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Core Sound 17 #159 Refurbishment


Don Silsbe

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My favorite bedding compound for hardware is polysulfides, (3M 101 and LifeCaulk).  That being said, they do no work with plastic, like hatches and ports. Closed cell foam tape works, unless the flange is weak, and it scallops when you tighten the fasteners. Polyurethanes work with plastic, but you will probably break the hatch if you try to remove it later, the stuff is tenatious as an adhesive. Butyl is a great choice.

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As far as the lazarette is concerned, I’m leaning towards filling in the hole where the plastic hatch is, and simply having a scuttle hole on the vertical face, like PadrePoint did on his CS15.  Todd Stein made a lovely hatch cover for his vertical face, but I’m not sure that it is necessary.  Comments?  image.thumb.jpeg.94f2243b4585a5814e5296d6d79a436e.jpeg

 

Regarding sealants, I’m in a quandary regarding the boarding ladder installation.  I’ve purchased a stowing ladder like I had on my Bay River  Skiff.   image.thumb.jpeg.5d80807659fd0a270311052ca1c32026.jpegSince it is designed for a transom with a 15 degree pitch, I’ll make a 15 degree wedge out of Starboard.  This will be close to the waterline.  Will butyl tape work?  Will it compress enough to give me a pretty, tight fit?  Hirilonde advises against polysulfide.  What to do?

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@Andy B— The Core Sound mark 3’s have a self-draining cockpit, and those are the drains.  The mark 1’s cockpit sole is also the hull’s bottom.  What I plan to do is drill some drain holes into the bull’s bottom to let the water out.  If that doesn’t work,

;-), I’ll drill two holes on the vertical face of the lazarette on either side of the keel batten.  This will allow water from the lazarette to escape, rather than accumulate.  Yes, I will dab some epoxy on the raw edges of the holes, to seal them.

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interesting read.  After 9 years on the water, i have begun some refurbishing of my CS17.  
When the tropics start to heat up with Atlantic action I pit her back on the trailer and tend to some items. Also getting to enjoy the freedom of trailer sailing for a bit.  
 

so far: 

  • new bunk supports and brackets for the trailer.
  • pulled the centerboard to address some checking/delamination.  With the adage "if you built it, you can fix it".  
    pretty smooth process so far. All sanded now, and will apply some fg laminations in epoxy.  I think I skimped here during the build.  

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On 11/26/2023 at 6:35 PM, Don Silsbe said:

Get this.  The boat has a plastic hatch cover to the lazarette, made by Bowmar. IMG_0963.thumb.jpeg.e38203919832f6d9d67ec8a12da4c0db.jpeg 

Since it is old, the gaskets needs replacing.  There is a gasket both on the lid and the frame.  I like that it has a double seal.  I contacted Bowmar.  Yes, they sell replacement gaskets.  They “only” cost $10/foot, and there’s a $100 minimim, and there will be a $7.50 handling fee PLUS shipping!  I need about 15 feet.  I know that this material costs them $.25/foot to manufacture.  (Probably less, the greedy so and so’s.)  I will not be buying this gasket material from them, but going to Lowe’s to search for a substitute.  

 

Actually, I don’t like the hatch.  Since this boat has a non-pivoting tiller, access to the lazarette is somewhat restricted. IMG_0965.thumb.jpeg.e60229e421a14bd41689ccbb809faafd.jpegI’d like to eventually close this area up, and have a hatch on the vertical surface, like Todd Stein has.  IMG_0763.thumb.jpeg.6c9ecb07f5da1a8196813c5c6bba5161.jpeg
 

That will need to wait until next fall, when I strip off all this old paint.  Comments?

 

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In 9 years, no issues with the stern hatch on my cs17,  no water even after test capsize, or bottom cleaning days.  I use wooden toggles to keep it closed, with hatch seal tape as well.  
 

i did need to re-apply the tape to the port and starboard seat lockers, as well as bow hatch.  The masthead float works very well at getting the biat upright again quickly. 

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@Hirilonde—That thought has definitely crossed my mind.  I prefer a tilt-up rudder anyway.  Dnjost is also right.  With good hatch floatation seals and a masthead float, the area should be dry, except of rain seepage.  (And there has been a little of that.). Not sure what I’ll get done before the messabout back there.  Perhaps a makeshift seal and swing that rudder. Not an easy task, as it is glued to the rudder.  Guess I’m gonna be Rambo with the chainsaw, power planer, and belt sander!IMG_0561.thumb.jpeg.11202f3c3306faa94f8ae6208739d55f.jpeg

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  • 5 weeks later...

I’m back from my galavanting around.  I have been spending time on my 17, finally.  Today was a mixture of that and giving the travel trailer a good wash-down.  The centerboard trunk is almost ready for the centerboard.  I am adding the o-ringed puck pivot seal for ease of service.  I’m half done with the masthead float.  I’m also adding two pop-up cleats to the aft quarter, in hopes of eliminating the U-bolts on the transom.  Those always seemed to snag my mizzen sheet, while tacking.  Tomorrow, I’ll take photos.

