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capt jake

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Anyone that loves outdoor equipment, doesn't matter if you hunt or fish, should once in a lifetime visit this store. It is a mind boggling experience!

They used to have some really good values in bass boat trailers, but I dont' think they even handle them anymore. And yes, they do have factory reconditioned Minikota electrics at a great price. Good warranty, until you drop them in salt. :lol: Good people to deal with from our experience in the past. They seem to know what they are talking about and are competitive.

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I'd think that's about right. A good 55-50 lb motor will push a Weekender very well in all but the more extreme situations (windy, river, etc.) Ours was able to work two of us upstream against a flowing tide running through a bridge, and I've towed Todd Schmitt's Weeknder a few times at a reasonable speed (maybe 2.5-3 kts?) :? Fast enough to not be frustrating though.

Mike

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OK, I just picked up a Minnkota 50# Endura. It is the freshwater version. Also in teh 52" shaft, which is way longer than needed, I might lok into cutting the shaft as the Stevenson's have done.

Anyway, it was marked at $198, which I thought was fair, but when I got to the counter it rang out as $150!! It had been opened but never used! :)

Now I need to get going on the wiring, in looking for a battery isolator switch, I couldn't find anything very small, I will have to go with the commercially large ones I suppose! :) I figure on the two batteries as Ray has suggested.

Amazing to me how the different Walmart stores stock items. No two stores seem to stock the same items and no two have the 'same' prices on items. Strange.. I happened to be up near Mr Smalser's hideout and stopped in the Walmart in Shelton on the way back; that's where I found it! Nope, never made it all the way to Bob's.!:) He's probably just fine with that! :)

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Just read the manual, and since I am not an electrical engineer....

The manual states that if you extend the leads to use 6 guage wire. Now earlier Barry said he intended upon 8 and I am assuming this was based on a 40# motor which probably draws less amperage.

Now, I plan on on 2 batteries in the forepeak back to the rear cabin bulkhead (a panel there); from there back to a plug for the motor.

Barry recommended 4awg from the batts to the panel, then 8awg to the motor; does this need to be increased based on what I just read in the manual.??? At first I thought 4awg was overkill, but I am not sure if that is even large enough now. :? :? :?

And check out this motor mount! :) Pretty slick for only $29. :)

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Thanks Barry! Actually I finally found a chart on their site that gives some formulas and according to the formula, the 8awg is within specs (odd this contradicts the manual??), but I may bump it up a bit, just 'cause! :)

I am seeing the light at the end of the tunnel!!!! At at last!!!!

Wiring, motor mount, lock for the cabin hatch (??), LAUNCH!!!!!!!!!

I know, I know, 'bout time... yada yada :roll: :roll: I been busy on way too many other things!

Went to a great baby shower today for my soon to be grandson!! :):D:D That was fun. :D

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Hey, so tell us more about this motor mount. :?: Curious minds want to know. It looks pretty slick and stowable?

We were just discussing electrical systems for our Weekenders talking about the wire sizing and demand. My friend here is an electrical contractor (retired) and he has rewired his Ketch a couple times to get it to where he wants it.

He feels that with the limited demand on the system that even with the heavier thrust versions of the trolling motors and about the only other demand might be the stereo system and the running lights that with #4 from the forepeak area to the main panel it should have all the capacity that anyone would ever want. He also felt that you could reasonably get away with #8 from the panel to the motor plugin but if you are wanting to be ultra conservative then go to #6. He also feels that a two panel portable solar charger would be the real ticket to the system. Just put clips on the hatch cover to hold it in place while underway. Stow it when trailering, etc. But it would provide a constant charge to the system keeping the one battery at full capacity while using the other.

Feels it is worth considering as an option from a cost/return basis. Get it home and just plug the panel in and let it sit to charge up the batteries.

He is also quite sold on the new gel cells, Optima in particular. Good batteries (even if they are expensive), but no worries about spills or if they get tipped or even punctured. He has one on his tender and swears by it.

Makes sense to me.

When you planning on getting Fire Escape wet? Might be worth timing my eye checkup trip to coincide. Wouldn't want to miss that for the world. Well...within reason that is. Another tall pineapple juice is awaiting. :wink:

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The solar panels (called battery tenders) work real slick. The Gel batteries

are the real ticket though. They are definitely worth the extra cost. I have one in my car, and when a student pulled in front of me in a snow storm (the main reason i think kids shouldnt drive till 21), my battery cracked, but didn't leak. Thats the way i'd go in my opinion.

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We run 2AWG from the forepeak to the controller under the seat. I tend to go with larger wire sizes to reduce voltage drop. West has charts (or used to) for 10% and 3% voltage drop. I use the 3% and go at least one size larger; to my mind even 3% drop is a lot. Take, for instance, 12.4 V at the battery, a 3% drop would mean just over 12V at the motor. That's a noticable drop in power, especially when you realise the whole difference in voltage between a full battery and an empty one is about one volt.

That's how I size our wires, but everybody's different.

A note about battery types: Gel-cells and Optimas are similar, but not the same. Gell cells are just what they say: gelled electrolyte. Optimas are a type of starved-electrolyte/AGM-type battery I gather. This is a similar technology in practice, but a little different in actual construction. West sells AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries, but I haven't tried them. They seem to be pretty good batteries, and we use Optimas in some of our cars as they're great batteries. One of the fellows we used to work with ended up using Optimas in our old electric race car (we had been sponsored by Trojan Batteries so we had to use those, but they were old hat really--good for wet batteries but that's not saying much.) The Optimas worked well in the race car and could take the heavy amp draw (200-300 amp at times) without problems. Gell cells probably would not have liked that load, butthey do well in the under-100 amp range.

Two panels per battery will be a great set-up. We were running about 50w/group 24 gell-cell on the Solexplors and they would be recharged in a few days.

Mike

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Well, thanks, I am better informed now. :) I didn't know the gels and optimas were that different. :)

Unfortunately, I just came home from the store with 4awg for the run from the forepeak to the control center (near the rear cabin bulhead) and 8awg from there back to the lazerette. I underestimated the cost (again)! Of course I got fuses, switched, isolators, etc.

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Wiring all completed. :) Installed a group 31 lead acid 'true' deep cycle battery with 130 AH rating. Battery isolater switch and a control panel with battery meter! :) Group 31 is about 3" longer than a group 27. It completely fills a large battery box. Only enough room in the forepeak for one of these buggars! :)

A buddy at work is bringing me a 5hp Evenrude (don't know about shaft length yet) and another electric motor. I am holding off on mounting the new one as one of these others my work fine and I can return the new one. :)

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