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I bought a used Core Sound 17 in great condition have one question about centerboard


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I wonder if the rope ever breaks that lifts and pulls down the centerboard?  If Im out sailing on a trip how would I fix

that? I see the one rope in the center. Is there a rope to pull it down and onw to lift it?????

This is one reason I was looking at the SeaPearl 21 because it had it dagger boards in the open for easy service.

I wonder how I service this centerboard if that rope ever breaks. Is there two ropes or one and how does it work.

Im new to the Core Sound 17 as you can tell.

 

 

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There must be at least a half dozen variations on rigging the centerboard on B&B boats.

 

It looks like you have a closed trunk and just an uphaul for the centerboard.  If this is so, then you likely have a weighted board as well.  If this is so, then a repair underway would be near impossible, but also unnecessary. Sail to the ramp, pull your boat keeping in mind you will have to lift the board manually as you load it.  Go home and fix it.

 

There should be a cap on either side of the trunk, probably round, near the bottom and forward.  If you remove these caps you will expose the pin the board pivots on.  Tap the pin out from one side to the other and the board is free to drop out the bottom. It sounds, and actually is simple, but it sure can be a fiddley thing to do. Make sure to seal the cap, bed it, when you replace it.

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That is not the "as designed" centerboard pennant, it has been clearly modified by the builder. The standard centerboard has a handle that comes out above the trunk and has two external lines, one to lower the board and one to raise it.

 

If there is only one line, I assume that the board has a lead weighted tip for lowering and that line is for raising.

 

We do that on the Mk3 boards but they need a 6: 1 purchase. 

 

You should be able to tell when using it. Looking at the size of the pennant and how new it looks, my guess is that it will never wear out assuming that the builder got the geometry right.

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I agree with Hirilonde (and “Designer” Graham Byrnes, of course.)  But let me make a suggestion.  In your photos, I see a roughly 3”x3” pad  that attaches the turning block to the c/b trunk.  If you’re in luck, this pad will not be glued in place.  Regardless, I’d remove the block with the board down (boat in the water).  The terminal end of the line should be in view from the top of the c/b trunk for your inspection.  With luck, you might even be able to replace the line, if necessary.  

I have also deviated away from the uphaul/downhaul system on my boat, and also use a weighted board.  Both have their advantages.  On my boat, the whole c/b trunk is easily removable for this inspection, which I do annually. I also use dyneema line for the pennant, switching to dacron in the latter portion of the system.  (My uphaul system is configured differently than yours, and is 4:1.)

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Additional photos would help.  
 

From these two photos, it appears that the uphaul is aft of the pivot point.  It is puzzling to me that the uphaul is only 1:1.  This would make me want to pop off the entire c/b trunk cap, to see how it works.  You should be aware that you’ll need some sort of seal between the cap and the trunk, if you do this.  At first, I didn’t have a seal, and water splashed in via the aft end of the trunk.  I added a thin foam seal, and it has been dry ever since.  But this is a good puzzle.  Keep the photos coming.

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Congratulations on the boat. 

Another fine example of builder's not following the plans.  I suggest you open the trunk and satisfy yourself that the arrangement is sound or convert it back to the standard design.  My CS17Mk1 with standard centerboard has always been trouble free.

If I was buying a used CS17 I'd confirm that hatches are water tight and practice reefing in the driveway.      

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Few more pictures. The man I bought it from I bet didn't know there was a different design. It always worked for him and his wife sailing it. The board stored with clips on the side of the trunk to fill in deck for sleeping.

I was wanting to lift this boat with 3" wide straps and 6ft wide bridals since I have the 5000lb davits and put them

to use. I could sit the boat on some foam blocks on the gravel and would be easy to work on and keep a cover over it instead of sitting on a lift. I could then use the lift for some other boat. I wish it had D rings to lift with but it doesn't.

The flare edge to keep spray away might be a problem for straps but the 6Ft Bridals should hold the straps out

from that and come up more straight.  I think.   Maybe this boat is not for me with this centerboard design. I might be better to buy a Sea Pearl 21 what I was thinking about in the first place because I like that  everything is out in the open to be able to fix it like the daggers off the sides. Hmmmm       There are more Sea Pearls 21's around here but no Core Sound 17 guys that could help me.  I didn't know people did changes to the plans?????

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First of all, I don’t see why you couldn’t add a couple of U-bolts on the transom to lift with your davits.  I have to assume that there’s a bow eye.53841E53-D9B0-4FCB-9B43-E0585F4F16A0.thumb.jpeg.a50a71afb1d3afc2e208b6ded87e4134.jpeg
 

 

Some of the guys on this forum used to have Sea Pearls.  I’ll defer to them on that.  Let me just suggest that you sail this a few times and then sail a Sea Pearl. 

 

Regarding your c/b pennant, I don’t see what’s wrong with just popping off that cap, and having a look-see.  I plan to be in Jacksonville and Avon Park in February, and Sarasota in March.  Where is the boat located?  Maybe I could help.

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The new pictures tell me a lot more. The centerboard pin and cap are built to the plan. The centerboard is resting on a keel roller which means that it can be raised a couple of inches. As there is only one line for raising and lowering, there must be a ballasted tip for lowering. I would pull on the centerboard pennant to see if you can raise it all of the way up.

 

I suspect that there is no purchase inside the trunk and you just have a hole in the board for the pennant . Depending on how much ballast there is and my guess at the fore and aft position of the turning block, it should take around 50# to raise the board. As you have a crane I would lift the boat and lower the board. When the board is vertical the pennant attachment should be below the hull. You should be able to pull the board forward of vertical if necessary. 