 

My first objective is to add safety features (plus the cleats).  Next, I need to work on the seat hatches.    Currently they are not air tight.  I’ll be adding the boarding ladder next.   That will make her safe enough for my peace of mind.

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The centerboard trunk is ready to receive the revitalized board.  I just need to cut a pivot bolt to the correct length.IMG_3295.thumb.jpeg.83cb9ad0558dd725b13b1e4a166f6100.jpeg

 

One thing I did was dig into the seat hatches.  This boat was built by Great Falls, and it was apparent right from the start that they had deviated from the plans.  These hatches had no seals or provisions for them!IMG_3297.thumb.jpeg.4225c510ade910fe154a882fa7e9d254.jpegNotice the lack of sides on the seat hatch.

 

 As I dug deeper, I found more discrepancies.  The framing was all 1/4” plywood, with no solid lumber being used.  Looks like they made a plywood box, and glued and taped it to the underside of the seat top.  IMG_3302.thumb.jpeg.6ff0fe89f27ae84b84e61242c9f4981f.jpegThis is looking up from inside the tank.  (I had to eat mushrooms and become small to do this.)

The hinges were attached with machine screws and nuts.  The nuts interfered with the framing, preventing a good seal, if you even tried to add one.  I think the only thing to do is to tear this all out, and make it according to the plans.  I wonder if I can insert the sub assembly into the hole.  In the meantime, I will apply 3/16” weatherstrip tape around the periphery and between the nuts, to slow down water intrusion in the event of capsize.IMG_0967.thumb.jpeg.db316d773ed0812d6ef0a04c4c0e980d.jpeg

 

On a lighter note, I should be able to take her sailing in a few days.

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Sorry about the hatches.

The plastic lids on mine are not attractive, but now that I have them water sealed (I'm pretty sure, they were dry after trailering in the rain) they are useful.  They would be more expensive but faster and easier to insert.  I can tell from some evidence on mine that it initially had the planned hatches (more or less) but then switched to the plastic lids.

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On 11/27/2023 at 7:34 AM, Designer said:

Don,

 

The missing hatch sides and back were in the original drawings. You definitely have a builder modification. The good news is that what is built looks like it is to plan and shouldn't require any alteration to bring it up to spec. I would add some sides and modify the back to clear all of those nuts. Then put a straight edge on the deck across the hatch to measure the gap above the coamings for the gasket and adjust if necessary.

 

I think that you would be better off with a mizzen staysail. It will give you the most bang for the buck. It is mostly in the cockpit and easier to take down if conditions suddenly get ugly.

Also keeps the balance of sail pressure over the centre of lateral resistance.  A jib tends to make the helm go light to negative...

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On 11/27/2023 at 12:35 PM, Don Silsbe said:

Get this.  The boat has a plastic hatch cover to the lazarette, made by Bowmar. IMG_0963.thumb.jpeg.e38203919832f6d9d67ec8a12da4c0db.jpeg 

Since it is old, the gaskets needs replacing.  There is a gasket both on the lid and the frame.  I like that it has a double seal.  I contacted Bowmar.  Yes, they sell replacement gaskets.  They “only” cost $10/foot, and there’s a $100 minimim, and there will be a $7.50 handling fee PLUS shipping!  I need about 15 feet.  I know that this material costs them $.25/foot to manufacture.  (Probably less, the greedy so and so’s.)  I will not be buying this gasket material from them, but going to Lowe’s to search for a substitute.  

 

Actually, I don’t like the hatch.  Since this boat has a non-pivoting tiller, access to the lazarette is somewhat restricted. IMG_0965.thumb.jpeg.e60229e421a14bd41689ccbb809faafd.jpegI’d like to eventually close this area up, and have a hatch on the vertical surface, like Todd Stein has.  IMG_0763.thumb.jpeg.6c9ecb07f5da1a8196813c5c6bba5161.jpeg
 

That will need to wait until next fall, when I strip off all this old paint.  Comments?

Certainly the original design hatches are far more effective than this Bowman item. I suspect it was a post build mod - probably they either wanted to keep a watertight tank for bouyancy or were at the 'I can't be bothered' stage when applying decks. A question tho Don - how do you find the duckboards forward? Not seen this before...

 

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No, I ended up building a swivel ring to make stepping easier.  I have yet to use it.  I am 3 weeks out from total hip replacement surgery, so haven't sailed in a while.  Hoping to try the new method out this fall or winter.

 

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@Murray— Those are floorboards that can be relocated up to fill in the forward area.  I still haven’t sailed her yet, but I think my First Mate will appreciate them.  The attached photo shows her favorite sailing posture.  IMG_8348.thumb.jpeg.fe96974f0af9b5761d88a679f72c66d5.jpeg
 

To me, they’re a little heavy and clunky.  (The floorboards, that is.)  I might replace them with prettier ones, but that will come after the messabout.  (Still talking about the floorboards.)

 

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