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Lapwing 16 Build


Murray

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On 2/11/2023 at 3:19 PM, Hirilonde said:

I have done much the same as Don.  Grab my cooler with ice and drinks, maybe some snacks, and off I go. Everything else was stored and ready to go. Even added a drawer under the center thwart/partner for the small stuff.

@Hirilonde Dave can you share a pic of the drawer you put in? Sounds like a very good idea.

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@Murray this is my drawer.............

 

It uses a simple U channel on each side, into which a square slide attached to either side of the drawer fits.  I used teak for both piece and just oiled it to slide easily.  The drawer has a small hole in each corner of the bottom to drain rain water when left outside. I added a toggle to hold it closed. In a capsize, it will stay above water, so good for cell phones, electronic car keys etc..

 

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On 3/30/2023 at 8:00 PM, Murray said:

@Don Silsbe you knew it was laziness..! OK - I'll ponder it a little more. Certainly a lot easier to do it now than later.

 

OK @Don Silsbe - I'm taking your advice - outside coamings are now gluing up. Just for fun, I made them out of scrap 1/4" ply, 3 layers, with the inside layer 1/4" deeper so thwarts/seats can be set against them, while lying on top of the other two layers. Not sure I'll actually use this idea, but if I don't like it, I can cut the extra off... The rest of the bits are cut out ready to assemble. I knew it was a fiddly little job!

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7 hours ago, Hirilonde said:

@Murray this is my drawer.............

 

It uses a simple U channel on each side, into which a square slide attached to either side of the drawer fits.  I used teak for both piece and just oiled it to slide easily.  The drawer has a small hole in each corner of the bottom to drain rain water when left outside. I added a toggle to hold it closed. In a capsize, it will stay above water, so good for cell phones, electronic car keys etc..

 

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Thanks Dave - looks a great idea. Nice detailing work around the compass - can you send a shot of that too please?

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On 4/7/2023 at 3:13 AM, Don Silsbe said:

@Murray  Sometimes we all need a little nudge.  Happy to oblige.  Yeah, it’s a fiddly-bit sort of task.  The challenge to me was ensuring that I had an even gap around the sealing shut face.  

Don can you explain that - I assume you are saying it's difficult to get the front face of the hatch (not the seat top) evenly spaced around the longitudinal stringers? Is that correct? If yes, what is the difficulty?

 

Speaking of hatches, I see in the plans, the front of the side hatches is around 130mm back  from the rear of the centreboard thwart. Looking at the centre of buoyancy - I assume you sit right about there sailing single handed? So in the opinion of those who own a Lapwing, is there a better position for the hatches so you are not sitting on the piano hinge? 

 

meantime really important decisions are to be made.... name! many folk in NZ call their craft after Maori names. We don't have a truely native lapwing in NZ, but I'm heading towards Manurere (Man-you-rary) which is a general term for flying birds...

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Murray- I wouldn’t worry about the hatch positions.  I placed them according to plan and they have never been any kind of obstacle to being comfortable.  I think you will find that the hinges are far enough away from the centerline of the boat that your butt will never notice them.  

I have had Lula out several times in the last 2 weeks and love the boat more every time I sail her.  I would describe her performance as well behaved without being boring.  I have not had her out in heavy winds, mostly 10-15 knots. She is responsive, well balanced and by no means overly tender.  Took out my young friends (Excitement At The Launch Ramp) yesterday and had my best sail yet. I wanted them to have a better experience than our last trip together and I would say the mission was accomplished.  Lovely beam reaches, a few controlled jibes and some some short tacking to weather.  Pure fun.  So, get those hatches done and get ready to enjoy the fruits of your labour!

Sadly Lula will be stored away for the next 6 months as we are heading home to BC and leaving her in San Diego until we return next Winter.  Can’t whine too much as Rosie is waiting for some fun trips in the Salish Sea. Oh, and starting “my last boat build”.  A double surfski.

Ken

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Well the first of the Silsbes is glued in - spot the deliberate mistake anyone? image.thumb.jpeg.5c26df0831559d2b3116d8d2766b385e.jpeg

 

I decided rather than having the support arms for the Silsbes going aft to the transom, there's a much large gluing surface with the support arm going athwartship, and the rebate in the longitudinal ply bulkheads is very secure and able to take some weight. I can't see any downside - so - done!  

 

Ken I like your priorities - I'm looking forward to completing this project and getting on the water.

 

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I agree with Kennee, that the location of these “Silsbes” (funny) is not that critical.  I like them to be such that I can reach to both ends of the compartment below.

 

I’m not talking about the front face.  I’m talking about the sealing surface between the underside of the lid and that inner rim of the assembly shown in your photos.  There needs to be a constant gap equal to about 1/2 the thickness* of the gasket foam you intend to use.  I used a 3/8” (10mm?) thick foam seal, so my gap is an even 3/16” (5mm).  The way I got this was by making my rims flush with the rest of the assembly, setting my router’s depth to 3/16”, and running it around the rim.  I’ve attempted to mark up one of your photos, to explain what I mean.  The black squiggly line is mine.  Hope this helps.
 

* An assumption on my part.  I don’t see this specified on the plans, which I have not reviewed in a long time.

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11 hours ago, Don Silsbe said:

I agree with Kennee, that the location of these “Silsbes” (funny) is not that critical.  I like them to be such that I can reach to both ends of the compartment below.

 

I’m not talking about the front face.  I’m talking about the sealing surface between the underside of the lid and that inner rim of the assembly shown in your photos.  There needs to be a constant gap equal to about 1/2 the thickness* of the gasket foam you intend to use.  I used a 3/8” (10mm?) thick foam seal, so my gap is an even 3/16” (5mm).  The way I got this was by making my rims flush with the rest of the assembly, setting my router’s depth to 3/16”, and running it around the rim.  I’ve attempted to mark up one of your photos, to explain what I mean.  The black squiggly line is mine.  Hope this helps.
 

* An assumption on my part.  I don’t see this specified on the plans, which I have not reviewed in a long time.

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Got it thanks. I guess the thicker the gasket material the better. I've got 3mm lying around but 10 would certainly be a lot more forgiving. Thanks Don.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I wrote quite a little section on the 'Silsbes' - I thought it useful to add a Wikipedia entry describing the 'Silsbe' as the framework for a self draining hatch. It seemed easy but after a little while I thought it was quite a lot more complicated than I imagined and so I had a beer instead. 

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Next step I'll resin the underside of the seats, fix them in and get out a flush trim bit to clean up the edges. Then - well to quote @hirlonde - a whole lot more; decks, mast steps, hatch covers, sanding, a wee bit more sanding, paint, but I think I can see a boat emerging...

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