 

The upper drawing is the standard configuration. The blue line pulls the board down, the red line pulls the board up and the magenta line is a shock 1802363299_CSCBtrunk.thumb.png.02ad808a43a1324b606a9c3d2e11450b.pngcord spring.

I modified the lower drawing to what I suspect was done on your trunk.

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I will upload other pictures of centerboard from under the boat and with a snake camera looking 

up in the the trunk should be interesting. Will also show the U Bolts on the transom and the large

cleat on the Bow deck and the backing of that if there is any.

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I'm just chiming in as a Sea Pearl owner.  I would echo the comments about giving your new boat some more time.  As you might guess, I'm here because I really like the Core Sound design, either in addition to or in replacement of my Sea Pearl.

 

In case you are serious about switching boats so soon, here are a few things to consider.  The Sea Pearl would need some work to get up on the davits, too.  Yes, there is a bow eye fore and two cleats aft, but it's also narrower,  pointy on both ends, and four feet longer than the CS 17.  On the SP21 message board there are posts about using davits that you would want to consult. 

 

Regarding the leeboards, yes they are exposed and easy to see, but there are also ramifications in sailing ability to consider.  That may be good for you or not.  Plus, with the Sea Pearl, yes you can see the leeboards, but if the universal joint is broken, you cannot replace that with plywood and epoxy.  There are pros and cons to both.

 

If I can be blunt, you're making a mountain out of what is in reality a once a year inspection issue.  You bought the boat to sail, not inspect the centerboard.  Take a peek, make sure it's solid, fix or alter it if you want, and go sailing.  If you don't like the CS 17 after that, give me a ring and I'll tow it north from my spring break trip for you :)

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Have some more pictures if centerboard and the large pin looks in good shape. You can see the U bolts in stern and

the large cleat on front deck bolted through and the U bolt bolted through large block for trailer hook. Last picture is the other U bolt in the stern.

 

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On 1/4/2022 at 7:22 PM, Don Silsbe said:

First of all, I don’t see why you couldn’t add a couple of U-bolts on the transom to lift with your davits.  I have to assume that there’s a bow eye.53841E53-D9B0-4FCB-9B43-E0585F4F16A0.thumb.jpeg.a50a71afb1d3afc2e208b6ded87e4134.jpeg
 

 

Some of the guys on this forum used to have Sea Pearls.  I’ll defer to them on that.  Let me just suggest that you sail this a few times and then sail a Sea Pearl. 

 

Regarding your c/b pennant, I don’t see what’s wrong with just popping off that cap, and having a look-see.  I plan to be in Jacksonville and Avon Park in February, and Sarasota in March.  Where is the boat located?  Maybe I could help.

Yes Im just south of Sarasota  in Saint James City Florida in Cherry Estates on Skipper Lane on the water.

There are U bolts on the stern in the pictures. Maybe some large ones could be installed if needed. The

Large cleat in the bow deck is heavy duty and the U bolt for the trailer hitch is heavy duty backed up by large

block as in pictures.   If you get down this way it would be great to get your idea on things. The U bolts in the picture you sent SeaDog stainless might be better for the stern with their backing steel plate then what is there just to make it stronger.

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There’s a good chance we’ll be in Sarasota in March.  I’m attending a boating event with my Bay River Skiff 15, and visiting friends for a day or two as well.  I’d be happy to pop in and look things over.  My email address is donsilsbe@gmail.com.
 

My c/b is weighted, so I may provide my bride with a nice lounging deck.  (See photo) The horn would have gotten in her way.  The horn (with uphaul and downhaul)  provides a much more precise method of controlling the board, though.8FA9EBD4-7E08-432A-A261-31217EABFD81.thumb.jpeg.d3e7f1515e65e967009c65103ce733c4.jpeg

 

I like it that the U-bolts are vertical.  Backing plates or fender washers would be a good idea.  Not sure if the deck would withstand the load, if you attached to the bow cleat.  That depends upon how much wood is in the “sandwich”.  Maybe others will comment on this round of photos.

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The winch cleat in the bow nose seems to be strong and backed up. The large cleat on the top deck not sure how

much wood is there either. I have a insert board for one side where I can lay down and could make one for the

other side of the trunk aswell.

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I have a Honda 2.5 that came with it but Im looking to buy and Torqeedo  and 1103 electric and go all electric with also a extra two batteries for backup and larger range plus large fold out solar panels to charge the batteries while camping and staying on islands and beaches I explore in south west florida to the everglades and ten thousand islands.  Don't have to worry about finding fuel which is great and no gas on board. The high cost of fuel isn't going down anytime soon either and I won't care. I see so many motor boats here on the water not going out because they don't want to pay the high price for fuel. I don't want to be in that way living on the water with a lift behind my home on the water. Seems a waste and Im going another way to get around the dumb fuel prices.

 

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Im changing my plan and looks like I will put the Core Sound 17 on the boat lift once I get the bottom

part of the lift rebuilt later this year. Ive decided I will just use the Davits to lift it for service if needed

in the future. Im sure the boat lift company will figure something out when they replace the cables on the davits aswell. But mainly the davits will be used to lift for service and nothing else. The boat lift has no cover so mast are no problem either.Centerboard will just be cranked up and will slide right on the trunks on the lift. It should make things easy.  Im going to have a new Lifting Deck style lift system for sailboat and kayaks and other things can be added aswell.

 

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