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Keeping a CS 20 in a slip for two months in Pacific Northwest


sanmi

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A 360° white light on a sailboat is an anchor light only.  To have one lit while steaming would be a deception and dangerous.  A stern light is to be used at all times after dark, along with the red and green.  A steaming light is for a sailboat under power at night. It is only fairly recently that the Coast Guard has approved masthead tri color lights as running lights under sail. It used to be that some offshore boats would have both the hull/cabin mounted and masthead running lights.  The masthead lights only being used off shore, where the CG had no jurisdiction as they were safer in big waves. 

 

I think I would be confused if I saw the masthead tricolor and a steaming light in the dark.  I'd probably figure it out, but the old configuration is burnt into my head.

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On 2/4/2022 at 3:48 PM, Designer said:

I see that flexible panels are getting better and with the promise of longer life. I was considering putting a 100w flexible panel on Southern Skimmer. I was thinking or mounting it on a well epoxied panel of 6mm okume ply with 6mm ply ribs for cooling so that I can lash it down the center of the cabin as it's home position. When it is in the shade I can move it to the sunny side. The problem with doing that on Carlita is that the panel is built like a tank and it is comforting to leave it bolted down. As I write this I suppose I could rework the frame making it well padded with 4 good eyes for lashing it in place.

 

I have only been to Port Townsend twice but from my limited observations it is not as sunny as it is here plus you have a lot of light air and big tides. What you have is certainly enough to get you back in before dark in a calm on a day sail but for a serious trip it would be nice to rev up your system.

 

How many Amp-hours per day were you getting from your solar charging system on your DelMarVa trip? I have a SunPower 50W flexible solar panel https://www.expertpower.us/products/sunpower-50w-solar-panel. I intend to mount it on the cabin top in between the hand rails which will give me room to move it about 10” port or starboard depending on where the shade is.

 

18 hours ago, Designer said:

I prefer the tricolor with anchor light at the top of the main mast. Here is the connector that I am using with the female part mounted on the forward bulkhead under the deck to starboard of the mast. https://sea-dog.com/groups/737-polarized-electrical-outlet  I currently do not have the masthead light and do as Dave says. It sure would be nice to just flick a switch sometimes. I once had a coaster captain tell me that he first thought that my masthead light was a star. It was 50' above the water.


I'm liking idea of a tricolor masthead light more and more. The main benefit in my mind is that it eliminates the need to route so many wires, especially the wire to the stern, and I won't have to pop as many holes in my bulkheads and deck or drill into my transom. I'm also adding a 12V receptacle in the cockpit for hanging a separate anchor light from the main topping lift.  Current favorite is NASA Marine https://www.nasamarine.com/product/supernova-combi-tri-and-anchor-l-e-d-mastlight/

 

Thanks for the connector recommendation. It looks better than the SAE connector I've been planning to use elsewhere.

 

Regarding the comments about a steaming light, I don't foresee a lot of motoring at night, especially since we will only carry an electric outboard, but if the need arises I will mount my backup NaviSafe battery powered LED on the bow pulpit.  

Back to the bottom paint. Any ideas how to find the fore/aft strike positions on my waterline without putting the boat into the water? There are no scum lines that give me a hint.  image.thumb.png.eae78bf423ac65ba9c7f6bbac8b758f8.png

image.thumb.png.bb0226fd67fd9ca4e26324b08bfa956f.png

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Frank,

 

It took a while to find your boat's file and dig up an activation key for the old CAD program. Anyway it is now up to the CS20mk2.thumb.png.5e65c2186111ef6cb3878b960b7bc837.pngcurrent issue.

 

I drew the Datum WL at 1470 # displacement. As has been discussed above, that there are always ripples on the surface and boats are rarely in perfect trim. I drew the painted WL 2" above the DWL Which works out at 12" below the chine at the stem and 3 1/2" below the chine at the transom.

 

If you want to put on a boot top. It is 3" high at the bow, 1 1/2" amidships and 2" high at the transom.

 

Remember all of these dimensions are measured vertically and not up the slope of the hull

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@DesignerGraham, thank you! My preparation todo list is quite long and having those dimensions and your instructions takes a weight off my mind.

 

On 2/4/2022 at 1:46 PM, Randy Jones said:

I'm facing a similar problem 100 miles north of you.  I agree you'll need bottom paint and am curious what you are allowed to use in Washington State.  Let us know what product you decide to use.      


@Randy Jones
Thanks for bringing this up. Where I live in California there are restrictions but I think the local West Marine seems to be on top of it. I googled Washington state bottom paint and found lots of conflicting info on the a 2011, 2018 and 2020 law. The summary is that Washington passed a bad law in 2011 banning copper bottom paint, reassessed it in 2018 and then again in 2020/21 and now has suspended it until 2026 with a plan to come up with a better rule - so pleasure boat owners can still use what the rest of the US has. 


https://waggonerguide.com/copper-bottom-paint-in-washington-until-2026/

Our trip is broken down this way: six weeks of part-time training in Olympia while I work remotely. The boat will be in the water walking distance from where we are staying. The goal is "certify" Julie as a skipper - so she can operate the boat single handed (MOB drills, docking, sail handling). We expect light winds and lots of rain. Then, we will do a two week full-time cruise at the end of May, possibly in San Juan Islands, Gulf Islands or lower Puget Sound.
Maybe we can meet up at some point?

Frank
 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Sent you a PM.

The lower half of Puget Sound is easy access from Olympia and often overlooked by everyone rushing up to the San Juans.  Should be mostly empty in May.  You might easily kill two weeks cruising your way around the lower sound and/or the 100 miles up to Port Townsend along the same route used by the Salish 100.  Google "Salish 100" and you'll find good info on the route which takes you north thru the populated central sound.

San Juans are much more natural and remote then the central sound but a long ways from Olympia and probably best accessed via trailer. 

Weather is another consideration.  Most of our rain comes October to April.  You may be OK in the south sound in May but Olympia gets significantly more rain than the San Juans.  Rain stops everywhere up here mid July to mid September along with most of the wind.  San Juans in May could be an ideal combination of dry weather with some wind.     

Just for fun I've attached a photo showing my bottom paint issue - ankle deep in pacific oysters.  Too big for my taste but I don't feel good about mooring over them with copper bottom paint.     

beach at mystery bay washington.jpg

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