JohnAsa Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 I finished skinning my Ravenswood, and turned it over to find that the keel, bow and stern ended up twisted to one side. Almost 4-5 inches at the bow. going to get new fabric and and start over. What do I need to do in order to ensure I don't get that twisting? Do I need to re-tie my joints? Any other suggestions for ensuring the frame stays straight? I am using the double-corded stitch, and I fear that maybe I am giving too much space on one side causing a twist. I know this method creates tremendous force on the frame (causing gunwales to bend inwards). I'm looking for ideas before I start to skin again. (this is my 2nd boat) thanks! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayak_building_with_fir Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 Hi! Sorry to hear of your troubles. I am struggling also with a twisted frame as well, but I haven't skinned the boat yet. Was the frame straight before you skinned it? If so, I would guess that when tensioning the fabric one side was pulled tighter than the other, did you notice anything like this? What did you use for skinning? Polyester can be tightened with a hot iron. If you think about it where the twist is coming from, maybe you can counteract this force by tightening on the opposite side? There is also this skinning technique, where the skin is tightened with some tightening sews and only then is sewed shut. If you you in with direction to apply the counteracting force, this could be applied? Just thinking out loud, hope it helps Keep us updated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnAsa Posted October 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2020 Hey thanks for the idea. I decided to remove the skin and get new fabric. I'm using the 9 oz. polyester, which worked great on my FreeB-12. Here is what I'm going to change. First of all, I re-installed the brackets on my strong back and ensured that the frame was straight using a string suspended above on the centerline. Next, I removed the sinew on the bow plate, made sure that the gunwale and stringers are as flat as possible, then re-attached with sinew. THEN I put in a 1/4-inch dowel at the point there the gunwale joins the bow plate. I plan to do the same where the stringer attaches. My objective is to ensure that these don't shift when I'm sewing the skin. Next, when I get the new skin, I will use something to ensure that my amount of stretch is consistent on the port and starboard so that tension is consistent. I'm hoping this will work. Will keep posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayak_building_with_fir Posted May 24, 2021 Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 Hi John, did you manage to fix it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yankee Dog Posted May 26, 2021 Report Share Posted May 26, 2021 4-5 inches in a lot!!! Check your alignment without the strong back to see what your boat wants to do without the braces in place. Make your adjustments then. When you drape the fabric draw a line with a pencil down the keel. Keep an eye on t as you skin to ensure you are not pulling excessively to one side or the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted May 26, 2021 Report Share Posted May 26, 2021 5 hours ago, Yankee Dog said: When you drape the fabric draw a line with a pencil down the keel. Keep an eye on t as you skin to ensure you are not pulling excessively to one side or the other. I tacked my cloth to the keel very 6" or so with thumb tacks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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