High C Posted August 28, 2003 Report Share Posted August 28, 2003 I'm considering my options for a way to hook the trailer winch to the stem for launch retreival. The plans call for a hole thru the stem, and a rope loop. This seems OK, but I'm tempted to use an eye instead. However, I'm having a hard time locating an appropriate eye. The stem is so large there that it would take a VERY long thru-bolt eye, and an expensive drill bit I don't already have. I found a great looking galvanized lag type eye with a shoulder, but the biggest they have is 1/2" x 3 1/4" This seems too short to me, and may pull out under extreme load? Jamestown doesn't have anything longer. What has everyone else done? Thanks a bunch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave R1 Posted August 28, 2003 Report Share Posted August 28, 2003 I used a bow eye like the one in the picture and replaced the rod with a longer piece. The drill bit wasn't that much money--I used a bit designed for drilling long holes for wire pulling. You might find a welder who would lengthen a standard bit for you but it is important that they get the two pieces welded together straight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Gowans Posted August 28, 2003 Report Share Posted August 28, 2003 I started with the hole and rope gromet. It works great for securing the boat to the trailer and a painter or the like, but I could not pull the boat on the trailer with it. The hole is higher than my winch and would effectively pull the bow down not forward. I used the same bow eye as Dave with a threaded rod cut to length. Make sure that the eye is threaded, many are permanently attached to the bolt. I mounted it quite a bit lower as you can see and works great for pulling the boat on to the trailer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Taylor Posted August 28, 2003 Report Share Posted August 28, 2003 I used a spade bit with a drill extender. The extender was only a few dollars and was well worth it. I attached a S/S eye nut to 3/8" allthread for the bow eye and attach point for the chain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High C Posted August 28, 2003 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2003 Good tips, fellers. I just looked at the local hardware store, and they do have the eye that Dave R1 so beautifully photographed for $6. I also already have a length of 3/8" threaded stainless rod that I could use to replace the too short bolt that it comes with. I checked, and it does unscrew from the eye. The eye was said to be made of Zemak, or something like that. I've never heard of that, but I suppose it'll not be too far from stainless on the galvanic chart. They also had a super long spade bit for $8, so I may go for the eye. I'll chew on it overnight and make the decision tomorrow. Thanks! PS: Phil, WOW! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Jones Posted August 28, 2003 Report Share Posted August 28, 2003 If you are gonna be in warm salt water, and Slidell pretty much fits that, DO NOT USE Zamack. We call it "monkey metal" and it'll corrode on you in 6 months time. What I did on the Weekender I built was use a regular 1/4 stainless U-bolt bow eye. Drilled the 2 holes just oversized for the nuts, then set the two legs, with nuts down at the bottom end of the threads, into thickened epoxy. It AIN'T coming out I put the plate that comes with it on when I did it, and then used the second set of nuts to take up the tiny bit of slack. That's exactly what I did on my own Sharpie and what I'll do on the Princess 22 I'm currently building. Once 3 inches of thickened epoxy sets over the nuts, you could pick the boat up with the fitting. By the way, we're hopeful of making the Wooden Boat show in Madisonville this year. If we get to do it, maybe we can hook up to say hello. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Cox Posted August 28, 2003 Report Share Posted August 28, 2003 HighC, here's what you need. You can pick one up at West Marine for $19.99 or From Bosun Supplies for $7.64. Here's the Website for Bosuns if you would want to order one. I ordered all my stainless fastners from them and the eye nut is what I used on my boat. 1/2 inch or course. http://bosunsupplies.com This is the page with the eye nut: http://www.bosunsupplies.com/products2.cfm?product=S0321 Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High C Posted August 28, 2003 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2003 HighC' date=' here's what you need. You can pick one up at West Marine for $19.99 or From Bosun Supplies for $7.64.[/quote'] Duhh, do I feel dumb. I have one of those holding the bow sprit to the stem. :oops: That's an obvious idea. I'm tempted to go with 3/8" since I already have the rod (and the bit is cheaper). Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdrown Posted August 29, 2003 Report Share Posted August 29, 2003 Just got a new trailer today, it's a Load-Right. The trailer the Weekender is on now is actually for one Jet Ski and was previously used for our Sunfish, so it's time to upgrade so now we can use the Sunfish again. I plan on swaping out trailers tomorrow. A few weeks ago I noticed a small crack in the paint at the bottom of the outer stem layers. This was caused by the winch pulling down on the stem (and possibly tightening it too tighly), and was a result of me not knowing what I was doing when I was assembling the keel (it was the first time I had ever used fiberglass resin(which I should not have used as a glue) and don't know if I mixed it well or added enough MEKP, but it is also screwed with 1-1/2" SS #8 screws). I might drill a lower hole so the hole is lower than the winch, but I do not want to do that unless it is absolutely vital. I'm not sure if this is a large problem, as things do shift after they are used (and trailered to Massachusets and back) and hopefuly it won't move any more than the 1/32" of an inch that it did. Tomorrow I am swaping out trailers, that should be fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdrown Posted August 29, 2003 Report Share Posted August 29, 2003 Attachment [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Cox Posted August 29, 2003 Report Share Posted August 29, 2003 High C those prices where for the 3/8" eye nut. I was just stating that I had used a 1/2" on the Vacationer. Dad paid $16 for an 18" wood auger bit at HD to drill the holes in the stem. I used 1/2" solid stainless rod and cut the threads on each end for the nuts. