Don Silsbe Posted August 2, 2024 Report Posted August 2, 2024 If you’re like me, I usually ignore the sentence on topcoat paints that state “Only for use above the waterline.” Just for kicks, I wrote Interlux for an explanation. They said: “Brightside or any above the waterline paint will not work below the waterline, a few days and it will start getting water blisters. Topcoats paints are not made to be submerged under water. If you use your boat today and it goes out of the water today usually it will be ok, any longer periods of time it could start to blister.” If you sail off a trailer, looks like we’re OK. But maybe I need to rethink my strategy in certain situations. Quote
Oyster Posted August 2, 2024 Report Posted August 2, 2024 Well Brightsides is no longer avaialable. But I subscribe to the method of using Interprotect 2000 for a barrier coat for the bottom primer, sand PROPERLY and then paint over it with any and all topcoats. If I use a two part paint i also used the brand's primer over it before applying the topcoat. If its a day use boat from a trailer, I have never had a problem, even using a generic brand of Rustoleum, XO Rust from True Value hardware. There is a new single enamel, Wet Edge that i have used and its far superior to the Brightside paints. . One a point is turned over upright, I am not really interested in dealing with blistering paints. Quote
Don Silsbe Posted August 3, 2024 Author Report Posted August 3, 2024 I always considered Wet Edge to be nearly identical to Britesides, chemically speaking. If you are still in doubt, I can run it by a friend of mine who’s a chemist. I believe they are both alkyd enamels fortified with polyurethane. According to the internet, Britesides is still available. I bought five quarts of it over last winter and spring. I prefer it over Wet Edge because of its higher level of gloss. I don’t use it on my boats because it is not as durable as what I’m currently using on my boats. I plan to repaint my Core Sound 17 with Devthane 379, which is a two-part polyurethane. If that blisters, which I doubt, I’ll switch to a new technology slick bottom paint. I could use that now, but I have already purchased two gallons of Devthane for this project. I wonder what B&B used on Carlita, when they repainted her before the EC. 1 Quote
Paul356 Posted August 4, 2024 Report Posted August 4, 2024 I used to be a big fan of Wet Edge. Then I had a problem last summer with the Gray and Tan not drying. Took over a week. I think, actually, it may have had to do with their primer. The primer was dry enough that I was able to sand it and get powder, not nerdles, but still. I put the gray over some other primer this summer and it dried right up. I had called Jamestown last summer and their answer was, basically, it was all my fault. Well, thanks for that. I've been using Petit and interlux since then. I hasten to add that I have seen mixed reviews but mostly positive on Wet Edge and, like I said, had good experience in the past. Guys at my volunteer shop had good experience last summer with White Wet Edge, so maybe it's either the pigment or was the humidity. Like it doesn't tolerate anything other than air conditioned air. Don't know. Makes me very nervous, tho. Quote
Oyster Posted August 5, 2024 Report Posted August 5, 2024 Yes, the humidity does slow the drying of Wet Edge. But like so many varnishes over epoxy this has also been the case. So whether its a bonding issue of some out gassing of fresh materials over certain primers or the combination of the enviroment creating the slowing drying times, its hard to tell. Normally the thicker the material, the longer drying times. So I also took this into consideration. My favorite generic Rustoleum, XO Rust covers really good, but takes a bit longer to dry in damper conditions in the summertime. My experience is that Wet Edge has more body to it than the Brightsides, which was fairly thin. This has always required many more coats to achieve enough paint to cover your primer and stay glossy down the road. It will and has mildewed for me if my boat has sat for any length of time. I have not heard the reason for its demise and removal from the paint selections. But it was overpriced for what I felt it was worth for the long term durability. Of course I used to use my boat a lot more than many garage trailer queens. :<} Quote
Don Silsbe Posted September 22, 2024 Author Report Posted September 22, 2024 “More body” to me equates to slightly less volatiles, snd more solids. Rustoleum products are simply alkyd enamels with the addition of a rust inhibitor. Their marine product simply eliminates the rust inhibitor. I’ve bought generic alkyd enamel at the local paint store, and gotten good initial results. As far as durability goes, alkyd enamels are down on the bottom of the food chain. I’m hooked on industrial-grade two-part polyurethane. It costs around $100/gallon, which is considerably cheaper than Perfection and Britesides. My plan is a two-step plan. The centerboard and rudder have fresh coats of two-part poly on them. Windependent (AKA “The Peeler”) will come to the Messabout with only these parts newly painted. The rest will be the old paint job, which includes. After four days in the water, I’ll inspect for blistering. My desire is to paint the bottom white, as in this photo. If I get any adverse reactions from the Messabout Soak, I’ll have to go with special bottom paint. Quote
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