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Lapwing 16 Build


Murray

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On 5/1/2023 at 12:51 PM, Don Silsbe said:

Image IMG 2479 will not appear for me.

 

EVERYTHING— every wooden surface is coated with three coats of epoxy.  Two, at the very minimum.  This makes your boat an epoxy/fiberglass boat with a wooden substrate.  

 

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Not sure these pictures are loading correctly... if not, 2490 is a flush trim bit at work. I haven't used one before, but they sure make short work of trimming the seat edges. 

 

Filleting done. I haven't yet put the front seats down yet - I was vaguely toying with running control lines for the main (vang and downhaul) under the seats then back up so close to hand. Pros and cons, but maybe better to do that under the side decks, rather than puncture holes in the floatation compartment...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well this is still progressing slowly...

 

Seating glued down and resin fill coated. This was a bit of an experiment since the ply was pretty rough on the surface, I've tried filling it with a 33% addition of 414 filler. Quite a bit of sanding required but now the surface is smooth. And the controversial booms cut to length. I had a spare RS Aero boom from when I was sailing them. Very light, stiff, with rope securing all fittings. I found a second boom for the mizzen - also an Aero unit. Sorry B&B - not the way you recommend, but...

 

Does highlight the foredeck leaving only a very shallow angle for an effective vang system. Probably sufficient - as long as there is not too much wind, maybe an excuse to see if I can rig up a Gnav system. (Vang but upside down - yes a strut on a carriage secured to the top of the boom, t'other end attached to the side of the mast. A rope pulling the carriage toward the mast will force the boom down. Sounds a bit like a sprit did I hear you say....? No such issues with the mizzen.

 

Really just the carlins to set in place then the decks can be installed. I've got a bit of Jarrah I've cut into strips so I can laminate a gunwale and a decorative rubbing strip at the bottom edge of the #8 strake. Hatches to complete, but now I'm this far along, I'll order sails on Monday - and a trailer.

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On 5/21/2023 at 3:55 PM, Kennneee said:

Looks great Murray.  Why did you decide to go with a different rig?

 Good question Ken......! I guess I'm a stubborn old guy who has fixed ideas about rigs. I've sailed cats with wishbones, windsurfers with wishbones, keelboats with all sorts of boom configurations, racing dinghies with booms, and a number of racing days on a Hobie which has no boom at all. Years ago I sailed OPTI's which have a sprit, and I freely admit I couldn't tell the difference in speed one tack to the other. I even tried a windsurfer with a single sprit, and the sail cut into two pieces; one above and one below the boom. That was a terrible experiment. In all of the sailing I've done, it's always been performance oriented, and in all of it, I've found booms are good. True, when they hit you on the head, it can be unpleasant; the bigger the boat, the more unpleasant it becomes. But they allow great sail control. Even the cat with wishbones was interesting in that we ended up putting a vang system on it so we could get sufficient leech tension. Without, it looked like the Hobie with massive twist in the sail which creates drag and makes control difficult. 

 

With the Lapwing, the sails are small so you can probably get sufficient leech tension by using a sprit reasonably easily. And there are those who argue that the sprit does not make a noticeable difference to performance - especially in a cruising type of craft. I accept that a sprit  has advantages in an application like the Lapwing, but as a guy who in a previous life made hundreds and hundreds of windsurfing sails, and many sails for land yachts and various Moths, everything was geared to making the most efficient sail, the easiest to control sail and the fastest sail possible. And in my experience, that's booms. So it's just something I had to do.

 

And I freely acknowledge that a Lapwing provides 'sparkling' performance, rather that the ultimate racing dinghy performance - hell - witness the 'brake' in the bottom two planks; the garboard and the next plank trap water and force it through a narrower slot as it gets towards the stern - acting like a brake. I acknowledge I have much to learn about cruising boats, slowing down and enjoying the ride, but now retired, I didn't feel ready to look up and see a sprit and feel good inside. Oh, and I had spare booms...! 

 

I am using a sail plan very similar to standard, I'll just put slightly different seam shaping in and since the masts are stiff carbon - I'll use a little less luff round - especially at the head. Why carbon masts?  Well I had them in the loft too (experimental carbon masts for Lasers) so rather than use my stock of Alaskan yellow cedar on making masts, I thought maybe I should keep that for my next boat...? Sorry that's a long winded reply, but while your question is simple, the answers were not. At least, not for me.

