jake

Recommended Posts

Guest capt jake

Ok, maybe Frank can chime in on this. Seems he has a lot of 'design' experience here.

I traced a tiller for a Catalina 22 (Frank said Catalins, though not which one). As for length (I know, this is subjective) what would (should) you end up with?? Frank stated that he cut it, then wanted to make it longer. Thoughts??

I would like a rough idea before laminating the tiller up.

jwentz4@attbi.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Guest Tim Diebert

I made my tiller out of a piece of oak that was kicking around the shop. I was not sure how long to make my tiller either...so I just made this one knowing that I would be likely be replacing it later. As it turns out after a season of use I have found it to be too short. I would extend it about 14 inches and am considering adding a folding extension as well....for those days when side deck sitting is required.

I can tell you the length of this tiller and you can go from there. The total length is 34 inches. You can see images of my conversion from wheel to tiller at the web page posted.

I am replacing the whole rudder/tiller assembly with something else by spring. This rig was meant to be temporary. I just could not live with the wheel that came on the boat and I wanted to get on the water. :D

Hope this helps a bit

Tiller Conversion

tim@timtone.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Frank Hagan, Weekender, O

I started with a Catalina 22, and cut it so it protruded into the cockpit about 18". Too long. So I built one that protruded into the cockpit just 10". Was out of the way then, but in high winds it was pretty stiff, and hard to hold on to. So, too short.

The second one I built protrudes into the cockpit 14", and it seems just right. When put over hard to port or starboard, it ends up just about 6" forward of the side-deck and rear-deck joint, so it doesn't interfere too much with sitting there.

Because the aft attachment point on mine might be different (my rudder box sweeps back and then up), the "protrudes into the cockpit" measurement is from the FRONT of the lazarette to the tip of the tiller when it is positioned on the centerline. You'll have to add for the width of the lazarette, plus the distance to your "attachment point".

fshagan@ev1.net

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest capt jake

OK, while waiting for paint to cure, another tiller question. I have the tiller laminated with the proper 'sweep' and taper for the handle.

Mine measure 1 5/16" thick (wide) at the attachment point. The rudder box is 1 7/8" Should I simply cut a rabit in each of the cheek blocks (that will go on each side of the rudder box to hold the tiller handle) or laminate some more pieces to each side of the tiller handle (thus making it thicker at the attachment point)?

I guess I am asking because I don't know if

1 5/16" thick is 'wide' enough for the handle.

This is probably a non question, but hey, things are slow here today. :D:D

jwentz4@attbi.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Ray Frechette jr

You know I really took great delight in responding to your rubrail question advising you to chop compound angled mortises into your keel to accept the rubrails.

Had I thought of it I would have advised that for maximum strength to put compound half dovetails into the rubrail ends to interlock within the mortises.

refent1@prodigy.net

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest capt jake

Hey, you like bustin' my chops, don't ya? Like the whole paint thing. If I had just gone with the Brightsides primer and then onto the finish coat... but NO you had to make it complicated....

Anyway, I like your interactions. The tiller is all sanded and has 1 coat of varnish on 'er. Sweet lines. I traced them off a Catalona 22" tiller at Boaters World. I came home, slapped together a jig, glued it up with a bunch of scrap honduran. Bamm 'another notch', yeah baby!! LOL :D:D

jwentz4@attbi.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Ray Frechette jr

Hey, you like bustin' my chops, don't ya? Like the whole paint thing. If I had just gone with the Brightsides primer and then onto the finish coat... but NO you had to make it complicated....

Complicated? The only thing I really advocated differently than that was to put at least one coat of 404/414 on top of the epoxy after a solvet wash and sand of the hull. And I advocated getting the solvent reccomended by Interlux for their brightsides paint to tack of any sanding dust so you wouldn't use the wrong solvent and get a crinkle finish. I oopsed and used the wrong can once and had to sand that down before repainting.

refent1@prodigy.net

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest capt jake

Hey Ray, chill, I meant no offense.

When you recommended 404/414 I called Interlux and they then told me 3-4 coats of it. And they said it was hard as nails to sand.. then they said 3-4 coats of primer. They made it too complicated I suppose.

Talking to others, if the surface is cured and properly 'cleaned' there should be no adhesion problems on epoxy.

I was wondering that all along, as after I finished the kayak (epoxy) I washed it with laqcuer thinner and went to the varnish. No problems!

Now my choice of paint? Well that's another story. If I had it to do over... primer, then on to the final coats of Brightsides, IMHO.

jwentz4@attbi.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Ray Frechette jr

No offense taken.

Interlux reccomend 3-4 coats because it is also used as a barrier coat over polyester base resins in order to prevent water absorption.

Interlux did say to me that one coat would be fine as a tie coat.

I have used both Alkyd enamal and $$$Brightsides Poly$$$. Expensive but nice to work with compared to Alkyd enamel. Besides, cost savings of Alkyd is offset by the amount of paint sanded off. LOL

refent1@prodigy.net

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest capt jake

Interlux reccomend 3-4 coats because it is also used as a barrier coat over polyester base resins in order to prevent water absorption.

Interlux did say to me that one coat would be fine as a tie coat.

Shows that tech support in boating is no different than anything else. I kept telling them 'epoxy' but they insisted on 3-4 coats of barrier and then 3-4 coats of primer. This made me think,"heck with this'.

Like I have said, live and learn.........

jwentz4@attbi.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Ray Frechette jr

Deends on the techie you get stuck with.

But hey, if you put 3-4 coats on you are buying 3-4 times as much product too.

And Hey!, If you don't like how things are going with current paint you can always sand it all off and try it again.

ROFL

refent1@prodigy.net

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

Supporting Members

Supporting Members can create Clubs, photo Galleries, don't see ads and make messing-about.com possible! Become a Supporting Member - only $12 for the next year. Pay by PayPal or credit card.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.