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdrown Posted August 29, 2003 Report Share Posted August 29, 2003 The boats on the new trailer after a long day of sailing at Lake Nockamixon. The new one fits much better and should be fine, especialy after I make a keel chanel for it. I'm not sure if what I brought up earlier about the stress down on the stem is actually a problem as I haven't noticed any developments after taking the boat down to the lake and back twice this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Pyeatt Posted August 29, 2003 Report Share Posted August 29, 2003 Tyler, The keel is strong enough that pulling the boat on and off of a trailer shouldn't cause any problems with the stem seperating. You could probably hang the boat from the bow eye with a line and it wouldn't be a problem. The biggest challenge I see in your future as far as maintenance is concerned is the use of finishing resin to assemble your boat. Over the winter the wood is going to move as it freezes and thaws. That is likely to cause the layers to want to seperate as the wood moves. So you are going to want to look things over very carefully and any cracks or seperation need to be explored and fixed as they occur. Otherwise moisture may cause a lot more serious issues. Glad you are getting a chance to use it this summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High C Posted August 30, 2003 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2003 Thanks for all the help. Has anyone used the rope loop as in the plans? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Pyeatt Posted August 30, 2003 Report Share Posted August 30, 2003 I'm set up to use it, but I know I will install an eye below it for the trailer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High C Posted September 2, 2003 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2003 By the way' date=' we're hopeful of making the Wooden Boat show in Madisonville this year. If we get to do it, maybe we can hook up to say hello.[/quote']You bet Charlie. I was planning to enter my Weekender at Madisonville, then I saw the registration fee is $100! I'm having second thoughts. Madisonville has turned into a big, profitable festival with way too many people. They should not be charging the boat owners anything. And since the boat is not big enough to stay on for the weekend we may not go, not sure yet. Maybe we'll launch her in the Tchefuncte and just mosey around without entering the show. At any rate, let me know via email if you're coming and we'll try to hook up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 2, 2003 Report Share Posted September 2, 2003 This is what I used. The base is 1 1/4 inch across it. I don't know what your width of your stem piece is , though. I pilot drilled the hole, for the rod, in a little, and then I took a small 1/4 inch paddle bit, 12 inches long, and finished the hole. There is an extention for the paddle bits, that will extend it even longer. But the hole will have to be larger. Then I went inside and checked to make sure where it came out and redrilled it down, clearing it out. If you have it lined up, at that point then drill the regular size hole for the threaded rod. I used 5200 on the threads, placing it on the threads in small amounts, as it went in, and used a ground washer on its sides, and and then nut tightened up. MIne was on and angle, but yours will be okay to flush it out inside. It is used for a lifting eye for davits. [attachment over 4 years old deleted by admin] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High C Posted September 2, 2003 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2003 Thanks Oyster, I've decided to go with one of these: and a threaded SS rod. Now if I can just hold the dang drill straight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capt jake Posted September 4, 2003 Report Share Posted September 4, 2003 On my Weekender, I was able to use a VERY long galvanized 1/2" eye bolt. I think it was 12", maybe 14". I bought some extra long bits from Harbor Frieght (cheap) and drill all the way through the keel at the bow. I did have to use a die grinder to create a small pocket on the inside so that there was enough thread to grab onto. It worked out fine and only cost about $6! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Eli Daniel Posted September 4, 2003 Report Share Posted September 4, 2003 Two suggestions... for my bow eye, I used one of these, intended as a boom bail, and just bolted through the stem. Works great. It cost about $20 from sailnet.com. As to the difficulties of drilling straight holes, I put together some plumbing fittings as a perpendicular drilling jig... first, a floor flange like this: Then threaded into it, a reducing pipe coupler whose diameter is just a little larger than the hole you want to drill. You put the wide, flat part of the flage on the surface you want to drill perpendicular to, and run the drill bit down through the middle of the coupler and the flange. Basically, this just provides an easy way to eyeball your bit being straight... you want to keep the shaft of the bit right in the middle of the coupler (which is a tube not much wider than the bit itself). It makes it pretty easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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