 

 

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Murray- It sounds like you know what you are doing and know what you want.  That is the right combination to make changes in a project.  This is YOUR boat and in the end it will be how you want it to be.  Your knowledge of sails and rigging is clearly higher than many of us on the forum, or at least mine.  

Thanks for the detailed answer.  Looking forward to seeing her fly along the water. Enjoy!  Ken

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On 5/22/2023 at 12:48 AM, Murray said:

With the Lapwing, the sails are small so you can probably get sufficient leech tension by using a sprit reasonably easily. And there are those who argue that the sprit does not make a noticeable difference to performance

 

I took a design of experiments class once.  The teacher told us to write down our expected results before we ran the experiment.  If the results weren’t in line with our expected results, we should consider the results as “learning”.  I suggest that you do the same.  You might learn something.  From what you said, you sort of already admit it.

 

My wife loves the high sprit, since it doesn’t come close to her head.  She says my cat ketch is the best boat I’ve ever had.

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On 5/24/2023 at 8:22 AM, Don Silsbe said:

 

I took a design of experiments class once.  The teacher told us to write down our expected results before we ran the experiment.  If the results weren’t in line with our expected results, we should consider the results as “learning”.  I suggest that you do the same.  You might learn something.  From what you said, you sort of already admit it.

 

My wife loves the high sprit, since it doesn’t come close to her head.  She says my cat ketch is the best boat I’ve ever had.

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Your wife is probably right - at least for you...! One of the things I appreciate on this site is the honest, direct comments made. And I consider them carefully - thus the three 'Silsbies' now installed. @hirilonde has had many useful things to say too. I guess I could try and set up a jury rigged sprit and see what I think - just a question of time - something I may not have as much of as I expected. So I'll start with what I know, and keep an open mind. Cheers Don.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Progress continues on the boat. But suddenly there are 'off-site' issues to consider; fittings, mast base plugs, sails - so actually a lot of progress has been made, only so much to see... And now, with great sadness, starting two weeks holiday in Fiji.... Nothing against Fiji, just I want to actually finish and get on the water...

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On 6/10/2023 at 9:09 PM, Hirilonde said:

Are you doiing the sheer strake bright?

The end does come, just not as quickly as we may like. Keep paying attention to the details.

There is a lot of the Devil in the details... Sheer strake will be inky blue, with Jarrah gunwale and bump strip along the bottom of the sheer strake. Too much filler on that strake to go bright. Now my mate across the road says the deck should be bright (was planning to that) but it needs to be dark - like a Mahogany ply. I've already cut the deck panels out of current ply stocks, so it would be wasting ply, but I've tried staining the current ply a dark colour too and it's not a convincing result. Then there is the issue of the transom being a bit 'yellow' in colour but with three coat of resin on it - do I just ignore it or put another false transom over the top? Or paint it white? Or....

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Murray- Lot’s of room for angst and creativity.  She will be beautiful.  I went round and round on what I wanted to do with my transom.  Found a scrap piece of WRC and resawed it into 1/4” book matched panels and glued it on the existing transom.  I like the result.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/15/2023 at 1:39 PM, Kennneee said:

Murray- Lot’s of room for angst and creativity.  She will be beautiful.  I went round and round on what I wanted to do with my transom.  Found a scrap piece of WRC and resawed it into 1/4” book matched panels and glued it on the existing transom.  I like the result.

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WRC - assume that is Red Cedar Ken? Certainly a great result. I'll have to look up book matched panels to see how this is done. Meantime I'm thinking of going cheap and painting the transom white, running just a vertical strip of maybe Jarrah as pretend runner support, maybe a cap on the transom in Jarrah as well so it hopefully ties together. There will still be paint/timber contrast. Sanding back the resin on the transom brings the fear of going through the outer skin of ply, and as noted, timber stains I've tried (so far) are not convincing. 

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Murray-Yes, WRC is western red cedar.  I think paint with contrasting wood accents is a really nice way to go.  It can be a clean and elegant look.  Sometimes us wood lovers can overdue it and would be better off with more simplicity. Not to mention the added upkeep of bright finishes.  There are so many options. Follow your muse and you will be happy.  Looking forward to seeing the end result.  

Cheers,

Ken

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