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Shortening too-long OARS . .


Pete McCrary

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About 15 years ago I made two sets of oars to use with the Penobscot 14 that I made.  Each pair were made of three 8’ lengths of 2” x 2” (actual cut dimensions) Sitka spruce, the third length was cut into 4 two foot lengths for the blade.  Wonderful to row with.

 

When I sold the boat last summer, I let a pair go with it and kept the other [pair].  But they’re too long and won’t slip under the midship thwart of Seabiscuit, my Spindrift 10.  A cheap 8’ one-by-four proved that a 7’ 1” oar would be OK.

 

So I got up my nerve to make two 8/1 scarf cuts into each of my beautiful oars.  Fortunately I already had a rig that I made to cut tapered table legs years ago.  Here are a few pixs showing the rig and cuts:

 

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Wouldn’t even fit between the fore and aft bulkheads.

 

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Much less slip under the midship thwart.

 

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Bottom side of the scarfing rig.  Both table saw top and rig bottom were rubbed with bees’ wax.

 

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After the cuts.  For the cut the oar shaft was clamped to the 2 x 3 which was set for an 8/1 cut.  The first cut was started just near the leathers.  For the second cut the shaft and rig were both marked and then the shaft moved up exactly 12” for a 12” shorter oar.  Error!

 

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Resulting in a 13” shorter oar.  Forgot to account for the saw “kerf.”  Elongated at that!

 

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Dry-fitted — they line up nice and straight.  While dry-fitted in perfect alignment, I’ll index [each pair] assembly with two wax-coated finishing nails — so they won’t slip from alignment during the glueing process.

 

When finished I’ll post photos of the shortened pair. 

 

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  • Pete McCrary changed the title to Shortening too-long OARS . .

That would be a lot more trouble (in my opinion).  Also, it would shorten the 8-sided part of the oars inboard of the leathers and require relocating the leathers.  That would then show the shaft (that's inboard of the [relocated] leathers) as part 8-sided and part cylindrical.  And the shaft outboard of the [existing] leathers is tapered -- complicating the installation of new leathers and altering the designed balance [of the oars].  The existing leathers and buttons would probably be ruined by their removal (they were attached with copper tacks).

 

Which reminds me: Don't forget to slip the closed oarlocks onto the shafts before gluing up the scarfs!

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It all went quite well — not nearly as difficult as expected.  Here are a few pixs:

 

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Notice the two indexing 2” x 3/32” D finishing nails.  They were easily pulled out about 5 hrs after glueing but before an overnight cure.

 

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After clamping they were removed from the (unheated) shop to our dining room table.  It’s nice to have a tolerant wife.

 

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The next morning.

 

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Back in the shop.  Nice and straight, but the starboard oar is like 3/8” longer — and I won’t let it bother me.

 

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QUOTE from earlier: “Which reminds me: Don't forget to slip the closed oarlocks onto the shafts before gluing up the scarfs!”


I forgot anyway!  Remembered last night just before falling asleep.  So, off with the glued-on buttons — or, like the other pair that went with the Penobscot 14, I’ll cut a slot in the top of each lock, slip them over narrowest part of their shafts, and close the oarlock’s tops with lashings.


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Each oar clears the transom.

 

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And the aft seat.

 

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The blades lie nice and flat and won’t seriously hinder movement in the cockpit.

 

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See the misalignment of the scarf on the edge towards the oar blade.  That’s the result of the shaft being slightly tapered.  I’ve positioned the two pieces so that the difference is minimal near the leathers — which leaves most of the trimming to be done towards the blade, consistent with the designed taper.

 

You may notice a horizontal line that looks like a “glue line.”  It isn’t.  The line was scored on the centerline  of all 4 sides of the original 2” x 2” stock — as a guide for 8-siding (and rounding).  As tapering progressed, the scoring was redone to keep it visible.

 

One nice accidental of the scarfing is that the oars will be a little lighter outboard of the locks.

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