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Core Sound 20 Mark lll Build


don6558

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Let me start by introducing myself. I'm Don and I live in the Greater Vancouver BC area.

My wife and I are commercial long haul truck drivers so the time I get to spend working on my boat is very limited.

I started this build 3 designs/plans ago. I'm working from the full size templates not precut kit.

1st template had missing pieces. I had already cut quite a few parts out at this point. 2nd set Graham added height to cabin. I did not realize what an impact this would make on parts cut from template 2 until I started to assemble. Unfortunately template was ultimateley to crowded and a 3rd template was produced from which I have cut and continue to cut my parts some 5 years later. A lot of my time has been making the parts fit properly.

Well, I'm finally about to start installing the seats, sole and roof.

I do have a question before I install the sole over the balast tank. I'll be using a 12v transfer pump to fill and empty the tank. I'm thinking I will use 3/4" pvc pipe and epoxy it into the tank from the starboard locker. Does any one have a sugestion as to how I should set up the sump foot inside to pick up the most water. I know I won't get all the water out and I'm concerned about the pleasure craft inspection stations throughout North America. Any ideas?

Don

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Can you pour some water into the ballast tank to determine where the lowest point of the ballast tank is?  It should be directly underneath the hatch cutout, but you can confirm it using water (assuming the boat is sitting correctly on the cradle)?

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Hi Don, I built s/n#2 and used a ski boat ballast pump, it is plumbed up with 1/2 pvc with the intake as far forward in the  tank as possible.  I had some concerns of mud and gunk getting into the tank being hard to clean but that hasn’t been much of a problem.  We have been inspected several times but no problem with water being in the ballast tank.  The pump gets all but a qt or so out, then if I want to really dry the tank out I use a sponge and jack the front of the trailer up to get the little water left to sponge out.  When the boat is stored we leave the hatch cover off and I guess evaporation dries it out no problem.  I put the intake/outlet in the centerboard trunk, might not be the best place because if I do any pinstripes on the bottom of the bay, I get mud in the tank from the muddy board.   We finished the boat in 2015 and the pump still works fine, a little noisy till I mounted it in some rubber mounts. 

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3 hours ago, Jknight611 said:

Hi Don, I built s/n#2 and used a ski boat ballast pump, it is plumbed up with 1/2 pvc with the intake as far forward in the  tank as possible.  I had some concerns of mud and gunk getting into the tank being hard to clean but that hasn’t been much of a problem.  We have been inspected several times but no problem with water being in the ballast tank.  The pump gets all but a qt or so out, then if I want to really dry the tank out I use a sponge and jack the front of the trailer up to get the little water left to sponge out.  When the boat is stored we leave the hatch cover off and I guess evaporation dries it out no problem.  I put the intake/outlet in the centerboard trunk, might not be the best place because if I do any pinstripes on the bottom of the bay, I get mud in the tank from the muddy board.   We finished the boat in 2015 and the pump still works fine, a little noisy till I mounted it in some rubber mounts. 

Good info. Exactly the info I needed. As I mentioned my concern was water in tank and inspections and you answered the concern.

I'm thinking if I plumb outside the tank with PVC and attach a length of garden hose inside, I can easily target the stuborn water through th access hatch like you said.

Thanks again.

 

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Hi!

on my boat I placed a live bait tank pump in the battery compartment with the pick-up as close to the keel as  possible this is because these pumps are not self priming so the pump has to below the water line, I then used a bulkhead fitting to go thru the forward bulkhead of the ballast tank this is my fill pump. In The ballast tank right under the access hatch I placed a bilge pump plumbed out thru the starboard bulkhead exiting above the water line each will have its own switch on the power panel I know this seems awkward way to do it but when I saw how muck those ski boat water ballast pumps cost this was my compromise but I’am ok with it

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I had my son 3-D print a pump pickup that fits a bilge pump. It functions to fill the tank quietly, but can easily be used to empty the tank as well by moving a hose. The relevant part is I put the Anderson bailer in as close to the center-line as practical. By leaving it open on the trailer, any residual water is gone after a drive of any kind.  We also have inspections here and they are pretty serious. If there is residual water you aren't launching without treatment. I have seen the results of invasive species here and wouldn't want to contribute. 

 

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