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Meranti BS1088


Steve Day

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Well, I have spent the last few hours trying to get some sort of definitive answer to my question on previous posts. What I have found is a lot of discussion of the merits of Okume BS1088 vs. marine grade fir and exterior grade plywood and even blue foam, but I don't recall any discussion about Meranti. What I have gotten off Noah's site, and others, is that there doesn't seem to be any clear (to me) distinction between the two.

Am I missing something :?:

I have decided to use BS1088 plywood and am working on pricing and delivery to York with a couple of vendors. You should see the reaction around these parts when I talk to the locals about marine grade plywood. I don't think a person could get any further from the ocean in the continental US.

I am just to the point of ordering, so now is the time to change, if it is necessary. :?

Thanks,

Steve

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The only possible negative I have heard about Meranti is that it is slightly heavier then Okume.

One or the other is less rot resistant, but I can't remember which one. In an epoxy-encapsulated boat, rot resistance is probably less of an issue (unless the boat is going to live in the water.)

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OOPPSS forget this. I forgot which forum I was on. Obiviously I don't know wht the #$% I'm talking about!!! :oops:

I've read all info on the forum and a lot of information on the internet and I just about decided that I am going to use ACX plywood. The boat won't be moored in the water for long periods, I will fiberglass and epoxy all, Mike Stevenson, who has been at this the longest and probably involved with the most Weekenders says it is good to use, so why go for the real expensive stuff. Plus ACX is readily available.

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I just received a few sheets of Aquatek marine ply to try. I was told that it was Meranti, but the face plys are a pale color more like birch. The packing slip calls it marine rather than 1088 and it is labeled 5.2mm rather than 6mm. I haven't gotten out the calipers to check the real thickness yet.

My first observation was that it was a lot heavier to carry than Okume and substantially stiffer to bend across the sheet than Okume. This could be tough if you were bending it around a tight bow shape, but would be a plus if you wanted stiffness across the grain such as seat tops or aft bottom panels.

My first real dissapointment on closer examination was the thin face veneers with several voids at least 1/4" wide just under the face veneer allowing me to be able to depress the veneer with my thumb.

I haven't seen other thicknesses yet but it is still probably the best bet to take a deep breath and anti up the extra cash for Okume if you want a quality boat and if performance is important.

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I looked at using Meranti as well. As I recall it adds about 10-15 percent to the weight of the boat. The sample I got is much harder to bend.

Meranti might be a good choice for the seats and stringers, maybe for the deck. I would go with Okume for the hull and coamings.

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I hear you all. Thanks for helping me make the choice. I had a correspondence with Noah's today and the difference in price is only about $65. That might be a rather small price to pay in the grand scheme of things. The weight is an issue, since the dinghy will be hoisted onto the deck of our 40 footer from time-to-time. The "workability" of the material is a bigger issue for me.

I thank all of you for responding so quickly. 8)

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Guest Terry Winckler

Just built a Spindrift 11n out of 6 mm Hydrotek and am very pleased. A wee heavier than Okoume and $10 a sheet cheaper. Did everything I wanted, including taking a good finish. If I were going natural, I would have chosen the sacred O, but since paint was my choice, Hydrotek it is. Worked great.

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Steve I am using Meranti 1088 and 6566 from Noahs on My Belhaven.

The maranti 1088 I really like, even better than the Okoume that I used on my last boat. It is heavier but harder and it is a little stiffer. Meranti is suppost to be medium durable and Okoume nondurable but like earlier stated if its incapsulated it may or may not make any deference. I would not buy the 6566 Maranti again it is a little thinner and the color and grain on the pieces I received are nasty. You can see the deference in the pictures I have posted. The dark is the 1088.

Scott

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I am using Aquatek for my CS20. It made all the bends just fine. Hydrotek has the thicker outer plies. Many northwest boatbuilders are using Aquatek and Hydrotek with good results. Check out the Schooner Creek Boatworks Website.

My feelings are...you can cut the cost of plywood in half by using these material. If one was faced with the choice between Aquatek and marine fir, hands down no question that the Aquatek is better. The biggest drawback is weight. It is a meranti based product and much heavier than okoume.

I am using Okoume for the bright finished decking and combings, for its flexability, low weight and beauty.

Also, meranti is more rot resistent than okoume.

I have not observed the voids that Graham has described. All my plywood has had very insignificant voids if any.

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Hey Ricardo,

We hadn't heard from you in awhile. How is everything in Brazil? How is the baby - and the boat! You may be lacking in the availablity of plywood, but you sure have some beautiful woods in Brazil. Carla keeps reminding me of how good some of them would look in furniture :roll: .

Any new pictures of the babies - both of them - gee you should be able to set your baby in your boat now for a photo session -we are all waiting!

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Guest Matt Beasley

As I recently recieved the plans for cs17 hull #97 and I am on my way to get plywood today I have found this thread very timely ;-)

I had two thoughts to add. First, in the most recent issue of wooden boat magazine Chris Kulczycki brings up the point of selecting wood from sustainable forests. Meranti is listed as one of the woods "possibly" logged from unsustainable sources. This is from an 8 page article covering everything from manufacturing to selection of marine plywood, a very interesting read.

Second, about the use of ACX. Prior to getting involved in software development four years ago I spent nineteen years as Master or Mate aboard coastal freighters, ocean tugs, ferries, and even a few historic sailing and steam vessels. In that time I have had the opportunity to watch the sea tear off 1/4" aluminium plate, turn steel plate into a waffle around frames, break wheel house windows of armored glass, break 2 3/4" tow lines, rip an entire cargo off the deck of a 300 foot barge, and generally reak havoc with some of the best designed and built vessels in the world. I think the ABX with no core voids allowed is a better choice.

Well, I am off to get my boat now... :-)[/code]

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Guest ricardo de oliveira

Hi, Graham

I've been busy. Only touching up the boat now and then. The baby boy is growing fast but still leaks. The baby boat is going slower. I'm fiting the coaming. Hardware come next.

Thanks for your interest and attention. I'll post some pics as soon as possible.

All the best,

Ricardo

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Well, as the subject implies. I am now awaiting the delivery of the Okume plywood and the epoxy for my Spindrift. I decided to go with the more expensive plywood because of the weight and "workability." All of the stuff should be here by the end of the week.

Thanks for the opinions.

Steve

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