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New Mandy owner


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About the lug setup, a loose loop of line will definitely work to keep the yard close to the mast as Don suggests.  Other traditional solutions include adding parrell beads, or using a wooden or iron hoop.

 

I use the "Storer loop" with a hook lashed to the yard.   It's very quick to rig and derig. The halyard comes back from the throat end of the yard, passes around the mast opposite the yard (not really a wrap) and catches the hook on the aft side of the mast, then up to the top of the mast.  When I derig, I leave the halyard tied to the end of the yard. I only remove the halyard from the hook, loosen the downhaul, and bundle the boom, sail and yard.  Next the mast comes down and -- done.

 

As Don said, try stuff and see what works for you. Keep up the good work!

 

Bob

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On 10/1/2022 at 8:14 AM, Designer said:

There is a reason why the halyard is led aft. The boat has single line reefing, if rigged properly. It is very convenient to be able to reef the boat from the helm in seconds.

 

Ah, so my Amanda might be rigged in a sub-optimal way then, since it does have the reefing line but my halyard terminates on a horn cleat on the mast instead of running aft.

 

My current mast base plate has three holes in it (downhaul, boom vang, reef). I was thinking it might be better to just switch it to a 4-hole plate like the Spindrift rigging plans show and add an extra block+shackle for the halyard there, compared to putting the extra block on the deck next to the mast?

 

I got some longer halyard line so I figure I'll try out the rear halyard setup next time I'm on the water by temporarily borrowing the reefing line block/cleat, as soon as weather/scheduling permit.

 

Assuming the tryout goes well - if anyone has an extra Racelite RL-201 and Harken 072 lying around (and/or a Sprindrift 4-hole mast base plate!) they would like to sell, hit me up.

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Trial run with the halyard ran aft went great. I ended up borrowing the boom-vang block & cleat because the wind was picking up and I was worried I would need to reef, but it worked well enough without it to test the configuration. Super easier to do a final approach to the dock when you know with a pull of the line you can drop sail. (Blurry) pic:

IMG_20221010_144357229.thumb.jpg.4bb429a54ac7d04b0c43d5314d34fa1e.jpg

 

Didn't notice there was an existing empty hole in the boom I could have run the halyard through until I was back and demasting. Guess I shoulda used that instead of going around

IMG_20221010_153945495.thumb.jpg.a8cf0837d5ab9587e6e9d5fe50f6a34e.jpg

 

Love the suggestions on how to make it permanent on the cheap (is it that obvious that would appeal to me?). I was kind of laughing to myself thinking about just turning the existing plate around backwards and drilling 4 holes on the other end (something about not being centered really bothers me). A double block would of course work, duh again. I'll have to see what they have available at the local used chandlery (a word i just learned).

 

Success also on the "storer loop". My version:

IMG_20221010_141421810.thumb.jpg.01db451fd3cb717a2491abcd874b19a9.jpg

 

Note in above pic: the only thing that wasn't successful today was my homemade pig stick electrical-cord "mount". It never actually fell off but it was close 😉

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Update on adding a block to run the halyard aft: Easiest/cheapest for me was to get B&B to sell me a 4-hole plate and an extra block+shackle (for less $ than just the double block at that popular marine retailer, mind you). Swapped out and looks and works great.

 

And I accidentally discovered a pretty good method for adding 'bungee' to the tiller tamer: just use dollar store 3/16" braid instead of real sta-set or whatever. it stretches just the right amount for my setup.

 

Now I just gotta work on my tiller extension coordination. (At least I store it disconnected now, so thats a start right?)

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2 hours ago, Don Silsbe said:

I store my tiller extension disconnected.  It will last a whole lot longer that way.

I use my tiller extension on my Spindrift and Lapwing every time I go sailing, regardless of wind speed. The only time I remove them is to varnish.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got a chance to follow Graham's advice (obviously) and try to get used to using the tiller extension.

After initially trying out awkward overhand grips with the extension in front of me and steering the boat like a drunk truck driving student learning reverse for the first time, I think I finally caught on to just holding the end of the extension next to me near the gunwales and just using it to push/pull the tiller (instead of manipulating it in 2d). Works a lot better that way I think. Felt pretty conformable, and (although it might just have been the winds) the boat picked up more speed than usual.

 

Comedic story: after a perfect approach to slow to a stop at right at the dock, I forgot to tie off to the dock before releasing the halyard to drop sail, so then like an idiot I remembered and tried to walk up to the front of the boat with the sail still halfway up and then I lean over to grab the dock pier and then (of course) the whole boat turns over and I get to go for a swim. Somehow the daggerboard had come out of the slot also, so my normal righting technique was out, and I just grabbed a line attached to the boat and swam with the line towing the sideways-floating boat up the ramp. Only item not tied down: my hat, which I had actually found a couple years back floating in some nearby water: its on to the next owner i guess. 🙂

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  • 2 months later...

I took the Mandy out for the first time this season to see another homemade boat out on the water.

I last saw it when he was building it in his front yard (its a little bigger than the mandy):

 

seeker.thumb.jpg.62517075bdf74959d0a21bd61c8950bb.jpg

 

Stupid story: forgot to take the centerboard out when entering a windless cove and switching to rowing. makes for an awkward surprise when you run into a sandbar when the thing you're sitting on gets pushed upward...

  • Haha 1
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